Bellefonte, Pa., Sept. 2, 1892 THE COMING MAN. A pair of very chubby legs, nceased in scarlet hose ; A pair of little chubby boots, ith rather doubtful toes; A little kilt, a little coat— Cut as a mother can— And lo! before us stands in state The future’s coming man His eyes, perchance, will read the stars, And search their unknown ways : Perchance the human heart and soul * Will open to their graze; Perchance their keen and flashing glance Will be a nation’s light Those eyes that now are wistful bent On some big fellow’s kite. Those hands—those busy little hands— So sticky, small and brown ; Those hands whose only mission seems To pull all order down— Who knows what hidden strength may be Hidden within their clasp, Though now ’tis but a tafty stick In sturdy hold they grasp. Ah, blessings on these little hands, ‘Whose work is yet undone ! And blessings on those little feet, Whose race is yet unrun! And blessings on the little brain ! That has not learned to plan ! Whate’er the future holds in store, God bless the coming man ! ANARCHISTS IN NEW YORK. BY JNO. GILMER EPEED. . “To kill a czar, an emperor, or king is nothing more than murder. That is not the way to emancipate Europe. You kill a king, and his son or broth- er or nephew is crowned, and rules in his stead, and no progress has been made. That is not the way to do it. The proper way would be to wipe out all of the ruling families—to execute them all to the remotest euds of the lines. This having been done, there would be no one left to take the thrones by divine right, and the people could take charge of their own affairs. Kill- ing one or two or three men does no good whatever, and is only murder, but to remove the few thousand royalties by killing them would be revolution, warfare, and that, too, of a most hn- mane kind. In some way or another the dethronement of the kings has got to take place, aud that very soon. It will probably occur during a general European war, in which tens of thou- sands of men will be killed, and other tens of chousands wounded and disabled for life. This war will be waged to Derpenas the tottering thrones. Now ow much more humane it would be to kill all these royalties, and prevent the killing of the fifty times as many peo- ple who will be destroyed in such a war! A man is a man, and the life of a king is not more sacred than that of a peasant. So my theory as to the best reformatory method of procedure is to kill all the &ings and members of royal families, to sacrifice them on the altar | of progress, and then see what we shall see.” “Do many other anarchists agree. with you in these views?” I asked. “Bless your soul, my dear sir, I am ‘not an anarchist!” said the young man to whom I was talking. anarchist; I am a socialist; a socialist of the mildest type. And he looked hurt that he should have been misun- derstood. This conversation took place in a lit- tle job-priating office down town, and the young man who advocates the kill- ing of kings is the foreman, He is a good-looking yoang fellow, with clean- cut features, and a mild kindly blue eye. His manners are gentle, and his voice low, and he was clean and fresh- looking, with the exception of his hands which were soiled by lifting wet type. I had been told that he was a leader among the anarchists, and the most in- telligent of the lot. So to him I went first in my examination as to the aum- ber and the sentiments of the anar- chists in New York. “Your idea seems to be,” I contin- ued, “that 1f the kingdoms of Europe could be converted into republics, that then all social wrongs will be righted 2” “Yes,” he responded, “provided there be such absolate home-rule that each .community shall be permitted to gov- ern itself, and each individual have op- portunity to.develop on natural lines.” “Why should the eocialists of your type, if they be working 10 convert the European kingdoms into republics, be dissatisfied with the social conditions in the United States?’ “Because,” said he, and now his blue eyes kindled and his cheeks paled— “because this is only a republic in name, because there is no home rule, and because the laws are nade not on- ly for the poor and the hard-working, but for the rich and the idle. Your American capitalist is just as much of a king and tyrant as any of those who wear crowns ia Europe.” These social reformers, it may be said just here, are divided into various general parties, each general party be- ing subdivided into smaller groups. The general parties.are anarchists, ni- hilists, and socialists. The anarchists are all socialists, but there are so many groups of them that i is impossible to classify them without taking an ex- haustive census of them all. If this were done, I fancy that it would show that the average number of each group was about ten. Some of the groups, to be sure, are very much larger than this, but others are much smaller, until we get to the autonomists, where each man flecks by himself, and is a group all alone. All anarchists are followers of Proudhon, and their creed may be