i» : the Northerp * Pacific, running up the + Springs 8 miles; five or six days board- . casionally at some fellow whom you - surprise .and enjoyment, in a manner springs or pools of hot water, as placid Deworealic {atc Bellefonte, Pa., Aug. 21, 189L WHERE HE PUT HIS ARM. He stood outside the gate awhile, And said “Good night,” with lovesick smile, %Good night,” she said. “Good night,” ence more He muttered as he'd done before, Aud then lured by some subtle charm, He came inside and put his arm— She wore a hat of jaunty shape, Tied up with some soft clinging crape, A truant ribbon from its peak Strayed down and kissed her dimpled cheek. The moon was full, the hour was late; As they stood there beside the gate. His love, by Cupid’s bellows fanned, ‘Blazed up. He took her little hand And muttered, ‘Dear, what is the harm?” And then he gently put his arm— She wore a gown of creamy white So filmy that a fairy might Have spun it in an hour of thrift, And sent it to her as a gift. The moon reflected, “Three's a crowd,” And thea politely sought a cloud. ‘With opportunity so near, Hy His love welled strong and banished fear, He smiled away her first alarm, And then he gently put his arm— A little bird came round next day And told me thaf twas just this way; He put his arm as thus they stood, ‘Where it would do the greatest good. —Clothier aud Furnisher. To the Rockies and Return. How the North-West Looks #0 a t’eun- sylvanian. (Continued from last awed.) We reached Livingston about eight o'clock on Sabbath evening. Here, ae at Miles city, where we left in the morn- ing, the bars, cigar stores and business places were in full blast and seemed to. be doing & thriving business. This is. the point at whieh tourists to the Yel-- lowstone Park leave the ‘main line of the Northern Pacific. It hes a popula- | tion of about 2,706 and town lots which ; the owners want $5000 a pieee for, This’ is the first place we saw gambling in public, carried om under the protection of a law licensing this evil. TtwasSun-: day evening, but =ll the same you could stand alomg the streets at almost any point and hear the rattle of ivory chips and see the games go on as men lost or won at faro or poker. We did not go to | church, nor did we observe any particu-' lar greed for the Gospel in that locality, but we did see fully as maay persons trying their “luck” at cards that Sab- bath evening as would have made a | very good sized eongregation. It is' hardly necessary to state that this high- ly moral (?) munieipality supports two Republican newspapers and een always be counted upon at election time for a rousing Republican majority. At Livingston you purekbase your ticket for the Park, that is, if you forget, as we did, to buy it at St. Paul. For a five days trip it will cost you $40, and for a six days tour, which includes a visit to the Lake, in addition to the Geyser basins, the esayons, ete., the cost will be $50. This ticket entitles you to transportation ever a branch «f Gardner river to Cinmabar,51 miles; from there, by coach, tec Mammoth Hot ing, as your ticket ealls for at the Park hotels ; transportation through the Park and back to Livingston, It isthe only expense you will be at, unless you feel like tipping the servants, or “wina™ oc- suppose is prepared to be “winked™ at. We could teil you much that you will see in the Park, but no pen or no painter can describe or color the wom- ders of the Geysers, the beauties of the canons, or the grandeur of the scenery which nature has placed there for man’s ‘that you could either yoderstand or ap- preciate their awe-inspiring actions or ‘their sublime beauties. These ean only be known by being seen. There are as the sea in a calm, upon whose surface no ripple is ever seen, aud down into ‘the depths of which one can look for -8ixty or seventy feet upon walle encrust- ed with formations and colors the beauty of which is beyond conception. There are others that ere continually boiling -and hissing, and roaring and steaming as if hell was immediately beneath them and the fires thereof being continuously stirred up. There .are others quiet and calm for a time, and while you may be admiring their beauty and placidity, will begin to simamar, then to bubble, | then to boil and roar, end roar and boil, harder, and harder, and harder,until in their effort they cast up water and steam in columns and clouds to the height of | 8 hundred feet or more. #ome of these | are so regular in their time.of ‘playing,’ 83 it is called there, that you could regulate your watch by their actions. “Old Faithful,’ inthe Upper&reyser ba- sia (therejare three basins, the Norris, the Middle and the Upper, distant from each other from ten to twenty miles) plays every 65 minutes just as certainly a3 the 65 niinates come round. The fountain in the Middle Geyser basin plays every two and a quarter hours; others every three, four or five hours ; ! some every other day, some play con- stantly, and others put off their per- formances for a week at a time. There are thousands of them, from the Excel- sior, covering half an acre in extent, to Around the mouths of most of