Democratic watchman. (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1855-1940, June 03, 1892, Image 2
A a okie RE TNE YS RT FEY TMI SFET: RD CTE ER RAS) Denna Bellefonte, Pa., June 3, 1892. HELD CAPTIVE, Never shall I forget the dsy We rode in the car together, And I sat down while she stood up, And the passengers wondered whether. ‘Whether, as she looked down at me And smiled aud bowed so cheery, I was a fool to keep my seat Or only a trifle weary. I see her face—'twas a Frey face— And the smile that slowly faded : When some woman whispered at my side, “Well, that fellow must be jaded.” But what could I do for her who held A place in my memory tender ? For just as I'd taken my seat, alas ! I'd broken my old suspender. Clothier and Furnisher. THE STORY OF DOROTHY, “The sins of the parents are visited upon the children, even unto the third and fourth generation.” As I write the words unbidden tears spring to my eyes, a feeling of pain tightens about my heart. I wander back through the paths of memory, that thing is both a blessing and a curse to mankind, and again I smell the faint, sweet perfume from the clover fields, again I sez Doro- thy as I saw her in the summer days s0 long ago. Dorothy, in the hey-dey of her youth, who stood on the gallery of the old-fashioned Southern house, looking with joyous eyes over the gar- den where a wilderness of roses and sheaves of lilies filled the air with an all-pervading sweetness that seemed to creep 1nto the senses and make life, even the mere factof breathing, a pleas- ure. Dorothy was a singularly lovely girl of nineteen, with a slight figure of me- dium height, beautifully moulded. Her gray eyes, under their long, curlin black lashes, had a look of child-like frankness which her loosely curling hair and sweet red lips intensified. The vague touch of sadness that underlay her manner but lent her an additional charm. It was little wonder that Herod Rod- man loved the girl, proud and selfish though he was. Some people’s names fit them, and some do not. Herod Rodman looked a very king. His fig- ure was of perfect proportions, and he carried his well-set head as proudly as any Herod of old could have done. His tace was handsome; but the feat- ures, clear cut and regular, had, a stern expression, and the blue eyes were al- most steel-like in their brillianey. Rich, handsome, highly educated, at thirty.two, atter traveling extensive- ly, he returned to America and drifted by mere chance to the little Southern town where Dorothy Fowler lived with her half-brother and his wife. They soon met. Every one knew every one else in this place, with its one strag- gling street. Public improvements were unknown to the townspeople, and since they were content, who need ob- ject to their lack of progress ? Paul Fowler, a cultivated man,seem- ed strangely out of his sphere in Ath- erion. In him Herod found a congen- ial friend, and thus opportunities for seeing Dorothy were numerous. He thought he had outlived sentiment, but he soon became interested in the beau- titul, childlike girl, and at last, thor- oughly aroused, loved heras he thought it impossible to love any woman. To Dorothy, whose life had been very narrow and restricted, Herod was a revelation. He read to her as they sat together in the old-fashioned gar- den; talked of foreign lands as they strolled through the woods; and was attentive and tender always; and she dimly wondered how she could live if the time ever came when she should seen him no more. As the summer came on it seemed to Dorothy that her life grew happier, more full and rounded out with each summer day, till on a July evening, when the moen was high in the heav- ens, and the stillness of repose lay over tree and flower, Herod told Ler that he loved her. He had been singing an old love song in the moonlit parlor: “I attempt from love's sickness to fly in vain, Since I am myself my own fever and pain.” His voice died lingeringly away, and he crossed over to the window by which Dorothy was standing, the moonlight making her seem lovelier than ever. She was dressed in a trailing gown of creamy mull, with frills falling away from her softly curved throat and round white arms. To Herod she had never been so desirable as at that mom- ent. Both were silent, but silence was more expressive than words. As if with one thought, they stepped through the long window to the wide gallery, where Dorothy seated herselt on the railing, .and Herod stood looking at her with such intensity of expression that she averted her head. A climbing rose vine twined around the pillar, and the soft breeze blew a wandering blossom against her shoulder, where it fell apart. “See,” shesaid, “the poor rose. It was so lovely this morning, and now it is dead. This is a beautiful world, but things are always changing; nothing seems to last.” She spoke sadly. Herod leaned for- ward and closed his hand over her own. “Dorothy do you think my love for you will endure? Can you trust me ?”’ _ ‘That was all; no impassioned woo- ing, no protestations of undying affec- tion; but Dorothy wanted none. No need to question Ler own heart; it seemed to her that she had loved him ever since they first met. She could not fancy a time when she would cease to do so. Lifting her head, she looked straight into his eyes and softly breathed : 9Y eq.’ The next instant she was in his arms. There was for neither of them a past or future—only a bewilderingly happy present. Presently Dorothy shrank a little away from him. “It seems strange,” she shyly said, “that you should care for me—you, who know so much? I wonder why you do.” “Sweetheart, love you because you are your dear little self. You know what George Meredith says: “To him. she was purity, chastity, the keeper of the keys of whatsoever is held precious by men.’ My darling, I want you to be the keeper of the keys of my heart and life through all the coming vears. Nothing shall part us—that I swear !”’. cried Herod, rapturous'y clasping her closer. “Nothing shall part us!” The words rangin Dorothy’s ears when, after nany loving words, she had bidden her lover good-night and gone to her room. She knelt by the window, and looking dreamily out over the moon lit garden, thought of the future that lay before them. Together, always together! What sorrow could touch her when protected by his strong arms and shel- tered by love? The geeks that followed were full of a happiness that “spread out thin would have lasted a lifetime.” A dream, the memory of which became a bitter sweet one to both. ; Then the blow fell, and cruel Fate, intent on breaking hearts, could not have chosena more propitious moment. Paradise itself seemed mingled with their earth on that summer morning when Dorothy waited for Herod's com- ing. When he joined her they went into the low-ceiled old parlor; it was always cool and shady there, “Herod,” said Dorothy, sinking in- to the deeply cushioned window seat, “read something. It is completely be- yond me to sustain a conversation this morning, and: if you could be persuad- ed ‘to lend to the rhyme of the poet the beauty of your voice,’ I should be charmed.” “You would be, no doubt,” Herod replied, disregarding the murmured “vanity!” from Dorothy. “That you have little regard for my comfort is evident.” But he obediently went to the book- case and selected a copy of Tennyson, in crossing the room a photograph fell irom the volume, and he picked it up— the picture of an exceedingly handsome woman attired in evening dress. Herod stood stari=g at this apparent- ly innocent object like one dumbfound- ed. When he spoke his voice sound- ed almost hoarse. “How did this come here? What is this woman to you? Dorothy looked at his agitated face in surprise. “My mother,” was the answer. “Your mother! Good God!” Herod dropped into a chair and look- ed at her with an expression that brought tear to Dorothy’s heart. “Herod,” she cried, “what is the matter? Do you know her?” “Know her!” he repeated. “Why, the whole world knows her! She isa noted adventuress. You were in igno- rance of this?” he sternly questioned, looking at the girl's sweet face from which the color had fled. “Oh, yes, yes! She deserted us soon after my father’s death, but Ihave nev- er known the full extent of her disgrace and mine until now. If Paul knew he did not tell me. Dearest,” she went on pleadingly, “you are not angry? I am still the same Dorothy whom you love. Oh, Herod,” her breath coming in quick, sharp sobs, “speak to me! Tell me that her sins can not touch our happiness.” But Herod was silent. He had laid bis head on his folded arms, which rested on a table. His brain was whir- ling around, and he felt that he must before speaking. This discovery had shocked him greatly. Dorothy, his pure white lily,to spring from that mire —to bear a stained name. And yet he could not give her his own. He could not bear the scorn of his ari-tocratic family, the reproach that the daughter of an adventuress bore the old and hon- ored name of Redman. Not one doubt of Dorothy’s innate purity crossed his mind. Even though that creature’s blood was in her veins there was no taint of it in her heart, Of that he was certain. To give her up was torture; but the pride of name and position had been fostered in him, and now his love could not overbal- ance it. He must not marry her. Fate so he selfishly reasoned with himself, had willed it so. He arose slowly and looked at Dor- othy, who stood with bowed head, as though the weight of her sorrow and shame was more than she could bear. Herod caught her in his arms and rained despairing kisses on her face. “Oh, Dorothy, my darling, my sweet neart!” he murmured. “I love you dearly, but we must part. Heaven has been very hard to us both. Try to forgive me. Goodbye, my love— goodbye forever.” Fearing to trust