found in his famous paradox: “Gov- ernment of man by man in every form isoppresion. The highest perfection of society is found in the union of order aad anarchy.” The nihilists are all Russiane, and it is a nickname applied tothe Russian Soeial Reform party. Tourguenief first used the word in his novel Fathérs and Children to describe a certain type of character, which he contrasted sharp- ly and effectively with the prevailing types in the generation which in 1865 was passing from thestage. The word was soon caught up by the conserva tives and by the government in Russia, “] am not an | such place, even p 3 and was applied indiscriminately by | them as an opprobrious and discredit- ing nickname 2 all persons who were not satisfied with the existing order of things, and who sought by any active method whatever to bring about chan- ges in Russian social and political or- ganization. Nihilists, therefore, as well as I can make out, are also anar- chists so far as Russia is concerned ; but they do not necessarily wish to ap- ply, or see any necessity for applying, avarchistic methods universally and all over the world. Of those in New York nearly all are Jews, who have been compelled toleave the dominions of the Czar not so much because they nihilists but because they were Jews. The more radical of the nihilists pro- fess a total disbelief in religion, morali- ty, law, aod order, and—as James Freeman Clarke said in his Ten Great Religions of the World—to them “God is nothing, man is nothing, life is noth- ing, eternity is nothing.” Then we have the milder form of re- formers, the socialists. Socialists very generally sympathize with the anar- chists and the nihilists—more with the latter than the former, but they usually hold that the methods that these two classes advocate and sometimes prac tice are too radical and also ineffectual. The great majority of the socialists in New York, asin other parts of Amer- ica, are foreign born, there being among them at least forty-nine foreign- ers to one native. They are all “com- munists,” and Professor Ely, in his work on French and German Socialism, says: “All communists without excep- tion propose that the people as a whole, or some particular division of the peo- ple, as a villnge or commune, should own all the means of production—land, houses, factories, railroads, canals, etc.; that production should be carried on in common ; and that officers selected in one way ov another should distrib- ute among the inhabitants the fruits of their labor.” When I started out to visit these people they were all very much excited on account of the attempted assassina- tion of Mr. Henry Frick in Pittsburg by the young Russian Jew Berkman, who helougs to the autonomist group of anarchists in New York. which Jo- seph Peukert, the editor of Der Anar- chist, i3 the leader. The addresses of various places where anarchists public- ly consort had been given to me by the socialist of king-killing proclivities. These I visited casually, merely to take a preliminary view of them, and in these first visits my first impression was confirmed, that I could learn noth- ing of the men and women belonging to the groups, and get only brief speech of them, by simply asking them to talk with me. At the office of Der Freheit, of which John Most is the editor and proprietor. I found that the paper tor the week had gone to press, and the ed- itor, released from his labors, had re- tired from public view. It was easy, however, to arrange to meet him later on. What struck me in this first visit was the reverential way in which the men about the office spoke of Most. It was evident that they thought him a great man, and told with great pride of how, when he wrote his bla- tant nonsense that he calls editorials, he kept himself up to the mark by quaffing great draughts of black coffee strengthened by brandy. It did not seem to them that this fact was in some sense a confirmation of the charge made by the anarchists of other groups that Most was a coward, and needed at all times to be supplied with artifi- cial, or what is generally known as “Dutch,”courage. There are no evi- dences of prosperity in the litile den that serves as editorial and composing room and counting. room as well. The two or three men at the cases looked much as other printers do, though it was evident that they were Germans. From there I went in search of Peu- ker(’s office, but this I did not find, for the very good reasoa that there is no though there may have been. I had two addresses, one in Division Street and another in' Canal, but he was at neither of these places, and I suspect that he carries his office in his hat, and has his printing done at some obscure job office. But it was easy enough to see Peu- kert himself, for he spends much the larger part of his time in a narrow, dark, and dingy barroom in Fifth Street, just east of the Bowery. This place is known to the police as “Tough Mike's,” and the sign in white letters on the window reads “Zum Groben Mi- chel.” This is the basement