The evening telegraph. (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, July 09, 1869, FIFTH EDITION, Page 6, Image 6

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    THE TRADE IS LOCKS.
ThMe ro "locks and locW to adopt the
formnli of the day-and it in not of the
patent of Chubb, Brnmnh, or Hol.bs, or of
tnmMer, Rftfety, detector, or other mechanical
fastening that we are about to spoak. It is
of the "hyncinlhine locks" alluded to by Mil
ton and more especially of those borrowed
rPRsos which women nowadays covet to that
B,8i r toniake one think that, like Sam-
- oil thoir nower lay in thoir hair.
BUH " I - .. -
believe that all that has been
Dooh any one
r,.r,iliHts. and censors, and ineui-
cal men to boot, during the past two or three
ears a-jainst the pract.ee of wearing false
lair that all the horrible stones which have
been told about chignons being made from
hair cut from corpses,
or tho terrible revela-
linns that have been made respecting
gre
the onri. nflmr Darasites, or even
recent threat of the Bishop of Now Jersey not
to lav his episcopal hands on tho heads of
Tonnu ladies who present themselves bofore
him to bo confirmed in borrowed tresses, has
caused one false chignon, repent ir, cachefohe,
ttte-tt-mint, or Alexander curl tho less to be
worn ' Tho trado in hair is as flourishing as
ever and tho choicer samples still command
exceptional prices. One of tho largest lV
dealers still finds customers for his blonde
anient chignon at 1.-.00 francs, although silk
counterfeits are common enough in all tho
pmewubrie shops for as .little as nine.y
centimes. . ,
Every one knows by this time that tho bnlk
of the false natural hair worn in the British
Isles is imported from Trance, for with us tho
very poorest never sell their hair, excepting
the canny Scots, who supply the Tans market
with tho best red and flaxen hair. France, by
this time, must send us about '.0,)0) annu
ally; still, what is tlris among the live million
women given to plaiting and tireing their
hair? l'ositively less than threepence per
head a mere bagatelle for such astounding
results. It is Brittany that sends tho largest
unpplics of human hair to tho I'aris market.
"Since tho ltoinan conquest," writes Chateau
briand, "the Gallic women have always sold
thoir blonde locks to deck brows less adorned.
My Breton compatriots still resign themselves,
to be clipped on certain fair days, when they
exchange tho natural coveriug of their heads
for an India handkerchief."
Happening to alight on the above passage
in a volume of Chat- mbrinnd's Memoirs,
which I found ly'ng about tho hotel at Com
Lourg, where I chun ed to bo on the eve of
the 4th of September List. tho day of the
famous fair culled the Angeine, held, as
Ch.iuteaubriand tells us, in "tho meadow of
the lake," though the road to Henries now
separates lnko and liie.ulow, I strolled in the
direction of the chateau, of which and of tho
gloomy lift of its inmates Chateaubriand has
left us such a vhid description, to see tho
pereparations for the morrow's fete. In tho
meadow referred to, and along tho high road
adjoining, I came upon a sort of camp.
Carts and wagons half unloaded, horses
tethered to stakes fixed in tho ground, canvas
tents and little booths in conrso of erection;
with hammers constantly rapping, children
gambolling and squalling, iWtd caldrons sus
pended over crackling woodiires, steaming
and smoking. Among the objects that were
being unpacked and piled up pell-mell on all
(tides were an abundance of common house
hold utensils, knives,pottery, wooden shoes,felt
hats, drapery goods, printed cottons, religious
trinkets, and cheap jewelry, but I looked in
vain for tho foulards and tho corahs for which
the Breton girls bartered al'ko their fair and
raven locks with equal readiness.
Next day I visited the fair when tho crowd
Tvas at its height, and explored all the stalls
in the meadow and by the roadside in vain
search after those shearers of young girls'
tressos, respecting whom I felt some curiosity
since reading the foregoing passage in Cha
teaubriand's Memoirs. Arrived at the out
skirts of the fair, at tho wings of the specta
cle, in fact, I noticed under a wide-spreading
walnut tree, and partially hidden behind a
largo crockery stall, as though the spot had
been selected as affording a certain degree of
privacy, a hooded cart half filled with pack
ages, its shafts resting on the ground, and a
lean horse, fastened to one of the spokes of
the wheel, grazing beside it. The owner, a
little square-built, muscular man, about forty
years of ago, seemingly half peasant, half
horse dealer, was sitting on one of tho shafts
close to a parcel of printed cotton goods. One
detected something of the rogue in tho twin
kle of his insolent-looking eye, as, unfasten
ing a small packet, he brought forth one by
one half a dozen showy-looking handker
chiefs, and expatiated on the particular beau
ties of each as he produced it to an old pea
sant woman, who held a barefooted young
girl of twelve by the hand, whose "catiole"
had been removed, the bettor to display the
profusion of beautiful black hair which foil in
cascades to her waist. As I approached the
group, I noticed that the man suddenly be
came silent, but I board the woman say:
"One handkerchief is not enough for such
S quantity of hair." The girl seemed to have
no voice in the matter, so she contented her
self with regarding with covetous eyes the
brilliant treasures displayed before her.
"My good soul," replied the dealer, in a
coaxing tone, "I really can't give more, or I
should lose by it, for I have already got more
black hair than I want. It is only light hair
that fetches any price nowadays; still, as I
promised you a handkerchief, you shall have
one. I'll not cry off tho bargain. You know
where to find me when you have made up
your mind."
The old woman made no reply, but pro
ceeded to assist tho child to do up her hair,
rolling it, chignon fashion, inside her loose
"catiole." The pair then walked away, but
returned a moment aftor to accept the
dealer's terms, who, without more ado, set to
work. Seated upoa a three-leggod stool, he
crrirmed as it were his victim, her hair all
hanging down between his knees. In his
hand was a pair of largo open shears, which
he pressed close to the girl h bead. "Mon
sieur." cried she, "you are hurting me; pray,
don't cut it all off; leave me one lock to fasten
inv comb to."