them are strangg, ‘fantastical, many colored for- | mations made by the solidifying of the different minerals contained in the water when thrown out. The water in all of them is so hot you cannot bear your hands init. i There are other Geysers and Boiling springs, not of water, but of mud an¥ mineral, encircled in crater-shaped cones, some covering a quarter of an acres in extent, others of less size, and of all conceivable colprs, one of which, up near the Lake, spouts mud to the height of sixty feet; the others boiling and spouting all the ‘time like a mush pot ons farmers stovedin November. There is a sulphur mountain fram the base of ‘which roaring, boiling sulphurous springs, and smells that would discount the perfume of the infernal regions, come forth. There are steam vents that {ipa out clouds of blistering white steam as regularly asithe stroke of an engine. {| Mhere are holes in hills that belch forth thot air and steam and roar and rumble as it the earth beneath was writhing in convulsions. Tt isnot to be wondered :at that in this section of the Park such {places as the Devil's Frying Pan, the Devil’s Panzh Bowl, the Devil's Stair- way, the Bevil’s Kitcken, or Hells {Half Acre, ere to be found. There is the Obsidian Cliff, a moun- {tain of voleanic glass, and then the can- -ons, half a dozen in number, with their -cliffs and chasms and many colored walls, and water-falls ranging in height from 60 to'880 feet, with their mistand thunder, the beauty and sublimity of which no pen can describe. All through the Park there are pretty lakes and meadow land, thickly wooded bills and clear, cold rivers and streams with flow- ers of innumerable variety and wild beasts of nearly every species, There are few birds, possibly because there ara no berries or buds for food. At the outlet of the Yellowstone Lake trout weighing from one totwo and a half pounds can be caught as fast as one can take them from ‘the hoek and cast a fly. At one place you cen take them from the lake, and without moving from your position or taking them from your line, swing them into & spring hot enough to boil them. At the Hotel in the Upper Gey- ser basin wesaw them washing clothes in a way that any good house-wife might well-envy. There was a slat box anchored in one of the many hot pools in that vicinity, into which, well soaped, ‘the clothes were dumped in the morn- ing; the constant boiling and spurting | of the water cleansed them by evening |as thoroughly as if put through the most effective washing machine. There was mo labor about the operation except the soaping and rinsing—the bubbling, boiling water did the rest. While passing through the Park we saw deer so tame you could not frighten them from their grazing ground ; wolves stood within afew rods of the road as our surrey passed, and watched us as quietly as a pet dog would have done; antelope and elk fed within ten rods of the public road and did not move as wa passed by; big gray cranes and wild geese swam upon the lakes as tame as common ducks, and red squirrels ran over the porches and under chairs of guests at the hotels. Fire arms are not allowed to be used within the park, and heavy penalties are imposed for killing any kind of game hence this tameness of the animals. The entire distance through the Park —75 by 85 miles in xtent— is made by stage coach orsurrey, and the five days trip aggregates about 130 miles of this kind of travel. The roads, which are made and kept in repair by the govern- ment, areexcellent, except in spots, but in many places precipitously steep. Most of the time you are in the Park y ou are at an elevation of over 7500 feet sbove sea level, and yet at this great height the sun burnsand blisters until your face assumes the the appearance of a boiled lobster, and during the day, while we were there, the thermometer scarcely ever got below 85, notwith- standing the fact, that we rode within sight of snow tipped mountains nearly all the time. The nights are eool and but few mornings dawn that frest can- not be een. The highest point reached during the five days’ ride,is when eross- ing the summit of Mary’s Mountain, at which place you find & beautiful, elear, cold {ake at an altitude of 9,000 feet, — four thousand feet higher than the sum- mit of the Rocky Mountains where the Northern Pacific railroad crosses it at Butte. Xleciric Peak is the highest mountain in the park, its rocky tips showing an elevation of 11,125 feet. Theonly species of timber growing with- in the Park is a mountain fir. These trees attain the height of 80 or 90 feet, are as straight as an arrow anl scarcely ever larger than from eight to twelve inches in diameter at the butt, and with so little foliage upon them that al- though in places they stand exceedingly thick, the sun blazes down through them as if they were gigantic hop poles. There is no underbrush of any sort, and you might as well look for an ice cake in one of the Geysers as for a cane or fly-brush in that entire territory. Un- derneath these trees, as well as over the meadow land, is a carpet of the greenest little ones not larger than a wash bowl. of