under a tenement house, and there are two rooms. The bar is on one ¢ide of the front room. In front of it is a large ta- ble, at which men were drinking beer, and on which was a zither and a man thumping out the ‘‘Marseillaige.” “See,” said a drunken German, as I entered, and speaking to me in his na- tive tongue,” many men have been hanged for singing the ‘Marseillaise,’ but this man plays it for five cents.” Beyond the table was a reading desk, upon which were files of anarchistic papers, and above them portraits of the anarchists who have been executed for their crimes, among them being those executed in Chicago for throwing dynamite bombs in the Haymarket several years ago. Just beyond the bar, the tables, and the reading-stand was a pool table stretching nearly across the room, and leaviag scant, space at either hand for the handling of a cue. Several men stood about this table with cues in their hands, but they ceased playing when I eatered. One of these was Peukert. and he watched me in a sly and nervous way as long as I remained in the place. Be- yond the pool table was a smaller room, and in the centre of this was a table at which half a dozen men sat drinking beer out of those large glasses known on the Bowery, I believe, as schooners. And still beyond, at a small table, and next to a window that looked out into This was Emma Goldman, the anar- chist wife of Berkman, who tried to kill Mr. Frick. I mention the things I saw in this bar-room thus minutely because it is the one place in New York where avowed anarchists meet without disguise. It is a loathsome place in itself, and there is one thing very certain, that these rabid reform- ers who are trying to disturb the seren- ity of all existing society are not hav- ing much fun while they are about it. The men were shabby, and from the appearance of their hands not unac- quainted with hard labor. It was ear- ly in the afternoon when I made my first visit, so it was only fair to con- clude that the men then in “Tough Mike's” were out of employment. Be- fore my presence was noted, they were talking wildly, nearly all at once, after the manner of Germans laboring under excitement; but when I was seen, the hubbub ceased, and only harsh whis- pers could be heard. To my requests to talk to some of his guests or to himself, the ill-shapen giant behind the bar had but] one re- ply to make—‘“It is not necessary.” Peukert leaned on his billiard cue and watched, evidently approving of “Tough Mike’s” determination not to speak more than four words—*It is not nec- essary.”” This was discouraging, so I abandoned the effort to get informa- tion there at that time, and went to half a dozen other places said to be the re- sorts of anarchists. There was a little restaurant in Division Street at which I was told that many of the Jewish an- archists fed. The proprietor met me very politely, and I had difficulty in escaping his frank volubility., He said he kept an eating house, and did not ask a man who wanted to buy a steak or a cup of coffee what his relig- ious or political opinions were, and he did not care so long as the customer had money to pay for his meals. Berk- man had been one of his customers like the rest, and had been there once, twice, maybe forty times, but he came there to eat, not to talk anarchism. Sitting around the restaurant were a dozen or more young men who listened intent- ly to what the proprietor was saying. If there to eat, they had either finished gome time or not made up their minds what to order, for there was no evidence of either past or prospective meals to be seen on the tables. The exceeding frankness of the proprietor was as baf- fling as “Tough Mike's” taciturnity. From Division Street I went to Jus- tus Schwab’s beer-saloon, east of Second Avenue. This place was de- serted of all save the bar-keeperand one rather cheap and flaghily dressed Jew. Schwab, I was told was out of town, and would not be back till the next day The bar-keeper had evidently taken advantage of his master’s absence to celebrate himself in unlimited beer,and he was in good-humor with all the world. He told me that ‘lots of anar- chists come here’; and then he added, “Dat’s where Schwab make all his money.” From what I learned at a subsequent visit in the evening, I am persuaded that Schwab's’ beery bar- keeper spoke the truth only to a cer- tain extent. There are a lot of ncisy and foolish fellows who go to Schwab's to drink beer and celebrate liberal ideas, but they are not practical anar- chists by any means. They are looked upon with scorn by the more radical customers of “Tough Mike.” Schwab makes it pleasant for his patrons and gives them music in the evening. He is a thrifty saloon-keeper, and would probably be ready to assist in any social or political movement that would send him a more profitable set of custo- mers. As it is, he has done very well, for, while advocating that the owner: ship of property was a crime in an in- dividual, he has become a man of sub- stance, and laid by a pretty little fortune. 