The dealer, however, was deaf to this sort
of entreaty, and with a few snips of his largo
scissors, cropped tho child's head almost
close. He then rolled up the bunches of
hair. and. after securing them with a knot,
ut them into a bac. w hile the girl, raising
her hands to her head, felt instinctively for
one moment for her missing tresses, then
hastened to conceal with her catiole tho
ravages the dealer's shears had made. This
done, the old woman selected tho gaudiest of
tho half-dozen handkerchiefs, and hurried off
her granddaughter into tho crowd. Certain
French writers of romance protend that, in
the maioritv of instances, the young girls of
Brittany and Auvercne who sell their hair
only do so under pressure of some dire dis
tress. Nothing is further from the truth. In
Brittany selling the hair is. as Chateaubriand
telLi us, as old as the Konian invasion
of Gaul, and tho custom may now bo
said to run in the blood. Tho stylo
Of coiffure couinioo there certainly con,
THE DAILY EVENING TELEGRAPH PHILADELPHIA, FRIDAY,
reals the absence of the customary . tressos,
bnt even if it did not, no one would think any
the less of the poor shorn lamb. At Mont
lncon. again, girls who are betrothed soil
their hair, with the consent of thoir future
ppouscs, to provide thomsolvos with tho
wedding trousseau. And even well-to-do far
mers' wives, in a spirit of prudence, will at
tunes part with their hair for a serviceable
dress. Breton hair being so highly prized for
its fineness, it in not on fete days alone that
dealers display their tempting wares and
drive hard bargains with the hesitating fair.
All the year round, peddlers, with packs of
showy cotton prints on their backs, tramp
from village to village, trying to tempt tho
hundreds of irls they meet on tho highway,
tending pigs and cows, to part with thoir
flaxen or raven locks for glossy looking rod
and yellow cotton handkerchiefs worth about
a frano each.
In the towns, it is tho hair-dressers who in
sinuate to all the young girls that they give
as much as twenty francs a pound for long
black hair this is the market price through
out the north of Brittany; but as female labor
is better paid in these parts, commanding
about a franc a day without board, they do
only a moderate amount of business, and this
chiefly with girls who have to lose their hair
for sanitary reasons, and, when they aro
forced to sacrifice it, think they may as well
get from ten to fifteen francs for it from tho
hair-dresser. The average value of a head of
hair xitr pi(d that is to say, not as it stands,
but rather as it grows is ton francs. Tho
finest crop, reaching far below tho waist,
hardly ever weighs a pound or commands tho
coveted golden napoleon. Years ago, beforo
the era of railways, tho hair merchant used to
barter not merely handkerchiefs, but caps,
ribbons, littlo shawls, scarfs, and plated ear
rings for a head of hair; but nowadays when
hair is more in demand, and young girls or
their guardians have come to know more of its
value, he must be prepared to pay money in
the towns if ho hopes to reap a handsome
crop.
In Auvergne, which is quite out of tho or
dinary tourist's lino of ronto, and is, as a
couple of maiden lathes, whom wo met last
year travelling in bearch of tho economical,
in preference to tho picturesque, confidently
assured us, the only part of Franco not over
run by English, and, consequently, tho only
part where living is really cheap in Au
vergne the itinerant dealer in human hair
does business in a perfectly public fashion.
He makes a point of arriving in the villngo
on market-day or during tho annual fete,
and might be easily mistaken for tho travel
ling dentist or quack doctor, who extracts
teeth or extols the healing quality of his
drugs to the gaping peasants assembled in the
market-place.
At Ambert, St. Autheme, Arlant, Olliar
gues, and liiom, their eal triolets and booths,
surmounted by littlo tricolor Hags, aro hud
dled together in the midst of the egg and
butter stalls, and grouped around them will
be peasant girls with baskets of fruit and
vegetables, accompanied by thoir parents or
their husbands; and all ready to sacrifice their
locks to the highest bidder. At Issiugeaux,
on market-days, the sight is exceedingly
picturesque. Tho hair-merchant takes his
stand on a low platform or wine-cask turned
on end in front of a booth formed of canvas
and a few planks, and with his shirt-sleeves
rolled up to his shoulders, invites the women,
in a loud voice, to step up and show their hair.
Around him aro a crowd of men and women
in sabots from tho surrounding country, como
to soil either a cow, a pig, or a. couplo of
fowls, the women dressed in a short serge
petticoat and cotton apron, with a cap oi
a colored handkerchief bound round thoir
head in winter, and in summer wearing a
broad-brimmed straw hat; the men in short
apple-green cloth jackets and largo felt hats,
similar to those worn by tho privileged por
ters at the Talis market.
One by one tho girls will mount platform
or winecask, and throwing asido their cap.i
will loosen their tresses and
"Shower their rippling ringlets to the knee."
Tho hair-dealer makes a rigid examination,
followed by an oiler, and as soon as a bar;' tin
is struck the girl steps inside tho booth, and in
live minutes the dealer s assistant win nave
cropped her close, when off sho will rni
amidst the laughter and jeers of tho crowd,
... . 1 T i. 4-1.
wnicu, nowever, cioos not preveuu mo io-
mainder of the girls in the village ironi 10'.
lowing her example.
It sometimes happens, bowever, tnnt me
young men of the place, who sometimes look
. . . l X 1. - n.
upon tne nair merennni wim uo Kiuuiy eya,
will commence assailing him before he has
succeeded in packing up his traps and do
camping. He then has to trust to his horse
to carry bun oeyonn me reaca oi ine en
raged swains.
Mud, stones, rotten eggs, and every kind of
filth at hand fall in showers upon the hood of
his shabby cabriolet; but, being tolerably
accustomed to this sort of thing, he takes
care to be provided with an excellent horso,
which soon places him beyond the reach of
the mob, and next day he will sustain the
principal part in much the same scene in somo
adjoining village.