himself longer in her presence, he pressed a last long kiss on her cold lips, acd quickly left the room. Dorothy stood looking after him. A sickening sense of what might have been, a despairing realization of what never could be, seized her. She felt passionate anger against her mother. But for her sins, Herod and happiness unbounded would have been hers. She did not claim him. Despite her inex- perience, she acknowledged that he had done what was best for the proud fami- ly from which he sprang, the honor of which he had no right to sully. She found a hundred excuses for the man she loved ; but her mother— “I can never forgive her,” she thought, “never! Even if when dying she implored my pardon, I could not grant it, She has robbed me of every- thing, my name, and now my love. I am so young, and life is so long!” She gazed wearily through the win- dow and watched Herod hurrying down the path, each step taking him farther away from her. The click of the gate sounded like a death-knell. And Herod Rodman came into Dorothy life never again. 2 Te owl ow In a hospital ward, tossing on a nar- row bed, a woman lay, and in her once handsome face, despite the marks of sin, there was a strange resemblance to Three the nurse who ministered to her in her dying hour. The fresh spring wind drifted throogh the open window, laden with the promise of summer; but to the dying woman it brought memories of the past, of the days when she was young and pure, and her future as full of promiseas the breeze. Repentance came too late now; the sands of her life were run, and its strife and passions over. She writhed with pain, and turned her eyes with an imploring look to tl.e nurse. “Dorothy,” she gasped, “I am 80 s7r- ry! Won’t you kiss me and say ‘Moth- er, I forgive you? Her voice died=x#way, but her eyes were full of mute pleading. The hand of death was already upon her, its icy touch fast stilling her heart; and Dor- othy pressed a kiss on the dying lips and said’— “Mother, I forgive you as freely as I hope to be forgiven.” Four Women Killed. Hunting a Mysterious Murderer With Fierce Bloodhounds, Tuesday night was a night of hor- ror in Denison, Tex. Between the hours of 11 p. m. and 3.30 a. m. an un- known assassin shot and killed four women, two of them the leading ladies of the city and two inmates of disreput- able houses. The first victim was Mrs. Haynes, the wife ot Dr. Henay F. Haynes, one of Denigson’s most respective citizens and a gentleman prominent in business and social life. Mrs. Haynes was a young and very attractive woman, She was probably assassinated while she was alone in her home just outside the city. About five hours later, in the very heart of the city, a beautiful young la- dy, Miss Florentine Hawley, was kill- ed by some unknown person. Miss Hawley was killed almost without a word of warning in the privacy of her room, in her mother's cottage home. She was seated on the bed with her mother when theshot was fired through a screen. The assassin then directed his step to the bagnio of Madam Rivers, where be fired from the front porch, killed Maude Kramer. After this he crossed to the next street, where he mortally wounded Rose Stewart, firing the shot from the sidewalk. The four foul murders have created a tremendous sensation. Business was at a standstill. Several hundred arm- ed men patrolled the city and suburbs in pursuit of the murderer. Blood- hounds had been brought into requisi- tion, but without success. Several ar- rests have been made, but it is beliey- ed that the murderer is «till at large: [a ——— Half Rates to Gettysburg via Pennsyl- vania Railroad. On Thursday, June 2nd, 1892, the “High Water Mark” Monument will be dedicated on the field of Gettysburg. This monument marks the highest point within the Union lines reached by Pick- ett’s troops in the memorable charge of July 3d, 1863, The monument has been erected under the auspices of the Battlefield Memorial Association. The dedicatory ceremonies will be highly in- teresting, consisting of speeches, poems, music, and military exercises. A large number of veterans, both officers and privates, will be gathered on the histor- ic field and the occasion will be a most memorable one. For the benefit of those desiring to at- tend, the Pennsylvania Railroad Com- pany will, on June 1st and 2d, sell ex- cursion tickets from all principal sta- tions on the lines to Gettysburg at a single fare for the round trip. Return coupons will be valid for use until June 4th inclusive. i —— An Old Favor Repaid- Thousand Dollars Deposited in a Cali- Jornia Bank to the Credit of John Lyttle, Prrrspure, May 22.