The evening telegraph. (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, June 08, 1866, FOURTH EDITION, Page 6, Image 6

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    TEE DAILY EVEIMISG HLKilUl B. PHILADELPHIA, F1UDAY, JUKE 8, 180G.
THE WORLD OF FASHION.
hKKLE DAMK l. JXC1EST 1'MKI.
The Ton of Old Times.
In nil aep vomnn n ratber what mnn make
her than what poets dream or painters Imaum".
The attracti n ot the exe does not become
more or let, like polit cal or religious creeds,
accotdingto the time when wider room Is made
for their action in the world. Men and women
xist for each other; and women In the days of
the Ron i an emperors, as to-riav, nted all their
lacnltiee and all their Ingenntty simply to please
men. We be literary women not to take
flense at our iftteroeiit. for It will bear a dis
passtomtte examination. The glrla of Boston or
XJew York are not more beautiful or ireeh than
were the girls of Pompeii: but are they not (list
s easer to look beaut iiul ?
We have yet to lenrn the A B C of Natnre, and
we believe tint she is lar wiser than any of the
philosophers, moralists, priests, or theologians
t our pious nineteenth cenutury. She kno ws
what she is about, and er nurds well the secret ol
her enchantments. And alio teaches women to
be women, as she teaches g rig how to be those
frail, delicate, untouched buds of loveliness,
which, like the succeeding springs of the eaith,
year after year, nmke Iresh under our eyea the
Virginity ot Beauty.
bo, in gently pushing open the door ot the
tlressine-rootu ot any wealth'1, lashionable
I'ompiliiii woman, we shall neither feel nor
show more iirprso at what we see there, than
if we were the priviledged intruder allowed to
look at, touch, and tumble the nameless knick
knacks and fancy articles that till the dressing
room o''our modern belles; since to day, as cen
turies ago. Fashion, with all its implements, is
but the accredited accomplice of Nature, and
serves her best when most successlulty it lends
its aid to complete in a woman's lace or figure
w hat JNutuie capriciously left imperfect.
Our social tonne beintr diffcrn! Irom those of
the days ot Pompeii, the pofitKn of woman in
poc:tt.v is also different, and n cessarily gives
her mucli more Influence. We have l'terary
women; they only had. here and v here, reading
women, like the daughter of Ovid, for instance,
whoss sweetness of character was not marred
by any rngulnnty or harsh, pclantio tone or
spirit. Our literary women, by i-oine unex
plained conjunction ol personal needs or losses,
hre too oltcn too inditlerent to the graces of
womanhood, and free from all the sweet necessi
ties of the womau-nature, to be aereablo. To
please does not seem to be the uppermost am
bition ot their natiue to be loved and admired
the end of their best efforts. Toey have entered
as competitors with men in the world of
letters, aud insist upon sharing the publicity
and the reputation of men. But those women
who are satisfied in simply being what women
can naturally be, and who, without lretlul scorn
lor what they cannot attain, or helpless vanity
In what they feebly imitate, accept their mere
womanliness as containing the infinite posii
bilities of their influence, will take interest in
tindine out with us the points of resemblance
between themselves and their sis.ers of dead
centuries.
The women of Pompeii lived a life exclusively
devoted to pleasure. Every demand ot soul
and spirit, every requirement of the intellect,
teems to have been sacrificed to achieving a
perlect blossoming of the senses. From what
we are allowed to witness with our eyes, in the
paintings and mosaics lately discovered, and,
irom what we must infer, not an inch of time
was given to fhe soul and its imperious needs,
and no room made for it to expand in; but the
Jihysical lite, the revelry of the flesh, the abso
ute Intoxication of voluptuousness, tyrannized
over every moment, and appropriated every hour
of a woman's lite.
We must remember how different is our do
mestic economy irotrj that oi those days. We
are not told that any of the problems of that
vexed "Bridget question" diturbed the placid
case of the mistresses of houses. Servants
then were slaves, a net. as such, unquestioning,
willing, competent ministers to the luxurious
habits of wealthy women. Those servants were
skilful waiting maids, tilling around their mis
tms the double orlice of confidantes and ser
vants. And so admirab y adiu&ted were the sepa
rate elements of that sjsicm of home-service,
that not one of the eervauts interfered with the
work ol the other, or mistook her special duty,
but rather, by her own punctilious to.itine and
exactitude, helped to render each returning day
a day of untroubled eae, and every hour an hour
of new delight, to the queen-woman, who thought
of nothing else but how to please her favorite
admirer.