In Normandy most of the girls have their
hair cut very short, with the exception of tho
chignon, over which theycoquottishly arrange
their high caps, which, like the Brittany
coiffure, so completely covers the head that
they appear to have lost, or rather sold,
nothing at all.
AVhen tho hair merchant has finished his
tournec in the provinces, ho takes his mer
chandise to Paris or some other largo town,
where he sells it, at prices varying from
twenty to a hundred francs the pound, to
dealers who, after preparing it, make it up
into chignons, curls, bandeaux, nattes, etc.
On visiting one of tho largest of these esta
blishments, we found the four walls of tho
sale-room lined round with shelves, reaching
from the floor to the ceiling, on which were
piled up chignons upon chignons of all quali
ties and all shades of color, from raven black
to the most delicate blonde, done np in packets
of six, the smallest number sold by the houso,
which does no retail trado. Half-a-dozen
assistants were executing orders which cus
tomers gave in person, or which had been re
ceived thut morning by post from the travel
lers of the firm. In an adjoining warehouse
the raw material was lying in heaps upon tha
floor beside scores of young women, who were
sorting and weighing out tho chignons of tho
future, allowing so many grammes for ono
sort and ho many for another. Tho jtlaeo, i:i
fact, was redolent of hair. There was hair
in all tho drawers, hair in cardboard boxes,
hair honging from the ceiling and clinging 1 1
the walls, hair upon the counters, upon th.j
chairs, and in the very inkstand; there wa
even hair in the air itself, moving about as it
were in clouds, which when you agitated them
disogreeably caressed you.
Most of tho hair, wo learned, reachos tho
establishment in bulk, in largo sacks, each
holding about a couple of hundred weight.
It is first of all subjected to a thorough wash
ing in boiling water, to remove all tho grease
and other impurities, after which it is placed
itt fl kutll of potash, and, then thoroughly dried,
The ftVioUS tressos are now sorted roughly
according to their length and shade, then
rtlmt is called in technical language the eoel
nage takes place. This consists in separating
the principal hicks of the Bnme tress that do
not rescmblo each other closoly in shade.
Then comes the reenrrage or equalizing of
the upper ends of each tress, after which a
second and more careful sorting ensues, and
the hair is arranged in bundles weighing from
ten to twelve pounds each, to undergo a new
series of operations.
First of all tho hair is taken in small hand
fuls by the workmen, who powder it tho
roughly with flour; it then receives a vigorous
combing upon iron carders, after which a
Recond canler comes to the assistance of tho
first and holds the hair tightly while it is
pulled out in lengths, of which the longest
are separated first. The final operation to
which it is subjected is stylod the ddentage,
and consists simply in again combing it upon
carders of extreme fineness. False tressos
are now formed by mixing togother, in cer
tain proportions, hair of tho same tint and
slightly varying in length. To arrange a
grand chignon the hair-worker will at times
employ the spoils derived from tho heads of
no less than thirty women.
Our hair-dealer was careful to assure us
that all the stories told about hair cut from
dead bodies being worked up into chignons
were devoid of truth. "Hair thus obtained,"
ho said, "is too brittle to bo curled or twisted
into proper form; and as for 'gregarines,'
these may exist," he observed, "in lineman
chignons made from hair proourod from tho
dirty Mordwino and Burlake peasant women,
but 1 never beard a duly autiieuticated 11
stance of their being detected in French
chignons.
"Not a lock of Russian hair comes to France
except oa Muscovite heads. We get, by way,
of Marseilles, a largo quantity of hair from
Italy, chiefly from Sicily, Naplos, and the
Papal Stales you remember about tho young
llomon girl who sold her hair to buy the Pope
a Zouave and a moderate quantity from Aus
tria, Bohemia, Belgium, and Spain, across tho
frontiers, but our principal supplies are home
ones, and chiefly come from Brittany, Air
vergne, Artois. and Normandy, and in a loss
degree lrom ljanguedoc, lamousin, l'oitou,
and Bourbonnais. Wo count tho Breton hair
the most valuable of all by reason of its ex
treme fineness, and from its having boon
covered up in tho large caps the peasants wear
during its most active period ol growth, lrom
its never having been previously curled, but
simply rolled up 111 bands, and anally because
:t has rarely even been combed 1" Auvergnat
hair our merchant pronounced to be too
coarse to use alone, though it worked np very
well mixed with other kinds, hpanish hair,
good enough in itself, was too decidedly
black, too sombre, to suit ordinary complex
ions; it was therefore requisite to mix this
also, to soflcn it, in fact, with hair of a more
delicate shade; tho same with tho tow-like tint
of the Flemish hair, which had to be made
more sunny-looking by the addition of Ger
man hair of a richer blonde. Neapolitan hair,
we were informed, was but little esteemed in
the trade, a circumstance at which wo were
surprised, as tho hair of tho Caprian peasant
women, which is dark, lustrous, long, and
massively rippled, is among tho fiuest in tho
world. The particular German hair from
which tho chignons of the tender age termed
angel's blonde are made, commands, it seems,
the hiihost price of all.
The long hair pulled out of ladios' heads by
tho comb, and which in Paris is thrown every
morning on tho rubbish heaps of tho city, is
carefully picked up ogain by tho chilfonniers
and sold by them for making what is called
tetes-et-piniitc, that is, the cheap curl or tuft
of hair, the roots of tho individual hairs com
posing which aro not all at one end. Nothing
in the way of hair would appear to be wastod;
that of a bad shade of color is dyed, generally
black, and even the clippings, which the hair
dressers can turn to, no other account, are sold
by them to lo manufactured into perukes and
chignons for the more expensive class of wax
dolls.
One has spoken of chignons at lSOO francs,
but this is of course a purely exceptional
price; arising first of all tvyiu tUo noci'-ira1
color of the hair, namely, a bright gold shade;
secondly, from its great length nearly three
and a half foet and thirdly, from its bulk
and its extreme fineness, to combine all
which necessitates a single chignon being
carefully selected from an immense stock of
hair, several hundredweight, in fact.