grass, decked with flowers of many sorts. In the winter, we were old , ‘the creeks freeze to the bottom -and snow | often falls te the depth of {fften feet. The stage drive through the Park is’ an exceedingly pleasant one—barring the alkali dust which, with the sun, burns and blisters you, and the pestifer- ous mosquitoes, which at times are so thick, so our driver informed us, that often he had been compelled te stop and ran a pole up through them to let sunshine enough down to see to drive by. Wedidn’t hit one of these “times,” but, as it was, the mosquitoes were a perpetual pest. The vehicles are easy riding and safe and are suited to the size of the party. If thereare three persons traveling together, they are furnished with a good surrey, two horses and a driver ; if more constitute the.crowd, they are taken in a well cushioned stage coach, carrying from seven to twelve persons amd drawn by four ov six good horses, Careful and intelligent drivers are furnished who haye strict orders to give all the infor- mation and attenticn possible to those in their charge. The transportation is in the hands of Mr. Geo. H. Wakefield, whose management of it is so admirable and perfect that, in addition to accom- modating the usual park travel, our jparty, consisting of 160 persons, found ‘every comfort and convenience and were as promptly and pleasantly carried over the long route as if we had been a crowd of but half a dozen. The hotels, which are located at convenient points and un- der the superintendence of Mr. W. G. Johnson, are large and well furnished and extend to guests the best of service. When you start through the Park leave everything you have at the Mam- moth Hot Springs Hotel, except the old suit of clothes you wear, a single wrap and what money you may want to spend for cigars, as tips to waiters, &c. There are no bars allowed within the limits of the government reserve, but if you know which eye to “wink” and which particular person to “wink” it at, you are generally able to get whatever the inner man craves most. In fact, so complete are all the arrangements with - in the limits of this wonderland, that sight seers can enjoy all the comforts they will find any where outside. ‘We were unfortunate when leaving the Park and Livingston, in choosing a night train for the ride to Butte. By doing so we failed to see Bozeman, said to be one of the best built towns in Montana, as well as the Gallatin valley, of the fertility and productiveness of which we afterwards heard such fairy- like tales. After listening the next day at Butte, for an hour or more to an Arabian Night's description of how things grow all through this wonderful valley, we inquired of our informant, who, we afterwards discovered, was a real-estate agent from Bozeman, if he knew of any one by the name of Anna- nias, or if a man or the name of Gulli- ver had lived in his section ? “Cer- tainly,” was the reply, “I knew them both well. Gulliverlived up on the West Gallatin. I fished with him many a day on that stream, and Annanias located the claim upon which Bozeman now stands. They were both friends of mine. Did you know them ?’’ he added. We pleaded ignorance of a personal ac- quaintance with either and deeply re- gretted that we had missed a sight of this highly favored locality. The hour hand on our watch pointed to 3 o’clock, Sunday morning, as we en- tered a carriage at Butte station to be driven to the hotel in the upper part of of the city. As we passed along the streets at that hour in the morning, the saluons, gambling houses and even smallshops were brilliant with lights, and scores of men were occupying seats at gambling tables or standing in rows along the bars, while out on the pave- ments were men and women, as plenti- ful as they may be found on the streets of Bellefonte at ten o’clock in the even- ing, and nowhere was there any sign that night was fast turning into dawa. A few hours rest, such as could be had amid the din of women’s voices and the banging of a piano just across the street from our hotel, and the constant patter of feet upon the wooden pavement, and we were out ready to see this city of sil- ver mines and sinners, quartz lodes and courtesans, barrenness and bruisers, smelters and smoke. It is a city, as the census tells us, containing about 30,000 inhabitants, and stands on the western slope of the Rockies, but a few miles be- yond the summit. It is known as the greatest mininz camp in the world, and from mines within its municipal bound- aries it furnishes gold silver, copper and 000 yearly. Like other cities it has water-works, street cars, electric light, a court house, &c., but, unlike any city we have ever seen, it has neither tre», nor vine, nor shrub, nor grass, nor any green thing, unless it be some of its own population. The residences generally, with the exception of a very few busi- ness blccks, are but one story frame buildings, and every indication points to the fact that it is a city without who are getting rich, tor those who are holding on, hoping to get rich, and for ' others who have given up that hope but lead ores to the value of