Then, as now, women used adroit secresy in
making their persons objects ol special Hudy and
critical examination. Every line, or mark, or
wrinkle, was attentively tracked with a jealous
eye, aud most killully concealed. Rougc3, pow
der, pa nt, washes, and ointments all that art
eyer devit ed and coiubiued to lepulr the destroy
lug touch of time was used, as it la used now.
1 ndced, our Lubins and our Rimmels, with their
world-renowned delicious perf umes au3 essences,
Tail to furnish us wiih such profusion of lucent
oils and aromatic washes as lormed then the
requisites lor the toilets of women of fashion.
The utmost vnlue being set on a smooth,
milky-white, satin-like skin, it bscame the chief
endeavor ot every woman to preserve her com
plexion. To this end, t athina- was constantly
resorted to. What nobody ever omits doing
before leaving the bed room the wa hins of
face and hands was to the Poaipeian woman
not merely a half hour's or an hour's work, but
was the chief occupation of her moruiuii. Sue
baihed 1 ixuriouslv in warm, scented baths of
Htses' milt, she bathed till her whole body
was as smoothly sol.-skinued a? the petal of a
flower, and her hauds, her arms, her bosom, and
her limbs were rarde supple with excess of lan
guid renose. One cannot help seeing anew the
Venus Aphr. di e coming out of the tnaic 'oara,
when re niiug about those luir women, so fair
and so wemuu like!
itseenis that the ubsence of activity and labor
in lie nan .l". ?' women- nPrD,?P.8. tbo
auseuce oi miiii'v resionJ9ii,ne wt t
dignity, made abundant room lor " ..'"' !
SS!!?1' atiK--: et. whictttd o'
. r o every morning, occupied half the
For, on awakeuinii the lady of fashion
eaile.l her naves to her bedside, and had herself
more etlectuaily aroused by various manipula
tions and applications, at wh'ch our implacable
individual independence would simply revoH.
First, the lady must have her lace carefully
washed, before any man's ee Is alloyed to
glance at her. Sleep alone has no so unbar
moui.ed aud disturbed tb color ari'J J'.'stro'-eu
the iounine? of those checks, or made ho.,t
eyelids hang so heavily over eyes not yut br'u
iiant. The paste of bread and milk, which was
o carefully spread all over the fuce last night,
has to fee removed in such a way that not the
slUhtcfct redness or irritation of the skin shall
remain. When that is effected, the teeth are re
placedfor they had artificial teeth in thos
days the eyebrows are artistically pencilled,
and the lipsj and cheeks, it necessary, staiued
with the bloom ot youth.
Roman ladies understood as well as our
women, that the clurm of art is to remain
unseen and unsuspected. Therefore, none but
their own personal attendan's were allowed near
them during tbe elaborate process ol the toilet
"Yet, men would find out; meu would know; men
would tee, what was intended to bo so well con
e-en leei. ah tne Koman poets become, by turns.
satirists and cen-ors when writing about their
women, ami, lor page alter page, they write
about nomine else. The cfiurni holds them,
entrances thtm. 1
Turn to Lucian. or Ovid, or Martia1, or Juvenal
nd ece what they sav; bow they adjnonlsh and
mock; bow they criticize and rail, and in an in
slant icrget all except to admire morp than ever.
Does no? this simply warn us that fashionable
beauty is not to be familiarly hat hied, taken
atart pleco by piece, examined and chtpihV(i
like son e poor chance-plant bv the hieh roadr
A woman's beauty H enough lor men, an 1 be
need not Inquire whence it comes or w here it
kois. Alan is here protected ULrain-t disenchant
mc nt and disgust by a non-familiarity with what
Lemon would H)nnre.
Another trait ol resemblance between the
wciuia ot fashion in past centuries an 1 fashion
in our own times Is the value atla bed to what
tver wue Joreign. Uiee.li customs tjia lor the
F.i6ne the fame fascination which French
tafte and French stjle have lor us. A iioman
we mm of lashu n refused to u Be any osmetic
that did not have a Oree k name attained to iu
Ihe ntniost ambition o( the belle ol Pompeii was
to look like a Creek womnn, to walk like a
Creek woman, to lisp like a Greek woman, and
like a Creek woman to enchant men with the
leductiveriets ot her sensuous beauty.