1 had always had anidea that I could get valuable assistance from the dectives of the Police Department. In- spector Steers, the Chiet of the Detec- tive Bureau, was most polite when I ~called, but regretted that he could not assist me either personally or officially. It was against the policy of the de- partment, he said, in the treatment of this subject, to encourage any publi- cation of what or how much the de- partment knew in regard to the anar- chists in New York. He acknowledg- ed that they were kept under constant surveillance, just as other dangerous classes are, and the department was ready and able to take all the leaders into custody whenever it was necessary to doso. Further than this he would say nothing. From another officia! of the department I learned that, in h's opinion, the addresses that had been given to me as to anarchist meeting- places were correct. He was sure that the one and only place that I could get anything of interest was “Tough Mike’s.” That was not an attractive nor inviting place to study, so before going further I tried another scheme. I had once met a gentlemen who had been interested in the labor movement conducted by Powderly and others, I called on him, and asked if he could not get me safe-conduct within the lines of ttiese people. Nothing could be easier he said ; he would have a little dinner, and I could then meet the leaders, and through them such others as I chose. “But,” said he, “I will invite these men to meet you on condition that what is then eaid shall be privileged and sacred,” I readily gave him the assurance he desired, and he at onee set about arranging the dinner for the Bext evening in a rather attractive little summer garden in Seventeenth Street near Third Avenue. The next afternoon I was disappointed to learn from the gentlemen arranging the din- ner that several of the most prominent of the leaders had declined nis invita- tion because they did not care to meet some of the other guests, Each time that he invited a man, he told me, he had to exhibit his invitation list, and a small dark court-yard, sat a young woman who, had she not seemed so en- tirely at home, would haye appeared | out of place with such surroundings. She was reading a book, with a glass of beer by the side of it on the table. if there were any names on the list not to the liking of the examiner, a condi- tion of his acceptance was that the objectionable name should be striken off. This is the way royalties actin Europe, [ am told. The consequence of the numerous objections was a con- siderably reduced list, and when we sat down to dinner there were only seven present besides our host and myself, I am sure I may be allowed to say, with- out any breach of my host’s injunction, that his guests were a queer and in- teresting lot. Two were very much of the same type of men we see selling shoe laces on Broadway ; three were heavily bearded Germans, who looked as though they might have come from behind east side bars ; one was a fair- haired and spectacled young Russian Jew ; and the seventh was the blue- eyed compositor who believed that the regeneration of the world should begin by killing all the kings and royal families in Europe, At the beginning all were very con- strained. They seemed suspicious of one another, and particularly of me, But with the food and drink they warmed up, and before the coffee was served it was a very noisy and animat- ed group. They did not talk anarchy exactly, but they railed against what they thought existing abuses. Nor did they talk of the means by which they pro- posed to make chaos come again so that these abuses might stop, but each man had a more or less indefinite idea of how order was to be brought from this chaos, so that the dream of Proud- hon might be realized, and the highest social perfection be attained by means of “the union of order and anarchy.” As T had not the privilege of reporting the talk at the dinner, I made arrange- ments to meet several of those present next day, and the fair-baired young Russian Jew volunteered to introduce me to Peukert and Emma Goldman. This was what I wished above all things. I had heard both of them speak in public, but they were on pa- rade then, and seemed to be merely talking for effect. The dinner served one good purpose, for I was convinced that these people were entirely sincere and honest. There are among the avowed anarchists in New York a few men like Schwab, who are anarchists for revenue only, and a few, perhaps, like Most, who are cowards at heart, and have a wholesme fear of the law; but the rank and file, the very great majority, are entirely sincere, and be- lieve that only through the enforce- ment of their notions can society ever be reformed and mankind regenerated into a uaiversal brotherhood. Upon all ordinary subjects these people talk quietly and rationally. This man is a cabinet-maker, and he will talk to you very quietly and pleasantly of his hand- icraft; that man is a fresco-painter, and he will discuss house-decoration and the art tendencies