over $30,000,- | are too poor to gel away. We visited the Lexington mine, said to be the deepest one in that section, and saw them bringing ore up from the depth of 1500 feet. Through the polite- ness of a young gentleman in the assay- er’s department of the smelting works, which are connected with the mine, and whose name we neglected to take, we were shown through the works and wit- nessed the process of crushing the quartz, (which when brought up from the mine has very much the appearance of our common lime stone rock); of stamping it until as fine as flour; then the roasting, cooling, washing, amal- gamating, retorting and finally the cast- ing into bullion bars,—processes we would like to describe in detail, that the reader might understand the great ex- pense of mining and extracting from the rocks the precious metals, but which the limits of this article will not allow. Into the butte or mountain up- on which the city stands mine holes are drilled as plentiful as passage ways in an ant hill, and the great smelting works send up their smoke so thick,from every section of it, that at times it is impossi- ble to see across the street. Lt is alleg- ed that the poisonous gasses arising from the roasting of ores in these works, is the cause of the desolate and desert like ap- pearance of the country in an about Butte—a place where vegetation refuses to grow and where every living thing the ground produces has blackened and died. It was near noon when we returned from the mine to the hotel, and were scarcely seated in our room when the music of a brass band was heard. Tt sounded as if marching by and went out of hearing ; and then it passed again, and again, and again, and kept this up so continuously that we began to won- der what kind of wind the members of a Butte brass band had, that they could blow and march up and down, and across that hilly, hot city, in a blistering sun, without a moment's rest, and what they were doing this for on Sunday. ‘We satisfied our curiosity by going down stairs and ascertaining that there are three systems of street car lines in Butte—electric, cable and steam—be- tween which a great rivalry exists; thation Sunday afternoons it is cus- tomary to have some kind of an enter- tainment out along their lines, and to attract the crowd, bands are hired and hauled through the city,in cars placarded all over with bills setting forth the at- tractions. We waiched until the first one came along, and on the side of it was a muslin streamer setting forth in very big letters that at 2 p. m. there would be a wrestling match between the champion of California and the champion of Montana, away up on the hill at a hall the name of which we have forgotten. The next one running in a different direction promised a ‘‘mam- moth exkibition” of some sort out ata treeless park in the suburbs of the city, and the third had something equally as exciting and entertaining to offer. There was no evidence anywhere that it was the Sabbath day. Wagons were rattling around, men in their working clothes were hurrying along the streets, saloons, gambling rooms and stores were open, and to add variety to the bands and business of the day, a woman in her night dress danced on her back porch across the street from the hotel, to the music of one of the bands as it pass- ed along. It was a queer sight and ex- perience to one used to the quiet of a Pennsylvania Sunday, and remember- ing the Geyser region, not far distant, and from whick we had just come, with its roaring mountains, scalding springs and brimstone smells, and gazing over this blackened, sun scorched, homeless looking city, with its thousands of noises dinning in our ears, is it to be wondered at that the place seemed as near hell’s borderland as one might wish to get? The Northern Pacific railroad, over which we had traveled from St. Paul, for the smoothness of its road-bed, the speed and safety of its trains, the cleanliness and comfort of its cars and the polite attention of 1ts employes, is unexcelled by any of our eastern roads. After leaving Minnesota,it passes the en- tire distance to Butte through the south- ern parts of North Dakota and Mon- tana. Our trip out gave us a very fair iden of this portion of these two States, and we concluded to return via the Great Northern, which, after running north to Fort Asinniboine, turns east and keeps close to the Canadian line, aatil it reaches Grand Forks in the Red | River valley, when it turns almost due | south to St. Paul. Leaving Butte, which is in the ex- | treme south western corner of the State, the Great Northern starts directly north rand passes through a sterile mountain district, over deep gorges, through rocky i cuts and around sparsely timbered hills, [until it reaches the Boulder valley, | where the first efforts at farming are to 'be noticed. Here and there small patches of oats and potatoes can be seen, some promising, others poor. The homes—simply a staying place for those | houses, what few there are, have the appearance of wood cutters’ cabins in the mountains of this State. The valley is not wide and you soon get in among | the