-—A favor grant- ed by John Lyttle, now of McKees’ Rocks, in 1846, has become a comfort to him in old age and necessity. Dar- ing the war Mr. Lyttie endorsed a note for $1,100 for John Faulkner, a young Weston, W. Va., merchant. Faulkner failed, and Lyttle was obliged to pay, causing financial difficulties and his fin- al ruin. Since then he has been in very poor circumstances, and never heard of Faulkner again till recently when he saw advertisements in the Pittsburg papers, asking him to com- municate with Faulkner in Los Angel- es, California. To-day Mr. Lyttle received notice from a Los Angeles bank that $3.000 had been deposited to his credit, being the original $1,100 with interest. A LeADER.—Since its first introduc- ing, Electric Bitters has gained rap- idly in popular favor, until now itis clearly in the lead among pure medicinal tonics and alteratives—eontaining noth- tion which permitsits use as a beverage or intoxicant, it is recognized as the best and purest medicine for all ailments of Stomach, Liver or Kidneys.—It will cure Sick Headache, Indigestion, Con- stipation, and drive Malaria from the system. Satisfaction, guaranteed with each bottle or the money will be re- funded. Price only 20c. per bottle. Sold by C. M. Parrish. Not Elinded by the Glare. American Girl (after a proposal)—If I should marry you would I wear a crown ? ‘Foreign Nobleman--Oh no. ‘Well, I don’t mean a crown exactly, but a coronet or a scepter or something like that.” #N-o.” “Thiak of a palace you could live in snd tho horses and— 7’ “I have all that at home ’ “Then there is the society—Dukes and Princes and—presentation at the court you know.” “I'd like that. But you’d always be with me, wouldn't you ?” “Oh, yes.” “I forgot about that. accept.” I guess T won't The Making of Perfume. Why American Flowers Are Not Used and Why a Triple extract is so Called—Grease the Ex tractive— Cologne Waters. “It does not follow nowadays,” said a prominen New York druggist, “that a ecause 8 toilet perfume is made in France it is superior in quality to one’ of American prepartion. Such was ' formerly the case, but the art of making | fine perfumes has been carried to such perfection of late years in our own coun- | try that not mote than one-eighth as much of the French preparation is sold in the United States to-day as was sold afew years ago. Nearly $3,000,000,000 worth of home-distilled perfumes are | made in New York alone every year. | Chicago manufacturers put one-half as much on the market, and there are ex- tensive perfumery manufactories in Bos- ton, Philadelphia, San Francisco, St. Louis and other large places. “The American-made perfumes are exactly as good in quality as the French. The popular impression that many of our best extracts for the handkerchief and toilet bearing the names of sweet flowers are simply chemical imitations of the genuine odors is entirely wrong. The fact is that the genuine oils of flowers, of which all pure American perfumes are made, are imported, prin- cipally from France, and genuine musk and ambergris, the two most important and valued bases for fine perfumes,must be obtained in other countries. While the best American made perfumes are equal in quality to the finest French preparations, such could not be the fact if we had not that country to depend upon for our essential oils. ¢ The reason for this is that no entire- ly successful effort has yet been made here to raise flowers of sufficient rich- ness and density of perfume to supply essential oils in sufficient quanties to make it profitable to extract them, al- though it is held that the odorous blooms of some of the Southern States, especially Florida and other Gulf States have the same bouquet of the same flowers grown in Southern France, that great garden of commercial odors. The flowers that lead as providers of popular perfumes for the handkerchief and toilet are the jasmine, violet, tuberose, rose, bitter orange flowers and cassia. “These flowers, or most of them, are indigenous to the South of France, Cassia which is the blossom of the cinna- mon tree, comes from the Kast Indies, as does the tuberose. Bitter orange is from Northern Italy. The oils of vio- let, jasmine and tuberose, and other de- licate flowers, being highly volatile, must be extracted in a peculiar manner, in order that they may be retained for any length of time for use. “The essential oil of violets is the most volatile of all flower extracts, and as the flower itself is the most difficult to cultivate of all the perfume flowers, violet extract is of double the value of any other essential oil of perishable odor. : “Cassia is used as a substitute for vio- let when the latter is scarce. The oils of these flowers are extracted and held by what is known technically as grease absorption, but which the French give the pleasanter name of enileurage. I donot know who discovered the pro- cess, but it is one of the simplest, and at the same time the most effective, known to chemical science. “A layer of refined fat is spread upon a large wire sieve with small meshes. Upon this bed of grease the delicate petals of the odor bearing fiowers are scattered loosely. Then a layer of fat is