of the age with instructed intelligence. But if this one topic of social reform be broached, both are changed men at once. They be- come angry, and talk incomprehensi- ble nonsense. Any one who has ever visited an insane asylum will know what I mean. In an institution of that kind you may see a quiet, mother- ly-looking woman placidly sewing. You talk with her about her work, and she seems full of homely intelligence, but of a sudden there 1s a change. She is no longer the quiet matron with ten- der memories of a happy home. She is Mary Queen of Scots, overcome with grief, or perhaps she is Cleopatra, or Helen of Troy. In such institutions quiet, dignified men are frequently seen, men courteous In manner and reasona- ble in speech until the time comes for them to be their other selves, then one whose active life has been spent in a bank parlor will think he is the Messi- ah, and another who has spent busy years as a lawyer will think that he is Julius Cesar or Napoleon Bonaparte. The day after the dinner the young Russian Jew met me by appointment, and took me to “Tough Mike's” sa- loon. I had asked for some other meeting place, bat Peukert insisted that he should meet me there or no- where. We found him in the back 100m of the saloon I have before de- scribed. Peukert is tall and slender and dark. He wears a thin black beard, thats trimmed rather short and of sparse growth en his cheeks. His nose is thin and straight, and his fore- head narrow. Above his eyes are pro- tubreances rising frem his forehead, and rawese “bumps,” together with his eyes, give to his tace what character it has. His eyes are smali and black, and ev- ery time I haye seen them they looked angry. Pzukert has probably never laughed much in a wholesome way. He is an Austrian by birth, and by trade a fresco-painter, but he works very seldom, if ever, at this trade. He was in this country once before, but about five years since he returned to Austria, and began his propaganda ‘there. He was accused of betraying a comrade, Neva, to the authorities, and it was no longer comfortabie for him to stay in Austria, So he went to Eng- land, and began there the publication of the Autonomist. About eighteen months ago he returned to America, and set about organizing the Autono- mist group of anarchists, of which he is the chief spirit. This group numbers about fifty. It is a part of the Autono- mist creed that each man and woman shall be a law unto himselfand herself, and therefore this group has no officers vested with authority. It is to this group that Berkman, the assailant of Mr. Frick, belongs. Peukert was not very genial in his greeting of me; indeed I doubt if he knows what geniality is. But he talked to me a little, which, after all, was what I wanted. He told me, in the first place, that he had the most profound con- tempt for me both in my personal and professional capacity. I made no ob- Jection to this, and did not get offend- ed, 80 he told me that this contempt was extended to all the other capital ists and tyrants and oppressors in the world. I smiled at being classed among such formidable folk, and Peu- kert, who is not every kind of a fool, saw his error, and corrected himself at - once. “I did not mean that you were a cap- italist, No; but you are worse than they. You are a bireling of those peo- | ple, a paid mercenary, a man who ns- es what little brains he has to help the tyrantcapitalists to oppress the people,” he said, and he grew more excited with each word he uttered. Having my social place now estab- lished to Mr. Peukert’s satisfaction, I hoped to make some progress in the in- terview, I asked him whether he had anticipated such an attack as that made by Berkman on Mr. Frick. “We autonomists,” he said, “do not tell each other what we mean to do. Each man is a law to himself, and when he sees his duty he does it.” “But don’t you see thetudlity of such an act as that of Berkman?’ I asked. “No; the act is not futile. When the workingmen at Homertead were ground down by the capitalists, one man elected himself the champion of the oppressed classes, and tried to lib- erate them from their slavery, not by shooting Frick, but by showing them where the source of their misery lay. I approve of the act most heartily. You paid vassals of the press cannot stop the wheels of history. The peo- ple are awakening, and they will crush you, with those who pay you, these murderers, these robbers, these capital- ists. So long as there are people who are starving there will be a Berkman, and these Berkmans will shoot without any conspiracy. We are proud of Berkman’s act. We were associated with him, but there was no conspiracy, nor can there be among the autono- mists, where each man is responsible only for himself.” As Peukert proceeded in his remarks he grew oratorical, and, as I afterwards found, what he said to me was a part of the prepared speech he had delivered at a public meeting a few nights before. I had much further talk with him, but it was like walking around iu a cir- cle; we went over