Among the most remarkable ot the articles of
luxury which more recent excavations hive
given 1o the world, are the ecrina or Jewel
loxcs, tired by wealthy women to keep their
adommtnts. Some of these boxes are to leet
high, telling at once that a fortune was trca
ti,rea within thjlr chiselled circumference. The
jewels uo not n aterially ditler from modem
ones, fave in worhmanhip and design. Brace
lets, rings, ear-rings, fcold and pearl ornaments
lor the head, butk;es lor the belt, and clasps to
fasten tbe HowIiik oraperics over the shoulder;
the-e, ai.d the mo?f marvellous of combs, neck
lacis, toothpicks, and even crochet-needles,
toimeil part of the valuables which the Roman
woman of lashion consldtred nf her own special
proretly, and upon which her thoughts so
lonalv dwelt when she asked herself: "How
shall t look?"
We feel that she looked beautiful, when we
r member w hat w ere some of the ornaments she
wore, and low prolusely she introduced the
glitter ot gold in her full-dress coBtunic. The
lion nn lodges were excessively lond of Jewels.
Pearls and precious ttoncs had lor them the
same cht;m whic h they have lor us. When en
fit attde tciultc, the lady ot Pompeii covered bcr
whole pcrfon with jewelry. Her luxuriant hair,
her neck, her shoulders, her bofoni, her ankles
aud ai ms and Lands flashed with the Imprisoned
rires of the opal, cl ttcred with gold, or were
encircled with the pale, soft lljht of the pearl.
It feems thnt In this particular lahion of wear
ing jcwele, the "pm pie women" ot Pompeii took
the lead. Dignified matrons at once adopted the
extravagant taste, and the fashionable paiufprs
peon decked their diviplties with the new in
signia. A ni.de Venus, recently discovered upon the
w alls of rompeti, wers a gold b.'nd around her
head, two bracelets on each wrist, a long gold
chain dropping in her bosom, and rings on every
bnger; thus giving ns another picture of the
rage that prevailed at the time when, perhaps,
she was painted I rem tome inir living girl or
woman.
It we closely compare some particular fashion
of those reuiote dnjs with the Inshion ot our
own time, we shall' be sir prised to notice the
sliehtness of the difference m laste. Take,
lor instance, the n.ode of arranging the hair.
But bitore nil, take the hmr itself. Yes, take
it, touch it, handle it, look at it loner,
till j on mnke sure of its color. It
Is the very eclor we tdmire so much
to-day red hair; blonde hair and blonde women
were'thea as much admired, as much sought
alter, as the choicest blonde blossoms of our
drawing-rooms of to-day. Ho great was the pre
ference given to blonde and yellow and red hair,
that all sorts ot toilet artitices were resorted to
to obtain irom drugs and ointments the one
color w hich painters and potts still delight to
picture in their soitest dreams of fair women.
We beg paidon ot nil the magnificent Junos
whese black trc-ses match the night. Hna they
lived in that carnival ot luxury they would, no
doubt, have done w hat some of them try to do
now. The would have used dyes.
The Poropeian women obtained from the East
an unguent with which they saturated their
hair, and then sat for hours in the sun until the
foreign supstance was dried in, and the hair
was transformed. Sometimes the wrocess took
days to be perfected, snd then, if the lady had
so large a circle ol acquaintances that she could
t-ecure no privacy in her city house, she betook
hersell lo the country, and remained there till
her hair was made indie silken and more rich
w ith golden hue.
The mcde of ch-psping the hair varied as it
varies with us, lashion being more of an arbi
tresstantnsteinthat important detail of woman's
costume. "Rats" and cushions were skilfully
adjutttd by the slave coijleuse to the head ot
hir nut tress, and we lind some traces of the
waterfall. Curls ecem to have been the favorite
style of dressing the hair for a time cnrls
thrown back of the bend and downier on too
neck, such as we coll Grecian curls. Wearing
tbe bairinalorge knot on the summit of the
head, or in short ringlets around the forehead,
was also a tavoi ite mode with the exquisites ot
those days of exquisite eleeance. But what
adorned most the head of tne Pompelnn belle
were the Jewelled combs and tbe jewelled pins
which they used to fasten their hair. Some ol
those are marvellously bcauti'iil not in color
only, but in poetical design. One of those pins
found in llerculaneum, and about seven or
eight inches long, is surmounted by a Venus
chiselled in gold; hue is twisting her hair, and
locks at herself in a minor held by Cupid.
Another Is ornamented with a small tigure of
1'Kjche ki.-sics Love. .uother is still more
Luautiiul, being lue workmanship of
tome deck ieeller. It represents the
GedekPs of Pit nty caressing a dolphin,
aLile her heaa is surmounted by two
iiorj... s'numnj v'. vvusvcrunon w tuij uouaess i
ins. ir.ete leweueu pins are, pernaps, tne most
interesiins leaf tire of a wnia.. 's parure. They
tie.ni to have bet a selected with such dainty
e aie as test harmonised with the occasion in
which they were worn; showing at once that
the Mmbo'ls they represented were not over
'ooked, nor their poetical meaning unremeu;
Ltred. We moderns cauuot admire those pins with
nit woider at the pcrie-t raste which the
tapan aitists rsed in forniinu the least trifle.