When this golden-tinted hair was tho rago
in Paris, and women, in despair of otherwise
acquiring it, powdered their heads with gold,
a hair-dresser of the Hue Vivionno exhibited
in his window a chignon formed entirely of
the finest gold thread, and the price of which
was 1000 francs; but whether ho ever manu
factured more than this sample aureate chig
non, or persuaded a single fair ono to parade
these veritable golden locks, we are unable to
say. At the present time about 250 franus
appears to ' be the average Paris price for -a
superior chignon of an ordinary tint, and
from twelve to seventy francs for tho com
moner article.
We all know that the wearing of false hair
by beauties in their prime dates back ante
rior to the Christian era, and that Ovid
speaks of tho German slaves' hair with which
the Boman women sought to enhance thoir
j charms, going publicly to make their pur
chases at the shops of the Gallic hair-mer-
chants situate near the Temple of the Muses,
; and under the peristyle of the Temple of
' Hercules. Tho chignon, however, has only
. been known under its present name since
. about the time when "coiffeurs" themselves
first came into vogue, in tho middle of the
eighteenth century. Up till that period
there had been only barbers and porruquiors,
the former of whom shaved and bled thoir
customers, while tho latter merely cut hair
and manufactured wigs, so that ladies
were obliged to have their hair
dressed by their fontits do chanibre.
Gradually tho race of coiffeurs arose to per
form this intricate operation, and as a ma tor
of course trenched on tho privileges of tin
perruquiers, for they cut hair as well as drcsse 1
it. Erelong a storm of discontent ensued,
and an action that kept all Paris in a formonfc
for months was brought by tho perruquiers
against the coiffeurs, who had tit this time in
creased to'll'00 in number, for illegally in
fringing on thoir rights. Tho coiffours pleaded
in their defense that the dressing of ladies'
hair was a "liberal art," and therefore foreign
to the profession of porruquier. "Wo have,''
said they, with ludicrous consequentially, "to
embellish nature and correct its deficiencies.
It is our task to reconcile tho color of the hair
with the tint of tho complexion, so as to en
hance the beauty of tho lattor; to grasp with
taste tho varieguted shades of the trosses,
and so dispose the shadows as to give more
hpirit to the countenance, heightening the
tone of the skin by the auburn tint of tho
locks, or subduing its too lovely splendor by
the neutral shade which we communicate to
the tresses." Thanks to the influenco exer
cised by the fair sex, tho coiffours gained tho
day, and, elated with their victory, proceeded
to form a corporation, baptizing themselves
"Academicivus do la Coiffure et do J Mode,"
at which piece of presumption the French
Academy itself took umbrage, and Paris was
Biuumni uy a new trial. This time the coin ours
were beaten, whereupon they modestly stylod
themselves "profoss irs." a tlouicmtit inn t.hev
were permitted to retain, as tho profossors of
the French collr.
Academicians, entered no protest against thoir
inm Jllllg lillS 11110.
Nowadays hairdressors stylo themselves in
discriminately profossors and artists, and have
vw..n,wuui iMnuiu exiiiuiiiouH line Obiier
fwnm9 wim llUB uiriereuce, However, luat
thev invito Hia TmLi; nnin fh,i;A y
result of their labors but to witness thorn pro-
uuce ineir masterpieces. In Paris those ex
hibitions take place regularly at the Salle
Molicre, and imitations of thorn have more
iimu onco ncen given at tue Hanover Squaro
llooms. A most ravishing picture is pre
sented at tho moment, wlinn Ilia nWiuf
his hand generally trembling with emotion
in. uio uiunui vi me operation unaoos tne
band that Confines fho hair nf tlin ln1r nrlr
submits her tressos to his manipulative skill.
a nionuo, annum, orown, or jet-black ava
lanche suddenly descends, enveloping tho
rounaeu suouidors ot the fair one like a
rich silken mantlo. Gradually, beneath the
dexterous filllrni-a nf tlin ortiut oil tliino o
-5 - - .uu l . . . 1 1' j c. uuunv a2
Calcitrant tressos are crnthpri'il iinmul rrrnnnml
with consummate skill according to some par-
- VI " v 1 n n., nui.u nn iiiu i(tnniv;,
the I.niliu OllntnT7 flin 1'iuiinn.tmr (lio W.,t
teau, the Premier Pas, the Caprico, the Hiron-
.1.11- . , . . . L . . 7 . .
ueue, or me r-mpire. iAmton ffocifTif.
CITY ORDINANCES.
MMON COUNCIL OP PHILADELPHIA
CI.RKK'S UKKICB,
Philadelphia, .hum y.v 1SA9 f
In accordance with a Kesolutlon adopted by the
Common Council of tho City of Philadelphia, ot
Thursday, tho twenty-fourth day of June, 1809, the
annexed bill, entitled
"An Ordinance to Authorize a Loan for the Pay
ment w orounii items and mortgages," is Hereby
imimanuu 1 or puunu miormauon.
JOHN ECKSTEIN,
Clerk of Common Council.
AN ORDINANCE
To Authorize a Loan for the Paymon
Ground Rents and MortKaifes.
Modioli 1. The 8eleet and Common Councils of the
City of Philadelphia do ordain. That tho Mayor of
Philadelphia be and ho Is hereby authorized to bor
row, at not less man par, on tne credit or tne city,
from time to tine, seven hundred thoiunml dollars
for the payment of grouail rents nnd mortimcres hel
against the city, for which Interest not to exceed the
rate of six per cent, per annum shall be paid, half
yearly, on the first days of January and July, at tho
omce 01 tne city Treasurer, tho principal or sal
loan shall be payable and paid at the expiration of
thirty years rrom tne uato or tne same, and not be
fore, without the consent of the holders thereof ; and
tne certuieates tncreror, in tne usual rorm or tne cer
tillcatcs of city loan, nil ill I be Issued In such amounts
as the lenders may require, but not for any fraction!) 1
part of one hundred dollars, or, if required, iu
umouuin 01 live nunureu or one inousauii dollars
and it shall be expressed In said certificates that the
loan therein mentioned and the Interest thereof aro
payable free from all taxes.