the same ground time and time again, and were always getting back to the starting point. Peukert’s idea seems to be that all men who do not perform manual labor are oppressors of those who do work with their muscles, and that all persons who favor law and order are abettors of those oppressors. Indeed, he has not much of an opinion of any men but an- archists, and for some of these he has no stomach—for instance, John Most. Most has accused Peukert of being a spy on account of the Neva incident before alluded to. Hatred of Most and his group is therefore a part of the creed of Peukert and the other autono- mists. That same afternoon, and in the same place, I met Emma Goldman, who calls herself the anarchist wife of Berkman. I have been told that there is a very general belief among the New York anarchists that it was this young woman who had neryed Berkman up tosome deed that would help the cause along. She is therefore at this time a person of unusual consideration in these circles. She has for a long while been prominent among the anarchists, and it is even said that atone time she bore thesame relation to Most that she now bears to Berkman. Among the anarchists there are no binding matri- monial ties. Marriages are contracted and dissolved with entire freedom, with- out regard to the legal statutes on the subject. The Goldman woman is not bad-looking, and she seemed to have come from a higher social class, and to he better educated than the oth- ers I had met. She has chestnut brown hair that had been parted on the side and fluffed over her forehead, leaving only a trace ofthe part. At the back her hair was negligently arranged. Her head is shapely; her forehead low and white ; her eyes are of bluish-gray, and she wears glasses. Her nose is small and well shaped, and her complexion almost colorless. Her mouth is eensu- al, the lips being full, though lacking in color. Her teeth are bad, and when she talks or laughs her face loses all its comeliness. By-the-way, it is a pe- culiar fact that all the anarchists I met bad bad teeth. Emma Godman was much pleasan- ter to talk with than Peukert had been. It is evident that she wants as much advertising as she can get. She ex- lained that she was Berkman’s wife in the anarchist fashion, and also ex- plained what that fashion was. She said she was very proud of him, as he had proved his courage and devotion to the cause. What she said of the anar- chists and of Berkman’s attempt on the life of Mr. Frick was but an echo of Peukert, and is not worth repeating. Of the autonomist group of anarchists, the Goldmsn woman was the only one who did not strike me as being thoroughly sincere. I could not help thinking that she was only a very vi- cious woman, whose vice happened to lead her into this circle. Iv may be that I do her wrong, and that in reali- ty she is as mad as the rest. At any rate, she and Peukert are to-day the most influential as well as the most radical of the anarchists in New York, During the week in which I spent a great deal of my time with anarchists and socialists and in their resorts I at- tempted to make some sort of an esti- mate of their numbers. Of anarchists, avowed anarchists, I am persuaded that there are less than three hundred in New York. Probably two hundred of these are us mad as March hares, and the other third are simply fools of vicious tendencies, who have got in the channel without knowing or caring whither it led. It isimpossible to esti- mate the number of socialists, but there are many more thousands of them than ‘there are hundreds of the anarchists. — Harper's Weekly. ——Nesselrode Pudding.— Beat up the yokes of four eggs, one-half pound of sugar, and one ounce of powdered sweet almonds and add to it a quart of milk and cream mixed ; boil until thick Remove from the fire, and when cold, freeze. When frozen, remove ihe dash- er and stir in one ounce of cherries, one ounce of currants and one pound of preserved peaches. Mix well and let stand for two hours.—Ladies Home Journal. ——=Fine job work of ever discription at the Warcaman Office, The World of Women. Plaid enamel buckles go along with: fe traveling gown of and blue plaided: cloth. Spangled veils have come to the fore again, and are particularly becoming, but more trying to the eyesight. Triple ruffles are around the upper: part of sleeves of woul gowns, giving a. fuller effect from arm hold to elbow than. the Russian over sleeve. Mrs, Martha J. Coston, of Washing-- ton, is the inventor of the “Coston sig- nals,” a system of signaling with color- ed lights which is used on land and sea all around the world. Gold and silver shoe buttons are one- of the extravagances of the summer belle. They are put on with a patent fasteners, and can be easily made to do duty on several pairs of shoes. For ruchings of silk, which act as a foot frill upon the summer gowns, eau de nil and rose pink is an exquisite com: bination. The effect is very pretty when worn at the bottom of ‘a black grenadine. A Cornell girl is said to be studying veterinary