Would it be po.-tible to use with more effect or
w ith more grace, so mall asp ce as. the head ot a
pin for the hair ? Could any more graceful idea
t,e expressed than that ot the (iod of Love
rendering to his niotner the same service that
slaves and infatuated lovers render to their mis
ueftes? Our aigrettes, our diamond constellations, and
our koh i-noors an: very bcauiitul, but among
all our modern des-iens tor jewels and parwes,
none awaken iu our mind assoeia'ions of ideas
rvon oho as thoie suggested by the ol'
tho e utacuii'l bagaieSi .
' oi. lie puis in l ompeii wore nets, and exer
cised the ehainJng rsipncioui-ne e of the r tickle
tatte in choice o color, texture and stvle.
si. me ot ihtPi were made oi go:d thread suicided
with pearls and o.her precious stones.
When iooKino into the profuse luxury o. that
vanr-hed ot centuries ago, we must aerfnow.
ledge the superiority in inventive fancy and
elc cant laste ol those pacun men and women.
For even tue movt insteniucant mnes mat
i'nnnO todecoiate their houses or adorn tue.tr
i treons repeal in tue gracelul variety ot their
toims a ilchness ot luucy that shumes our
modern n tiucniem into silence. What are the
crystal airows, the crjstal drops, the inlaid
combs or tilaeree imttertiies that our women
wc r, compared w ith the elegance ot ihe orna
ments whnh niaL- the l'otnpelan women so
beautiful. aid eo ulad in iheir beauty? And
how tan we oudei at that, when we think that
the State dueiaim-d not to eive laws in regara to
the drfss ol wemtn, so as to make it a part ot
its miignitkt rit prine? Many a Christian Gov-
II till tui uac ivaiix. u iri.muu auu couiui.Dunn
and adliistea divine mysteries by law; but in
Rome the Senate o'ceicd that the slave women
hair oiesu-rs should remain such a tl.ne as ap
pientices, to as to become skilful iu their art.
Ovid does not tail to tell us a pood deal about it,
nor about the tmpci-tance some ot thoje hair
dresters acquired v nen. after months of labor,
they became exotrt in making the cushion
named lutuv.s, which the ladies wore on the
summit of their head, anlurouucl which cen
tre d all the w hiui tt the reigning fashion.
After Rome had Lcome the mutrnetic i-entre
of ehiiuane i , w Lire ull the nuiions gathered
wl o preteud d to rcbueiuent or luxury, the
mode ot ear nc the hair it', once changed, and
tucEC wtmcL io l.acl before ignored toiegt
laiLitns nc.er.ted all the extremes of Creek
exiiavuL'SLte. Tt.'nitwas thut they bet an to
niinele ttrinpt ol i c arls in their hair, liite the
Kastein we uier. Whenever women entered a
lenmle coptec lattd to tevotian divinities, they
woiea l riluMf;i of lotus Dowers or wheat in
their hair, as emblematic ot the tecundity ot
nature. Ai.d. us In these wild days ol 'ushioua'
hie paganism. Italy became enveloped in the
leiituous worthip o. 1 sis, tne fashion noou piC'
vailtc icr wcu-en cl iuiU nud josxtvn ) tulopt
everj novel anamjenient of the hair that was
imported Ircm abroad.
Ihe conquenot tbe Cennnnie tribes broupht
in Ihe most fantastic modes aud Influenced much
the Itminine taste ot Home, and U mam under
that influence thnt golci dust was genrally used
as hair-powder by lashionable women.
Nothing Is more riatursl than that women of
fashion tbould create a fashion by their simple
preference or taste, just as is done in our days.
And just as naturally, as soon as that fashion
bits lost, by general prevalence, the dist inction
which is its greatest charm, another newer one
Is tried, discussed, and adopted. Natural flowers
were a favorite ornament lor the hair. The
Roman belles wore wreaths of flowers always
fragront flowers at their evening entertain
ments. They also wore chaplets ot flowers
around the rieci and bosom, so as to inhale the
delicious odor wh'ch, when yielded by th- head
wreath, must be lost to the wearer. Af-ineular
fattidiousness lorbnde all women to appear in
public by daylight with flowers upon them.