Section 2. Whenever any loan shall be mado by
virtue tnereor : mere snau be, iy force or tins ordi
nance, annually appropriated out of the Income of
the corporate estates, and from the sum raised by
taxation, a sum sulticient to pay the interest on said
certificates, and the further sum of three-tenths of
one per centum on tho par value of such certificates
so issued snail he appropriated quarterly out of said
income ami tuxes 10 a Bulking niuu. wmcn rum
and its accumulations are hereby especially pledged
lor tue redemption auu paymeut 01 said certiu
euies.
RESOLUTION TO ri'BMSIT A LOAN BILL.
Resolved, That the Clerk of Common Council be
authorized to publish In two daily newspapers of
this city, dally for four weeks, the ordinance pre
sented to the Common Council on Thursday, Juno
S i, 1SC9, entitled "An Ordinance to Authorize a Loan
for the Payment of Ground Rents ami Mortgages."
And the said Clerk, at the stated meeting of Coun
cils after the expiration of four weeks from the
first day of said publication, shall present to
this Council one of each of said newspapers for
every day hi which the same shall have been
made. 6 '26 24t
LOOKING GLASSES, ETC
E
SIABLISUGD 179 5.
A. S. ROBINSON.
FRENCH PLATE LOOKER-GLASSES,
ENGRAVINGS,
EttAUTlFUL CHROMOS,
PAINTINGS,
Manufacturer of all kinds of
LOOKING-GLASS,
PORTRAIT, AND PICTURE FRAMES.
NO. 910 CIIESNUT STREET,
8 1 Fifth door above the Continental, PhUa.
j o ii h m i Tn;
LOOKTNti-GUlSS AND PICTUUE fKAItlB
MANUFACTURER,
BIBLE AND PRINT PUBLISHER,
And Wholesale Dealer In
AMERICAN AND FRENCH CLOCKS AND REGU
LATORS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.
Also, General Agent for the Bale of the "Eureka"
Patent Condensing CetTee and Tea Pota something
that every family should have, and by wlUya Uiej
Can save fifty per cent.
Trade supplied at a liberal discount
ltm No. 91 AltCII HTRKET.
CARPENTERS AND BUILDERS.
Rb R. THOMAS & CO.
DEALERS IN
Doors, Blinds, Sash. Shutters,
WINDOW FRAMES, ETC.,
K. W. CORKER OF
EIGHTEENTH and MARKET Street.
JJSra PHILADELPHIA.
QEORCE PLOWMAN
CARPENTER AND BUILDER,
gtjjg DOCK Street, PhlladejoUa
W I N D O WG LASS,
The subscribers ro manufacturing dally, 10.000 feet
best quality of
AMERICAN WINDOW OLAS
U'hey are alxo constantly receiving importation of
FRENCH WINDOW GLASS.
Kounh Plate and Ribbed Olnas, Enamelled. Stainof
Knt:rnved, and Uround Ulaaa, arhiuh Uiay offer at i . d
luuket latea.
EVANS, SHARP & WESTCOATT.
I 29 3m No. eiB MARKET Street, Phllada.
GROCERIES AND PROVISIONS.
jICIIAEL MEAGHER & O
No, 823 South SIXTEENTH Street,
Wholesale and Retail Dealori in
PROVISIONS.
OYSTERS, AND SAND CLAMS,
FOR FAMILY USB
TKRRAPIN3 ilB PER DOZEN. gaj
PATENTS.
STATE R1GIIT8 FOR SALE. STATE
Hia-hta of a Taluable Invention just pat anted, and for
the BL1U1NU, CUTTING, and OH fl'r-lNU of dned beef,
cabbage, eto., are hereby offered for aale. It ia an article
f great value to proprietor, of hotela and reatanranta.
ana it ehould be introduced into every family. t I A i h,
K it: HI S for aale. Model can be Men at TKLKUKAi'll
Ol1 HUK, COOPKR'tt i'OLNTi N. J.
W7 JiUNOY A HOFFMAN,
JULY 9, 18C9.
INSURANCE.
DELAWAUK MUTUAL oArKTY 1N3U
RANCF. COMPANY. Iooorported bf th
Utnr of l'nnylTni, IK.
Oflio, 8. E. comer of THIRD tod WALNUT BtreeU,
MARINK INNUKANCF.fl .
On VmmIi, Cirpo, and Kroijrht to all parti of the world.
On Kooda by river, eanal, lalin, and land carriage to u
parta nr tne union.
Fl KK INHUKANCKR
On Merchandise (enerallr i .on Bturee, Dwellings, Houses,
AS8FTN OF THE OOMPAKT.
November I. 1MSS.
1 200,000 UnlUd BUtee Fie Per cent. Loan,
HH.1. $308,600-00
130.000 Unilnd Slates bix Per Cent. Loae,
IHHl 136,800 00
50,0(10 United States Hit Per Cent. Loan
(for Paoilio Kailroad) oO.OfWOO
SUO.OOO State of I'ennsyliania hi Per Cent. .
Loan :. 811,37506
136,000 City of Philadelphia Hit Per Cent.
Loan (eiempt from Ui) 138,5!H'00
60,000 BUte of Mew Jersey Six Por Cont. . M
Loan Sl.BOOvO
80,000 Penn. ttail. First Mortao 811 Per
Cent.. Honda 7 80.2JO OO
8S.000 Penn. Kail. Hioond Alort. Hlx Per
Cent. Honda 31,000 00
36,000 Wextern Penn. Kail. Mnrtvasn Kix
Per Cent. Honda (Penn. liailread
guarantee) 30,62oOO
30,000 State of Tonnnssee Five Per Cent.