placed upon the flowers, then more pet- als upon that, and so on until the sieve is filled. “The mass is then covered tightly and subjected for ten or twelve hours to a temperature just below the point at which the tat would melt. Then the heat is increased until the fat becomes liquid and runs through the meshes ot the seive into a vat arranged to receive it charged with the perfume of the flow- ers. The leaves apparently odorless, remain in the sieve, but one distillation does not rob them of all their sweetness. Some of the same fat, when cold, is mixed with them again, and the same process is repeated, “In turn some of the second distilla- tion is run through the sieve with the flowers, which are then, indeed, robbed of all their fragrance. The last two processes make the double and triple extracts known to the trade. The grease holding the rare oils of the flow- ers, is sealed in cans and roady for mar- ket, which it finds all over Europe and in this country. The commercial name of the grease is pomade extract. “In preparing the perfumes for use the manufacturer treats the pomade with odorless alcohol—that made from corn being the best, although spirits made from potatoes and grapes are also used. These are never perfectly odor- less, though, and therefore the finest perfumes cannot be prepared from them.’ “The alcohol at once becomes the affi- nity of the oil beld by the grease, and the oil readily leaves the latter and joins the spirits. The grease is still there, however. To remove it from the aflilia- ted perfume and alcohol, the compound is subjected to a gradually lowering temperature, until the grease congeals. It is then an easy and simple matter to run the liquid off, and all that is left to do is to bottle it, cork it, label, and it is ready for my lady’s handkerchief and toilet. “Bitter orange flowers, rose leaves, cassia and other perfume flowers have fixed essential oils which are extracted by distillation. 'The neroli oil of com- merce is obtained - from bitter orange blooms. These flowers are abundant in Florida, and most of the other choice perfumery flowers grow there and along the gulf in profusion, but the bases of the millions of dollars’ worth of toilet extracts used annually in the United States are nearly all imported. The question, then, would be pertinent, ‘Why does not some one utilize the growth of our own fragrant flowers and provide these materials ?’ “Tha fact is that, in spite of the as- sertion that the blooms of Florida are as rich in fragrant oils as the Franch flow- ers, experimental distillation has not made the assertion good, except in the case of bitter orange flowers. That ex- tract is produced in New Orleans of a qualiytjas flne as the French oil, and has been for years, but manufacturers do not seem to encourage its production to any great extent by using it instead of the foreign article. As to roses, in France 100 pounds of rose leaves yeild a dessert spoonful of essential oil. In America it requires a ton of leaves to produce the same quantity. Then, again, flowers can’t be picked by ma- chinery, and it is not at all likely that floriculturists in this country could se- cure hands to gather their fragrant blossom harvest for two cents a day, as they can in France, “There is one flower indigenous to our Southern soil which yeilds a delight ful extract, and which, singularly enough, has not been utilized much in the preparation of perfumes. That is the magnolia. A well known perfumer after making very satisfactory experi- | ments with the magnolia as a perfumery flower, was preparing to cultivate it on a large scale, but he died before the ar- rangements were perfected, and the Sens was never taken up by any one else. “Musk—that is the genuine grain from the musk deer—is now worth its weight in gold, so rare has it become, the wild-eyed little animal from which it is obtained having been very nearly exterminated from its Asiatic haunts. A full grown musk deer will yield about an ounce of the grains, which are found in asacin the skin of its abdomen. The grains are no larger than a pea, and some of them are as small as a pin’s head. The musk issold in the market in the pods or sacs in which it is found, but it is frequently adulterated. So many of the deer have been killed be- fore reaching maturity that the average musk bag imported, either Chinese or Russian, will not exceed half an ounce in weight. “The adulteration of musk is made possible by the use of a seed known as the musk seed. It grows in India. The Chinese musk is prized the most, but it is more open to suspicion than the Russian, which is seldom found with the sac broken, There are many artifi- cial musks, and our common muskrat yeilds a pod that is the only approach to the genuine imported musk, “Ambergris is a valuable and costly adjunct to the perfumers’ art. It is be- lieved to be the result of a disease which is common