Tbev might not even carry bouquets under letyul
penalty. Was it becarsc they might have bee.i
considered as victims ? Those flower-wreaths
and chaplets wire woven with exquisite art, and
always intended to be symbolical wheu sent,
hall withered and jr t fragrant, to some bashful
favorite. Frerh flowers would not have been
welcomed by the jealous suitor, who loved to
imagine that he found soiiethinc of her whom
he ado.ed in the fast-drooping and finger crum
pled petals vhich had mingled with her
beauty. It was also the custom to com
plete a n.essege ol love and to tlx
a rendezvous by forwarding either apples
or ties bitten into. To-day, in the East, ladies
still wear chaplets of orange-biosonis around
tbeir olive-r kinned theulders, and lull aleep
caiefsed by the faint, languid odor.
But, with that same passion for beauty In
elrets which now, ns then, lies at the very heart
of a woman's nature, nothing could be more
unlike our modern female costume than that ol
the Roman women. Their ideal war. natural
ness, ar.d hence genuine beauty of lorm. They
did rot wear corsets, nor h' d they the remotest
idea of barrelling up their busts with wnale-
ones or steel. Next to the skin tlic.y wore a
garment of finest cambric, very much like the
modern chemise. Then a straight bard or scarl,
called itrojhum, which served to support the
be torn with that grace we so admire in antique
paintings. The makers of that part of a woman's
w ardrobe were a much patronized by Pompelnn
belles as our French corset-makers are to-day
patronized by women ot elegance. Over thut
band was worn a sortol jacket with long sleeves,
and n ade of the finest white wool.
When nt home, the tunic ct vered Ihe whole,
and the length ot that ample, flowing drapery
measured tomewbat the virtue ot the wearer,
tor it teems that ihe "purple woinfn" of those
elas preferred to wer.r (heir tunics very short,
to rhow their legs laden with bracelets, while
the Roman matrons lengthened the vesture by
a flounce embroidered w ith eold. The tunic was
fastened aiound Ihe waist by a beU urttsMcally
hidde n unde r some folds of the tueked-np dra
pery. For the promenade, women ol foshiuu
wore a mantle, the beauty of which was best
displayed by the stj le in which it exposed the
rL'lit breast, and was thrown over the left
shouldc r. Thosemantles wete invariably white,
and so tine in texcure that the incdrricrible
Pctronius speaks of them as of "woven wind."
Fashionable Roman women also wore white
kid boots. The "purple women" generally wore
sandals, to as to let iheir feet be seen those
finely shaped, large Roman feet, which our mo
dem taste would admire more had they been
smaller.
Extreme care was bestowed upon the nails of
tha feet nnd hands. There was one special slave
invested with the resron ibility of keeping the
nails of her mistress properly pared, cleaned,
and tinted. Women never wore t loves, yet they
delicately cherished their hands and tiueers.
They kept them beautiful, not by idleness alone,
but by a ai iety of cosmetics in'tt'nded to render
the skin solt, tmooih, nnd flower like. And as
the customs of those dayi made the finsers ol
women speak eloquently in adroit gesticulation,
the beauty of the hand could not be overlooked.
Horace makes fun of some origiunl wag inde
pendent enough to cm his own nails and dis
pense w lib the services ot barber or slave.
In loolcina at some of the jewels of l ompeii,
one is surprised to find how very fond were the
kelies ol the snake form, and how they pre
lerred having rings aud bracelets representing
eeipents. Gold serpents were among the
amulets, more or less decent, that hung from
necklaces, and were used to conjure uway dis
tressing influences. Even living snakes were
petted by Roman belles, who carried them
nio.nd their arms, and, for coolness' sake, even
let Ihem lie curling on their bosoni". For cool
ness' take also, did they carry smooth rock
crystal balis In' their hands, while the slave
lamed their heated laces and necks. After the
lashion ot ran-yine thoe crysial bolls had be
come so univeri-al that the Alpi failed to yh-ld a
siifllcicnt quuntify of crystal, yellow amber was
substituted. Juvenal tells us that tbe amber
ball was never to much prized, and ne er so
(eliclous to holci, as wheu ir issued, frairrunt,-
warm noui toe ,iina 01 a luir girl.
l'nns and parufo's liae'l their place ftmontr the
appurtenances of a woman's toilet, aud were
coiifidcied obi' cts of luxury by their r.in?niti
cence and dchcMe woiKtiianship. The tans
were moiitly made of very thin pieces of pie
c ons wood cr ivory, covered all over with the
mtnulest down ol the rmesl ol b'ucX
Well, we have If oked long enoueb to be made
sad, into the fr cinr.tiono ntid lollies of tl.e
poor bea'hen women who weie smothered in
the ashes of Pompeii so many ago ago. Their
volcanic tomb has preserved all these silent wit
nesses to show how the passions, the ambitions,
the vanities of women are ever the same, and
how even the tiinkets with which they bedeck
themselves express the same Lotions or beaUt".