hills again, where scattered, sickly, | pines push themselves out from between the rocks, and on either side of the road you see holes dug in the hills, where some poor fellow has wasted his time and little fortune hunting for gold or silver that was not there. As you near Helena, whichis 75 miles distant from Butte, and at tha eastern foot of the Rockies, you enter a, pretty valley, fairly well watered from irrigat- ing ditches, and in places showing that the soil is productive, by the excellent promise of a tull harvest. Oats and hay are the principal crops, the land mostly being used for stock raising. Helena is one of the loveliest cities of the West. It lies at the base of high hills that protect it on the north and east, while a rich valley stretches to the south and west. It is built on an old placer mine district, ——the washings of which still litter the vacant lots--and from which over $60,- 000,000 of gold was realized. The principal business streets have blocks of buildings, of which our eastern cities would be proud. It has an abundance of banks that are said to hold an almost unlimited amount of capital, and the finest driving horses we saw west of the Mississippi. Two miles from the city is the celebrated hot springs, boasting the finest hotel of any watering place in the country, and a bathing pool unequaled in the world. And yet with all its cleansing and purifying properties it has not been able to make Montana politics or morals seemingly pure or respectable. A short distance from Helena the road passes out of the valley to which we have referred and strikes the waters of Wolf Creek, following it down through Prickley Pear canon to the Missouri river—an hour’s ride through magnificent mountain scenery along a stream fairly well shaded, the only one of the kind we saw west of St. Paul, and said to be literally alive with trout. Houses, such as they are, can be seen at every turn, and the public road, as one sees it from the car window, winding round the hills and across the gulches, appears to be well worn, showing that considerable population exists among the barren hills and rocky cliffs that tower up in all directions. From where the railroad meets the Missouri river at the mouth of Wolf’s creek on down to Great Falls, the flat lands widen out into a great rolling prairie, productive looking, but needing irrigation to secure the growth *of any vegetation, Little houses show up occasionally, and a lonesome oats or potato patch grows wherever water can be got to wet the soil. Throughout this section the same want of trees and shade and water is felt that makes so much of the distance along the Northern Pacific so dreary and desolate looking. The sun shines down blistering hot, but in the shade, where any can b- found, a cool breeze is felt and one could be fairly comfortable were it not for the voracious mosquitoes and the burning western alkaei dust. Great Falls, 171 miles east of Butte, and 1074 west of St. Paul, is just now in the midst of a boom. It is believed by those who are investing, to be the coming business and manufacturing centre of the State. Within easy reach of the Canadian and Belt mountain coal fields; surrounded by a good gryzing country and a soil which when watered will grow any thing planted, with sil- ver, gold, copper and iron ore in abund- ance and a water power that is unex- celled anywhere in the world, itis not strange that real estate owners believe they have a good thing in the lots and land they own, and expect to become rich by the increased value of their be- longings. From this point the Great Northern has two branches, the one running south-east to the mining regions of the Belt mountains, the other north west ‘to the coal and lumber fields of British Columbia. Through this town, for town only it now is, must be hauled all the fuel for the engines that keep in motion the monster machinery of the almost numberless smelting works in and about Butte; through here goes much of the pine wood used in these same works for roasting the crushed ores of the thousands of mines around them ; and such are its facilities for the lessening of the. cost of smelting ores, that a number of large works of this kind are now in the course of erection which will utilize the magnificent water power to run their machinery with. Manufactories too are starting up, and the fact that steam power, so expensiv@ in a country that is scarce of fuel, can ba dispensed with, and a water power that costs nothing but the realty adjoin- ing,substituted in its place, gives promise of making this the largest manufacturing city of the West. Last year there was shipped from Grand Falls over 4,000,- 030 pounds of wool; 125,000 sheep; 1,000 horses and 14,000 fat cattle, show- ing that the country thereabouts is no slouch of a place for stock raising, and yet with all its advantages,, promises and prospects, it is like all other places west of the Minnesota timber line, tree- less, arid, dusty, hot and disagreeable in summer, and biting, bitter cold in win- ter. From Great Falls east to Minot, a distance of 650 miles, is comparatively Ey TT