Loan 31,000 000
7.000 State of Tennessee Blx Per Cent.
Iaa 8,031'35
16,000 Gerniantawn (5aa Company, prin
cipal and Intoi-oat Kuttrnntend by
Cily of Philadelphia. BOO share
RUK-k 15,0-KVCO
1(1,000 Pennsylvania Railroad Company, 300
eliaroa Stork 11,300'uO
6,008 North Pennsylvania Railroad Co., lUO
v, . eharee Stock tfiWttO
30,(00 Phihidolllllia and Hout.hnrn Mail
o,w w i Steamship Co., W slmres Stock. ... 15,00000
WI.VW lana on Hoard and Mortano, Urst
, Lien on City Properties l7,fl00.00
tu,10,800 Par. Market value, $1,130,326-25
. Coat. tl.083.HO4
Itea! Fatate... 3.noo-flO
ijiiia receivable for inaurance made 82J,4x it4
lialanoe. due at agenniea, prrmiuiua on murine
pnlioiea, accrued interest, and other dubta due
tlieeompany 40,178-88
Dtork and aorin of aundry corporation., $315.
KKtimated value 1,813 00
J, !' in l!K,,k ll,lfi0H8
Oeeli in drawer il3 ij5 116,5t3-73
$1.647,n)7-ttO
Thomaa O. Hand.
John C. Davla,
Jamea (!. Hand,
1 heophilua Paulding,
Joaeph H. Seal,
Hugh Craig,
John K. Penrose.
Jacob P. .Until,
Jnmes Trnouair,
Kdward Darlington,
H. Jonea Hrooke.
Jamea B. McKariand,
Kdward Latourcude,
DlBKCTOHfl.
r.mnunti A. noudor,
Kumiiel K. Htokea,
llonry Sloan,
William C. Ludwig,
(ioorge ii. lieiper,
Henry O. Iiillett, Jr.,
John U. Taylor,
(eorge W. Kernntlou,
William U. kJoullon,
Jacob Kiegel.
Sponcor Mcllvnino,
1. T. Morgan, I'ittehurg,
uoun it. rsemple,
'A. H. Hnrger, "
THOMAS (). IIAVli. Prnaldont.
uotuiua r. ivjro.
, ,r. JOHN C. DA Via, Vice-President.
1IFNRY I.VI.BURN, Secretary.
H KNKY BALL, Aaaintant Secretary. 10 8
1829 HARTBR PERPETUAL.
FranBln Fire Insurance Coapi
OF PIIIIADELPIIIA.
Office, Nos. 435 and 437 CHES2IUT St.
Assets onJai 1,1869, $2,677,37213
CAPITAL
ACCKUKD SURPLUS. . ,
PREMIUMS
UN8KTTLFD CLAIMS,
9100,000-00
l,M,.V2S-0
liL.i,i3'4j
INOOMK FOR
83t0,000.
Losses paliisliicel829,over$5,500,oaQ
Perpetual and Temporary Polioie. on Liberal Terms.
The Company auto iaHuea Policies on Rente ol Building
Of all kinds. Ground Rents, end Mortgagee,
DIRECTORS.
A 1 i --.-I
AlfredO. Baker.
Samuel Grunt,
C eorge W. Richards,
laaae Lea.
Thomo. Sparks,
William 8. Crant,
Thomaa H. Ellis,
fihlMtjLVllH A Ititnutn
Ueorge eles.
ALFRKD O. KAKKR. Prmirlttnt
UKOKUK FAlilCS, Vice-President.
JAS. W. MoAI.Ll 8TK It, Secretary. "-""
1UKODOKK M. KKUKR. Aaaiatant Beorotary. 8
A S B U R Y
LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY.
No. 201 BROADWAY, corner READE Street, New York.
CASH CAPITAL .....ljti.uw)
$lai,000 deposited with the State of New York as security
for policy holders.
I.FMUKI'j BANfiS, President.
3EORGE KLLIOTT . Vice-President and Secretary.
Jt.MOUY Mt-CUNTOCK, Aotuary,
A. E. M. PimbY, M. D., Medical Examiner.
BKFEKKNCEH BY PEHMlMtJION.
ThomM T. Tanker, John M. Maris, J. JJ. Llppincott,
Cnarlea Spencer, William Divine, Jamea Ing,
John A. Wright, 8. Morris Wain, James Hunter,
Arthur G. Coffin, John B. McOreary, K. H. WoriiA
In the character of its Director., economy of miinatre
Wont, reasonableness of ratos. PARTNERSHIP PtAN
OK DECLARING DIVIDENDS, no restriction iu female
lives, and absolute non-forfeiture of all policies, and no
restriction of travel alter the first year, the ASBuRy pre
sents s combination of advantage, offered by no other
company. Policies issued in every form, and a loan of
one-third made when desired.
Special advantages ottered to clergymen.
For all further information address
JAMES M. LONRAORK,
Manager for Pennsylvania and Delaware.
Office. No. a WALNUT Street, Philadelphia.
FORMAN P. 11ULLINSHEAD. SpeciaAgent. 4 16
STRICTLY MUTUAL
Provident Life and Trust Co.
OF PHILADELPHIA.
OFFICE, No. Ill 8. FOURTH STREET.
Organized to promote LIFE INSURANCES among
members of the Society of Friends.
Good rlHka of any clang accepted.
Policies burned oa approved plans, at the lowest
rates.
President. SAMUEL R. BhTPLEY,
Vice-President, WILLIAM. C. LONOSTRKTH,
Actuary, ROWLAND PARRY.
The advantages offered by this Company are an
MHselled. 81 27
JNSUltE AT HO iTls,
IN TBM
Penn tea! Life Insurance
COMPANY,
No. 921 CHESNTJT STREET, PHILADELPHIA.
ASWETH, 84,000,000.
CHARTERED BY OUR OWN 8TATE.