nnd use the t ame materials, and almost the same
loims. Only the lovely peivons for wb,Qni h,
ex i ravneai.T expenses were iucn';:e,l, such Ynfl
Sin i10"?8 b,PB,0,,x''. ttich untiring thought
&. .?nlj "8e love,J WOTilen 'beni'e.vee
"-llso .on, patsed away so t'tterly.
Ml'StCAnNSTRlWENT"
"jra Si'IielMAl KEll PIANO r Oil i E
1 k 6 i i am i. e 'i rmso ( OJii'AST'S xkw
h i OI K. Ko. lli.l t li v sM'T street We reaiiectiutlr
cull He Ict.i.ol oluur Irli nils inul die pub Ic generally
cjI emr ifrD'.ovai to our new unit nuuelsonie Wrerooius,
UlFAlcD i.OW.Ko. Ma e.HtS MJ I' Street, where we
lime c LHIH' ly d linnun inrue nuvt ui imr miunur
Dd till ;y I rit-1 ed !"iU re an. Uranil 1'lar.oH.
A'urh Bin n.cnlfi biiVf betn iiWnrdud t.ie highest pro
imuii a k all tl.e ) r.i cl t L.bltluns . vei tieirt la .1114
coui try. w Hh liiiii.cicus lesiiun nia b 'roil tha Irdt
c,hi eit'n s In nicrlra unci ! uiope.
'1 lioj are new the leading 1 iiicos and alefo 1:)
tails 01 il woi'd. , ,
I'm tg (cflrlDg to jmrctiai-e aflrst-claBa Piano a,'
prcatlv hcuku rates il ou d not il to give us c II
I linos lo lent luuiuK "1 nioviiiR p oino ly at
tirc'rdto "kcho.MAC KFM & e;o.,
4 23 lui Jio 1H3 itUKSMVf Streot
I r J ret. UC liiiemJi,
'! ...... 1...
l i)l it iiiu.iii.iii
tlKar Casts,
l'orlfidlcs,
DrcNslng Cases,
RiinUers' CaMS.
Ladiea and Ucnls
BatchL'lH and
Travelling- Bnga,
in all uiyles.
STAMPING IN COLORS C.RATIS.-A TINE
Lstbrement 01 Fnnlwh French and eicnnau
i-AJ i-K A M K ' V ti-LOFe B.
Ui lutest London and l'arls Btyle or
VIM'IU A&D. W1I)I0 CARPS.
. A arre a ock ot
l-OCKLl-BejOKS, KNIVE. aa pripTnTTira
WH1 1 IKCl-tlF.SKH POI?TrOl.l"
snd v deicrlptlon cl Stationary at reosouabi
prie
MOOGBAMaENOHAVEn.
milREF GENERAL. AGENTS WANTED TO
J- act in liiii ortmit lot-atlousfortbe New York Aeoh
dental limn ance Company. Active men ol food addross,
ai i lv to KUA K O. ALLEN, Ural.1 lyflic;, io. 4IP
v - lt
il wk:ti0 I.,
II Kiii.it 5
It CAhl :i, ,H
iv mi 1 ik a
i.v;,, .,,..
I Sue he'. 11
rjii I'Owtci IJ
. Rl HuoU IJ
,3itio., io. ,jjr
FURNITURE AND BEDDING.
"YVALSUT ClIAMIiER SUITS,
IK OIL OR rOLISHID.
GEORGE J. 1IEXKELS,
TI11RTEESTII AND C11E6NUT BTREETS.
s
UITS OF WALNUT TARLOR
FURNITURE
in oil ob rousm.n.
GEORGE J. IiENKELS,
THIRTEENTH AND CHE8NUT STREETS.
gUHS OF ROSEWOOD CHAMBER
FURNITURE.
GEORGE .1 HEN EELS,
4 12trp
THIRTEENTH AND CI1KSXUT STREET.
ruiiNiTUKi:.
RICHMOND & FORETAUGII,
No. 40 South SECOND St., West Side,
M AJi VFACTUREB9 OF
SITERIOR CABINET FURNITURE,
Ul'HOLSTKllED (JOODH.
rarlor (nltk In Vumh, Ilopn Hair ( tnlh. etc.