surgery. Other girl students at that college are taking the course in agriculture. This course includes mod- ern languages and science, and with the desire to make it popular no tuition is demanded. Laces that are rather coarse in effect indeed those that look almost like em- broidery, are fancied on cotton gowns for shoulder capes, cuffs, panels and foot trimmings. The finer laces, those that so admirable make jabots and frills, are only liked for gowns that are count. ed somewhat elaborate or are intended for evening wear. The “stocking sachet” is the latest in the list of scented toilet accessories. It is quite a large silk bag, lined with quilted satin and havirg the odorous powder scattered with liberal hands be- tween the lining and silk. It is hung in the wardrobe and receives the stock- Ings as they come up from the wash and before they have gone to the mender. Miss Lily E. Benn, who about three years ago took up her residence in Lon- don, has interested herself greatly in the condition of the children and young girls of the East End, and has started sewing classes for girls between the ages of 9 and 13. She provides the material, pays for each garment made, and the money thus earried by the girls Miss Benn keeps for them, giving them 2d in the shilling interest as an encourage- ment for saving and allowing them to take out the money when required for a useful purpose. A woman with blue gray eyes and a thin, neutral-tinted complexion is never more becomingly dressed than in the blue shades in which gray is mixed, for in those complexions there is a certain delicate blueness. A brunette is never so exquisite as in cream color, for she has reproduced the tinting of her skin in her dress. Women who have rather florid complexions look well in various shades of dove-gray, for to a trained eye this color has a tinge of pink which harmonizes with the flesh of the face. Blondes look fairer and younger in dead black, like that of wool goods or velvet, while the brunettes require the sheen of satin or gloss of silk in order to to wear black to advantage. The so-called Cleopatra girdle, which resembles the fillet of the Egyptian Queen only that it is a band around the head, seems to have jumped into some popularity. It was seen at all fashiona- ble London social events of the season, scarcely a woman being without the roll of ribbon or velvet about her head, with the pointed ends standing up in front. It is equally common on this side of the water, finishing the pretty toilets of the summer resorts and suburban loiter- ers. The modern belle has turned the bandeau around since Cleopatra’s time. The dark-eyed beauty wore it about her classic head, with the stiff points above the nape of her neck and they pointed across rather than up and down, if we may credit the old coins still extant with her counterfeit presentment. No matter how much the maiden of fifteen may long to wear a tea-gown with a sweeping train and flowing sleeves, she must wait a few years before indulging in the luxury. In the mean time she can wear a substitute tea-gown one which is more in sympathy with her girlish face. An attractive dress of this description is of scarlet French Henrietta cloth. It is made all in one. There is a square yoke both in the front and back of the dress made of black silk passementerie, through which is interwoven a gilt thread. The straight collar is fastened at the back with a rosette of black rib- bon. From the yoke the dress falls in in loose, graceful folds held in place at the waist line by means ot a black rib- bon belt. The scarlet Henrietta cloth sleeves have an over-hanging puff fin- ished with the conventional tight-fitting cuff of the black ‘and gold passemen- terie. For the early fall these girlish house gowns are made up effectively in sub- dued shades of crape cloth, with yok- and cuff of point de gene or point d’Tre- land lace. The girls are already beginning to realize that in a few weeks they will have to relinquish the soft, flowing fab- rics which carry with them such a witchery of charm, and robe themselves in heavy, unaesthetic cloths. One thing, however, they refuse to abandon, and that is the ‘““white’’ toilet which has heen the daintiest and most distinctive feature of the season. Yes, white is bound to be the modish tone for autumn wear, and a change of material is all that is anticipated. In place of the broad brimmed straws, covered with blossoms, the society maiden will top her tresses with a be- witching sott, white felt affair, coquet- ishly bound with white satin ribbon or velvet ; a white serge gown will carry with it the nobbiest of jackets, with wide rolling revers of white corduroy ; the long silk gloves which have wrin- kled over the pink, rounded arm, are to be replaced by the finest of suede, and and feet which are shod as if for the ball will continue to give a finishing touch to this vagary in costuming, A white boa in a very heavy lace may be wound, at will, about the throat of the gown, and allowed to fall down the front of the skirt.