MANAGED BY OUR OWN CITIZENS.
LOSSES PROxVPTL-Y PAID.
POLICIES ISSUED ON VARIOUS PLANS.
Applications may be made at the Home Oince, and
at the Agencies throng nout the State, a is
JAMES Tit AWT AIR PRESIDENT
MA VI II I. E. STOKES VIOK PRES1DKNT
JOHN W. HOK1SOR A. V. P. and ACTUARY
HOUATIO S. STEPHENS SBUKKTARir
npHE ENTERPRISE INSURANCE COMPANY1
-I OE PHILADELPHIA. vuvu.uriUU
Office S. W. Corner FOURTH and WALNUT Streak
KIKE INSURANCE EXCLUHIVE1 Y 8t
PERPETUAL AND TERM POLICIES ISSUED
Cash Capital Hi -Win arm
Caah AawU, May, lHtat, OVER HALE A ' MILUON
DIHECVOKS,
F. Ratchford Bturr.
J. Livingston Krrlnger.
.tun.... I. " '
Nalbio Jf'raaier,
John M. Atwood,
Benjamin T. Tredick,
lieorge H. Stuart.
...,., ii i,..u..
W'illittin (1. lioulion,
Charlea Wheeler,
Tbotua. H. Montgomery,
..,.., ,.u, ,,ium.cu,m naaa, taking no
aiwuially hazardous risks whatever, such as fauloilea.
This Company insure, only
flrat-claaa riaka, taking no
E. RATCHKORD STARR, President.
THOM AS H. MONTGOMERY, Vice-President
AUIAHnm W. WiBTt.li, Secretary. ""'wumfc
P II GRNIX INSURANCE COMPANY OF
A PHILADELPHIA. -INCORPORATED
1H04-OHARTER PERPETUAL.
No. X WALNUT Street, opposite the Exohanae.
This Company insures from lima or damage by
EIRE,
on liberal terms, on building., merchandise, furniture,
etc., far limited periods, and puruiaueutly on building, hi
deposit ol preiniuina. '
The Company has been In aetive operation for more than
BIXTV YKAftK, during which all Josses nave bw2
prompt UJU"M Sectors.
John L. Hodge,
lMviff Tjiwfe.
M. E. Maliouy,
John T. I-ewin,
W illiam S. Grant,
benjamin Ktting,
Thomas H. Powers.
A. K. MuHenry,
Edmund Casitllon.
Kaniiiul w,i
p. Clark WhavUin,
Koliert w. .earning,
lwreuc14His,Jr.. lwiu. Ntirris.
lowiaO. Ntirris
.lyiin k. WUWiiBJUaL President.
INSURANCE.
rpilE PENNSYLVANIA FIRE INSUIUNG.
. TnroiTnrtd lttlft-Charter Perpetnal.
No. 510 W A I.N UT Strent, opnoaite Indepentlenoe Hnnar
Thi. Company, favorably known to the community
over forty yoara, continue. tolnnre agamat loaa or dnma
by Hreon Public or Private Hui dintta, either nermaiien'
or ftr a limited time. Also on I nrnitnre, Kt-ock. oi Uoot
and Merchandlae generally, on liberal terma.
Their Capital, together with a large 8iirpln Kon1, la I
vented In the moat careful ninaner. which enable. uem
oft..r to the iMured an undoubted .eonrity In the eaee .
loaa.
Daniel Smith. Jr..
John Pevereng, j
1'bomas Hmtt h.
Henry liSwia,
.1 ;,ll.nh.m Fall. '
Alexander Kenaon,
Isaac llsrlnhnrst,
1 noma. Houtna,
K.nlnt TTnrlrtnrk.'.Ir. -
DANIEL SMITH, Ja.i President
WM. O. rnOWKM,, Sorretsry. SM
OFFICE OF THE INSURANCE COMPAN
OE NORTH AMERICA, No. 23 WALNUT 8tre!
Fhiladolphia. . t
incorporated 17M. Oharter Perpetual. I
Capital, 8500,OUU.
Asset.
MARINE, INLAND. AND F1RK INSURANCE.
OVER jao.OOO.OiH) LOSSES PAID SINGH ITS OROAJ
IZATION.
AHhnr O. Coffin.
WMCTO. ,
hnmncl W. Jones,
Joiin A. Brown,
Charlea Tfiylnr,
Ambrose White,
William Welsh,
K. Mnrria Wain,
John Mason,
tieora-a L. llnrrimn.
rranei. k. unpe,
Eiiward H. Trotter,
Edward H. Clarke,
T. Charlton Henry,
Alfred D. Jenp.
John P. White,
Ixiuis O. Mattoira,
Charlea W. Umtnman.
ARrrUTIt O. HOFFI??, Pr-vlnt..'
Cll A KLI'.S PLA1 T. Vtoe Prvnittont. '
Bf ATTTTIA8 MAHIH, Set'Tetsry. a 1
JAirKIAL liltB INSUliANOJB OC
I1NPON. I
estabt.i.sjh:d jmoj.
Fald-np Capital and Accumulated Panda, I
&,000,000 IN GOLli
PEEV0ST & HERRING, Agents,
2 4 No. 10T 8. THIRD Street, PhUaJelphln.
CnA8. M. PRKYOST. ' CITAS. P. HKRIirT
LUMBER,
18G9
SPRUCE JOIST.
(SPRUCE JOIST.
H I'M LOCK.
180
HEMLOCK.
1 K(M SEASONED CLEAR PINE. 1Q.
lOUJ SEASONED CLEAR PINW I Hi l
- " 1
SPANISH CEDAR, FOR PATTEilNS. I
18G9
FLOHIDA FLOOHINQ-.
FLORIDA FLOOINt.
CAROLINA I LOOUINC?.
VIRGINIA FLOORING.
DELAWARE. 1LOORLNU.
ASH FLOORING.
WALNUT HOORING.
FLORIDA STEP BOARDS.