in the spermaceti whale, in the head of which 1s found as a secretion although it is frequently cast up by the sea in Oriental climes. and is gathered along the shore of Coramandel, Mada- gascar and Japan. ‘1t is an aromatic gray substance, and’ as much as 150 pounds of it have been taken from a single whale. A lump of ambergris of that size to-day would be worth about $5,000 to any whaler who might have the great fortune to find it. Ambergris is worth here something like $20 an ounce, and there is no import duty on it at that. It is of incalcula- ble benefit to the perfamer, as it gives homogeneity to the fragrance of com- bined extracts and oils in a remarkable manner, and strongly developes the de- licate and evanescent odors of volatile oils. Ambergris, when genuine, for it is easily counterfeited, is full of small black spots when cut. It is used also in improving the flavor of wine. “Cologne and toilet waters of all kinds have been so successfully prepared in this country during the "past few years that a large export trade in them has developed. “As cologne is simply refined, odorless alcohol, perfumed with some essential oil of flowers, there is no reason why it would not be made as well here as anywhere. All first class toilet waters, with the exception of bay rum, are nothing more or less than perfumed corn spirits, which have received medi- cinal quality by the introduction of balsamic or tonic properties. Genuine bay rum is always imported. “Nine-tenths of the stuff used as bay rum in New York, and other places as well, is not bay rum at all, but a mix- ture of the essential oil of bay with common rum or alcohol. “There are few barber shops here the genuine article is used. Genuine bay rum is made only in the West In- dies. It is the distillation of the green leaves and berries of the bayberry tree mixed with absolutely pure rum, St. Croix being used 1n the very best qual- ity of the preparation. “There is but one pure bayberry, but there are many varieties of it in the West Indies, and so closely do they re- semble the primemia oeris, or true bay, that great care is necessary in gathering the leaves, for the presence of a small quantity of any other variety is suffi- cient to destroy the entire product of a still. Ripe ber: ies are mixed in the still with the leaves. The best bay is distill- ed by steam in copper pipes, but the or- dinary commercial spirit, such as bay rum is made from here, is distilled over an open fire. “The genuine steam distilled bay spir- it is not only many times stronger than the other, but the refreshing odor that characterizes it is ten times as lasting. The West Indians find the true bay rum so necessary to their comfort among the numerous discomforts attending a life in the climate of their country that they use about all that is made, and hence its scarcity in this and other coun- tries.” Farmers After Heavy Damages. Suxsury, Pa., May 23.—To-day the arbitrators in the case of the farmers living along Shamokin creek, Nor- thumberland county, against the Phil- adelphia and Reading Coal and Iron company, the Pennsylvania Railroad company and others, handed down awards in ten cases, that, if entertain- ed, may mean a loss of millions of dol- lars to the companies. For years the coal dirt from the mines has been washed by each recurring freshet on the lands of the farmers along the creek. In 1889 the land was rendered barren. Ten cases were prosecuted and now after taking testimony for three years damages are awarded to the plaintiffs. Other suits will follow. The defendants will appeal to the courts. ——Hon. W. V. Lucas, Ex-State Auditor of Towa, says: “I have used Chamberlain’s Cough Remedy in my family and have no hesitation in saying it isan excellent remedy. TI believe all that is claimed for 1t. Persons afflicted by a cough or cold will find it a friend”’ There is no danger from whooping ccugh when this remedy is freely given. 25 and 50 cent bottles for sale by Frank P. Green, The World of Women. Mrs. Mary Russell Day has become - Kentucky's State Librarian. | Don Isadora Cousing, of Chile, is re- puted to be worth $200,000,000, and, of course, is the richest woman in the | world. i Many rows of mackine stitching finish the bottom of tailor-built suits, the stitching being reproduced upon the , edge of the bodice, the collar and cuffs. | The; thistle is a favorite flower as a ‘garniture for hats and bonnets. A novelty is a double thistle of jet and lace one rising above the other in aigrette orm. . Fawn, gray and beaver are included in the new spring shades for gloves, and there is a demand for black chevrette iid with a color, such as red, yellow or white. Mrs. Custer has it as a proud boast that she was the first woman in this country to shoot a buffalo. She'd need to travel a long way now to get a shot at one in its wild state. Peasant girdles of every description fancy suspenders, sashes