MulnK-Koom, DlnlDK-Uocm, and t baniber BiliU In
Walnut, MnLonoiiy, nak, heduut. etc., utgetlier wltli
t rained imitations ot tbe ahore woods, which couie very
ow,
should too dOKlre anylbtns In our line, ft will be to
jour advan to ca I and enamlnc rur .ock. nntcd i
nn Inme and varied as can be lound anywhere, and
PlilCEH THE LOWEcT.
RICHMOND & FOREI'AUIH,
8 29 No. 40 Ponth BECOjD 8treet
FU K N I T U R E.-THE LARllEST,
( bcapeit end Kent Stock of Furniture In tbe
n oild la to be lound ai
OCjI LU CO.'S
TMO Fl ltSlll RE DEPOT.
COKNER OF MM II .UD MAHKKT STREET9,
aid oi. 37 and 39 N I-COM) Street.
Parlor buiiH, in 11 ail. brocade, I'lush, Damaak, or
Pep.
Dining-room. bambor, Library Kitchen, and Office
fa nil ure, at labu outly low prices, and the newest
st; 'ci aid patterns.
Public Buildmir School, College, and Phop Fori Iture
In end 1 pr ar.etr.
All kinds ot Furniture wanted by hoanekeepers. at
excrcdingly tow piicts at etibcrot Ibelrlirimense estab
lishments It jou mit to save Uionuy and get well
smed go to COl'll) & CO. l.eloie purchasing ele
nhtie tomerofMMH and M A HKhT, and Nos. 11
and 39 N. SEC ONI) Htrect. i 10 So
COURTNEY &-WILLITS,
Nos. 14 and 16 S. Seventh St., Fhilada.
iiam.facturi:ks of
BEAUTIFUL COTTAGE 1TRNITUBE
JiSD THE ONLY DI EAHLE IN IHE CITY.
Also, lining-Room. Furniture,
AND BEDD1SG. constantly on hard. 4 23mw2m
g ? R, I N G.
BEDDING OF EVERY DESCRIPTION,
HOLESALE AND ltKTATL,
AXO MATERIALS FOB TUE BA&iE.
IJESX QUALITY AND STYLE OF SPRINi,
MATTRESSES.
J. S. FULLER,
4 llsiutl Sm No. 9 a. SEVENTU Street.
ICE COMPANIES.
TCE 1 ICE ! ICE ! ICE !
ICE!
INCORPORATED 1864.
THOMAS E. CAI1IIL, Prosldcnt.
JOHN GOODYEAR, Secretary.
HENRY THOMAS, Superintendent.
COLD SPRING ICE AND COAL COMPANY
Dealers in ar.d iShipi ers of Ice and Coal.
W e are now prepared to lurnlgh best quality Ice In
large or small quantities, to hote s, steamboats, ice
cream salcons. lamlllcs, offices, etc. and at the lowest
mabket bates. Ico served dailt In all paved limits ot
the consolidated city, West Philadelphia, Mantua, Klch
mend, and Ocrmantown. Your custom and Influen.-e is
respectlully solicited You can rely on being served
!t'Hl a rt fE art'cle ana hiojjmlt.
Htnd your order id
OFFICE, Xo. 435 WALNUT STREET.
TiKPOTb.
S. W. corner rwLLFTH and WILLOW Streets.
Korth I enrsylvenlu liallroaa and At AslEK Street.
LO SI BAUD and TWEST Y-FIFTH btrceta.
1'lMi (street Wharf, chnyUiU, 4 72m4p
REMOVAL! REMOVAL!
OLD DRIVERS' ICE COMPANY,
BtAlOVtli FKSM X. W. CCBNIR 8IXTEEUTH
AS1) riACE, TO
Bread Sheet, Above Race, East Side
ai lLe lowest market rates.
11K-?S, JOrXSON & DAVI3.
OLD DRIVERS' ICE COMPANY.
1l.e tiiK'erplined. ifcllrg exctedli y thanklul to hit
n sry fr ti os aid cuslunitrs lor their Tcry liberal patron
ie xt(i.tle-d lo biu: duima the iast seventeen years, aud
Laving to d his en'iie Inte itst to
'nsn,s. lli.H JUKKnOX A I)AVIJ.
Tike? pltanne in r'eton mt-nd ujr tnem 10 his former
pa reus as ti er are hciitlcinen ut' well knoitn Inieiltv
snd will unluuhled v nn.lrialn ihe renutation ol the
0L1 UBl VKI' Il t O.MPAKV.and inevcrvwav act
to ss to cive entire FHiUlactlon to a!l who ma? ktnd.j
'avoi tl.imwl h their cusiom. Kespeet oily, e'e ,
1 2lm A snuvii,
JEErCOOLIi KEEP COOL!!