RAIL PLANK.
1861
1(!C, WALNUT h)$. AND PLANK. -to H
XOVd WALNUT BOS. AND PLANK. lOU!
WALNUT BOARDS. 1
WAUiUf PLANK.
UNDERTAKERS' LUMBER. tQni
lOKJU UNDERTAKERS' LTTMKft-.li Inlll
ltini t'litiu
WALNUT AND PINE.
18G9
SEASONED POPLAR,
SEASONED CHERRY.
180
WHITE OAK PLANK AND BOARDS.
TftTYo ClOAR 110X MAKERS' TcFc
SPANISH CEDAR BOX BOARDS.
FOR SALE LOW. v-,xw"3'
IK ( CAROLINA SCANTLING. iO'f
lOUt CAROLINA II T Slt.IS lnll
NORWAY 8CANTLING.
3
18G9
CKDAK SHINGLES. lOT7?
OYPRES.S SHINGLES. lOUi
J15
AlAULli. BROTHER ft CO.,
No. 20UO SOUTH Street.
CSLPR X, n D n t u r ni
aa - ii (. a i.
U. S. BUILDERS' MILL, j
"sT e O A OA MH J rtr M TirnmnwMMw .
vo. i, aiiuajo . xjuuu ia. s
We offer this season te the trade a larger and mo:
superior stock ol .
Wood Mouldings, Brackets, Balusters!
.Newell Posts, Etc.
. . . mrtjtiu seteouon ot Hiohiffai
Lumber, from the mills direct, and we Invite bnilder. anj
Th. ejult la m.1s rM . . . . . . 1
v .usaiiiuu it ueiora purcnastng elsewhere.
m Turning and Bcroll Work in all it. varieties. 6 6 2m
T UMBER UNDER COVER
ALWAYS DRY.
WATSON & GILLI?tGHAF.7j
8 20 No. 924 RICHMOND Street. J
T)ANEL PLANK, ALL TitlCKNESSES. J
X 1 COMMON PLANK, ALL THICKNESSES. i
1 COMMON BOARDS. 1
1 and 2 SIDE FENCE BOARDS. J
v.MTill.'JfiPIJVK PLOORINO BOAR OS. I
.iTr'k001118' n5
T Pi I Vth a ?enJtal aasortmont of Buildina Lumber.'
for sale low lor cash. q w hMAl.TZ 1
FIFTEENTH and I jTjLEjjug!. (
ENGINES, MACHINERY. ETOl
PENN STRiXf PVltVP vrrt
liZ 5 A ! :! 'OA L AND T H EO R ET K 1 A 11
In, mVn. . ""i ,UU Saving
oluwvelv engaged in building and repairiui MariT.nd
S'lt'. pKme h'h ,ud 'ow-preaaure, "iron Koiler., witei
lanka, Propeller., etp., etc,, reapeotfullv offer their ser
vice, to the public as being My prepared to contraot7
engines of all sues. Murine. River, and UtioaJ
sets of pattern, of d iterant. !. ' na
ordera with quick Jesi.atch. Every d.rtntiJfi? ,,'?a'
making made at tne anorte.t Police 'HiX
sure ine Tububir n4 1' jl,.c,8-.. "'H?
!?."! Tubular and jJmVe2,l$ AVhiS
aSiirtear. p- --.-"-- t. i
and Low-pres-
fn"d feSrrft -fn- Urging, of aU aiiei and
Penn
kindaJ
Screw OsTttin. v"i,n?? of .a" descriptiona. Roll Turnings
ibXbiS"' fcnd " other work connected with tnV
. f ,1.1"" nd Pecifleatlons for all work done at the
.ublishinent free of charge, and work guaranteed. a
1 he aubsenbera have ample wharf dock-roooi for repaint'
of boats, where they can he in perfect safety, sail are pro
vided with ahears, blook., falls, eto. eto., for raising heavs
or light weights. '
JACOB 0. WE A UK, I
JOHN P I KVV
8J5 BEACH and PALM ER Street
J I K R I C K A s 6 N a
SOUTIIWAHK FOUNDRY, I
, No. 430 WASHINGTON AVENUE, Phfltvlelphla.
. WILLIAM WRIGHT'S PATENT VARIABLB 1
CUT-OFF STEAM ENGINE, f
Regnloted. by the Governor.
1 MERRICK'S SAFETY HOISTING MACHINE, I
Patented June, 1668. i
DAVID JOT'S '?
PATENT VALVELL'SS STEAU IIAJL.MEH.
D. M. WESTON'S i
PATENT PELP-CENTHING, NFLF-Pr lv,-iV,
CNTRLVUGAL BUUAwiiAxNffl
HYDRO EXTRACTOR, i
For Cotton or Woollen Manufacturera t m
IVinflUHUDDUirw . in w i
COUTIIWARK FOUNDRY. FIFTlT
O WABHUMOTON Btm.t ' AI
PHILADKLPHU.
ENGINKKKlj AND MACubjITS
mann.factnre High and low Fmunr. k, f
Uitd, River, and Marine KeTvU " bUMLm -Winee fo
feafitlK
rol'dhte." '' G- Workano, and Ea
locators. Filters, Pii.i.imr EuVineaeto "'
Kole Asenta for N. llilluux'a P..n. u.'. n ...
ratj;,,Nf.iiiyth'. Patent hteain Uarem ami a" i Pp;
AWoobey's P.tent CentxUugal
9ui
Q I R A 17 D TUDE VORK3".
JOHN II. MURPHY & BROS
Manufciurer. of Hr.u.ht Iron Kt.
PUUDELPHIA, PA.
WORKS,
TWENTY.TiUUD ,d FILBERT r4treM..
"uriUK, ...
Worth FIFTH Street. '
D
R. KINKEL1N CAN BE CONSmTTTTT 1
. IJLdJ'WB.0! L'.aln spellV, : oSHE. W
S4EBI
. . - Bweeti