and flats of ribbon are seen on almost every gown, The girdle has gradually crept up to the chin, the long sharp points finishing just below the collar and narrowing to a belt beneath the arms. Ludder-like side panels, striped with velvet or ribbon, are noticeable ; some- times bands run about the toot of the skirt in front and are brought up on each side in graduated lengths, each. one finished with an ornament or a. small rosette. Jabots, slashed sides and plated panels are introduced on many of the dresses. The fashionable style of coiffure is a low and loose chignon. The hair is drawn back from the temples and coiled at the back ; itis fastened with a high and narrow comb, which is useful for holding up the small capote. In front, the hair is either rolled up from the fore- over the brow, A lovely street dress is of gray broad- cloth and bengaline to match: It is made with a yoke, and the seamless waist has a Russian skirt which is de- tached. Rather wide gold braid out- lines the yoke and forms a girdle. The skirt part of the body is unlined and un- finished as the dress mentioned above, and the sleeves are also full and low. Wyoming women are to vote for President at the next national election, and are seriously endeavoring to fit themselves for a trust which they be- lieve to be important. The women of Cheyenne have organized a league club addresses and discussions bearing on topics of national interest which may help them to vote honestly and intelli-- gently. The princes. e form of skirt, the ele- gance of which depends upon its sim- plicity and cut, has brought into favor the small vest, which is short round like the Spanish jacket of velvet, trimmed with passementerie, garnished with little balls ; or, square of blue cloth, finished with black braid, or bordered with a flat ;galloon, like the elegant Turkish braid, a military fantasy, appreciated for its originality. A handsome toilet for an elderly woman is of black and salmon peau de soie. Down the back of the body is a box plait which looks as though it were put on, but in reality is formed by cut- ting the middle breadth large enough to. admit of its being folded over. Jet out- lines the seams and a girdle of the same reaches almost to the kmees in front. The sleeves are shirred on the outside, not sewed in as most sleeves are. As will be seen from the description of this gown the tendency at present is to cut the waists of dresses with as few seams as possible. The girl who wears a blouse this sum- mer often complicates it somwhat with ribbon straps over the shoulders. Some- times she fixes them bretelle-wise, and sometimes the crosses them back and front. Sometimes she starts them from a point at the waist in front, under a sil- ver horseshoe, and lets them fetch up or down at a point in the waist behind. Whatever their arrangement, they are quite as apt to contrast in color with the blouse as to agree with it, and to make a piquant, sometimes a startling bit of decoration. Wise girls consider the ef- fect of black velvet ribbon before they experiment with anything less safe and sure. Suggestions for cotton gowns are plentiful and the woman who cannot get an idea from one of the following descriptions is certainly hard to please : One was a gingham, white and pale lavender in stripes, about a quarter of an inch wide. The skirt was made in three pieces. There was the bell skirt, with a narrow ruffle about the bottom. Over this there were two deep flounces, reaching from the waist to the middle of the skirt and from the middle to the foot respectively. The upper flounce was rather scant and did not give the balloon appearance so much dreaded. It was scarcely more full than the skirt itself would have been. Both flounces were trimmed with white imitation guipure lace. The waist was lined with soft, white sateen. In the back it was laid in folds half an inch wide from the shoulders to the waist Jine. The front was full in the middle, gathered at the neck and at the waist line. Guipure lace simulated a zouave jacket on the sides. A black velvet girdle trimmed the lower edge of the bodice and formed loops and bows in the back. The very full sleeves had bows of black velvet 2 perched on the shoulders. Next comes a plain, rather dull blue chambray, made in a very simple style. There is a deep , round yoke of white with dull blue figures. Two ruffles of the same material outlines this yoke and the blue chambray is laid beneath it in overlapping folds. The skirt is made in the prevailing style with a ruffle of figured goods about the foot. Another simple summer gown. It is. of brown gingham with a plain skirt, full blouse waist gathered on to a mod- erately deep yoke of embroidery and belted with brown velvet. The skirt is trimmed with a deep, old fashioned double box-plaiting. head, or a small cluster of frizzles falls. and propose to study, talk, and listen to ————.