STINE an unpeopled prairie; long stretches of rolling iand, then longer ones of flat, following each other, with nothing to attract attention, outside of the little towns that are few and far between, but occasional herds of grazing stock and colonies of prairie dogs. Itisa ride of almost twenty-four hours, and after the first one hundred miles as monotonous as listening to the same preacher al} your life, or courting a girl you don’t care much about, This section is not as arid and dry as along the Northern Pacific. Grass grows much more pro- lificly, and sage brush is not nearly so abundant. “Hay can be eut almost any place, the cattle can be seen from the cars, and in good condition, and but few stretches ot bad lands are passed. No effort at cultivation is made, for during this entire distance the land requires ir- rigation to grow anything but grass, and water can be gotten for most of it only from artesian wells. It is nearly all government land, unclaimed and open for anyone who wants it. The towns are small and mostly made up of the little houses of stock raisers and ranchmen, with a plentiful sprinking of saloons, gambling rooms, and corals for confining stock ready to be shipped. At many of the stations you will see In- dians closely wrapped in thick warm blankets, although the sun is boiling hot and the thermometer,outside the car, is upto 90, offering polished Buffalo horns for sale. Ask them the price and they look at you, grunt, and hold up. one dirty finger,—which means $1.00.. One thing in particular was noticeable, that while the few white people who stood about the depots to watch passing trains, were continuously and vigor- ously brushing at and fighting away mosquitoes, the Indian never appeared to mind these pests a particle. We don’t know whether it was because the mosquitoes don’t care for Indians, or that the Indian don’t: care for mosqui- toes. Hast of Minot, which is 525 miles west of St. Paul, the country begins to put on a different appearance, and you run by squares of wheat and oats, and see little houses scattered here and there between the towns ; flocks of fat cattle are more plentiful and hay fields show up every few miles. Trees are seen in narrow fringes along the streams, and as you get farther east, all of these signs of a promising and thriving coun- try multiply, until, when you reach the Devil's Lake region,you are in a section fairly well populated and much of it under cultivation. TItis here at Devil's Lake that you enter the famous Red river valley, and from this on east to Grand Forks, and on over into Minne- sota, along the valley of the river of the Red Lake, is a country that would make a Pennsylvania wheat farmer's eyes stand out in surprise. The land is flat, with scarcely enough of fall towards the Red river to drain it—were that. necessary ; the soil is from 25 to 80 feet in depth, a loose, rich, sandy loam, that will produce from 20 to 40 bushels of wheat to the acre, or grow anything else with the same prolificness, that the length of the seasons will admit of. It is a wheat country only, however, and elevators are as thick, after you get east of Devil’s Lake, as school houses are in this State. Along the streams, which are sluggish, there is considerable hard wood timber, the farm buildings are bet- ter and more comfortable than you see elsewhere in the West. Churches and school houses are not forgotten and al- together it is the most homelike, promis- ing and seemingly prosperous and rich- est section we visited west of the Min- nesota line. Like other places it has its disadvantages and failures, as well as its productiveness and plentitude. The winters are terribly severe, fuel is scarce, and drouths in summer often wither up the crops. It is “God’s country’ for wheat, oats and barley, if the power that regulates the rain would not forget when it is needed and be more regular and liberal in the supply. This present season the crops, which are just now be- ing harvested, will exceed anything ever known in the north-west, both in amount and quality. The past two years, however, they were almost total failures, for want of rain, and as a con- sequence, most of the cultivated land is now loaded down with mortgages, upon which interest from ® to 12 per cent. has to be paid. In this section, unbroken land can be bought from $5 to $15 per acre, At Grand Yorks, a substantial and pretty town of 5.000 inhabitants, we met W. R: Bierley, esq., formerly of Miles township, this county, whois getting rich publishing the Grand Forks’ News, a paper that'is Democratic all over and independent in all things. He has been a resident of that place for about eight years and gives most glowing accounts of the advantages of his adopted home, The sun was setting as we rattled out of Grand Forks across the Red river into Minnesota, and for the next 50 miles we could see, as twilight came on and deep- ened, the same easily tilled, productive »ooking farms, that we had been passing since entering the Red river valley. The | next morning we wakened up as the engine whistled for St, Paul, and our (concluded cn third page)