CHARLES S. CARPEJSTER & CO.,
WHOLESALE AM JttT A IL
ICt D i: A I. E U S
No. 717 WILLOW, Above Franklin St.
Families supplied satUlac oriiy and at reduced rates.
Dealers and iarve consumers turnlched on reasonable
Uras. C HAKLKS I'AKPEMEB
JOUN t,LEM)KNlNO.
JcjSfcPti M. 1 ROMAN, Jr.,
8 22 1m Proprietors
I ASTERN ICE COM PAN Y". SE ASON OF
L 1816 - 8 ibn. dally . DO cents per eeki VI lbs dallv.
IS cems per weckt 10 lb. Oiiiy, ceuis per wwi
lbs daily. 1 Oft per week Depot. No U41 VIUttN
ttreet below 1UI d.
TllOM V8 J. L OKS,
0 1
ouna p. dibits,
rp II E SUBSCRIBE R,
iFor mny years conncc.ed with MITCHELL'S 8A
LOOKS, a 6i HLKM'T btseet". wou'd rrspectfully
Inlorm his lrleqc s aud tbe publlo encrally. that he has
opened an " ( ,
Ice Cream and Refreshment Saloon,
FOB LAMES AND OESTLEMEK,
AT Ko. I 121 CHESNUT STREET,
(GIRARD ROW),
Where he Lores, bv strict attention to business, to merit
tha patronage of all who may favor him w tn their cus
tom. JACVB U. jsuKunaiJ"
1 BUA vui VIA, M y , 1WW- t
CLOTHING.
or
f4 .A
Ay UNDKIl
'
7 f THE
(Offltttaial Hotel,
T. OF F. C. F. F. F 0
CLOTHIISTG III
LIICKS' TEMFLE OF FASHION.
Celel rated
For Fine
Fashionable
Clothiner.
WILLIAM II1CKS,
No. Sioa MA15KET Strpet,
!2 2m PHILADELPHIA.
g'JATES UNION CLOIHING HALL,
606 MARKET Street, 608
Visitors will find a large and varied assortment ot the
very best KEADY-MADE CLOTHING at the locreBt
oath prices.
Suits, containing Coats, rants, and Vest, trom "12 00.
Dusters, f 2 25.
Pants from $3 flO and higher.
Come ai.d convince yourselves. i5 31 3m
CjOfTO $45 FOR A SUIT OP HLACK OP
tptJtJ lancy colored cloth; army and navy ciolhln;
J o . in stvle unsurpusieJ.
4TPmrn KABH. v o 11 KISTH St.. above Cbesna t.
N
o
c
E.
I, JOHX EDGAR TUOMSON, Trustee In a ceitaln
Indenture 01 Jlortusge of the piopcrty kerelnal'ter de
sciibed executed by the Tyrone and t leairlt'ld Ualiroad
Company to mo, as Mor gagee in Tiust, to secure the
panuntol the principal and interest ot bonds of said
Company to the amount ot S-'8 MM) which Mortgage is
elateu the 12th day ot May. A. I). 1859. and recorded In
the ofl.ee lor recording deeds, etc . in and lor the counrv
or Blair, on the lKth day 01 A' ay, A D. ltv'A In mortgige
book A, pages 6t'3 4-6-6-7 and 0, nnd In tbe odice tor re
cording duds. etc.. In and lor the conntv ot Centre, on
the l'Jth day it If ay, A D. 1859 In mortgago book K,
page 170 etc , do hereby give notice that deiault havtna
teen made for more than ulnely anys In tlio payment of
the Interest due and demanded on the said bon is, I will,
in puisuance of the written tequestto me directed 01 the
holders ot more than (Ml IhiU in amoum of the said
bonds, and by virtue of the power conieried ution me in
that respect by tlte said uorigpge expose to public sa:e
and sell 10 the hl( hest and bust bidder by VI. iHOM.'S
SONS. Auclkreers at the PHU.ADKLPHIA EX
t'H GK. In ihecliv o i bllaelpliia. on Thursday, the
21th dnv of Pcptrmber A D. It66 upon the terns and
conditions hereiuaiter stated, the vhoe of the said
n. on gated preu.ln s, viz. :
The whole 01 thut sect on of said Tyrone nJ Clear
field Kallroad irom the point of Intersection with the
'lyronear.d lock liaven liailrond near Tyrone. Ulalr
county, 1 ennsylvaiua to l'hl llpsbuig Centre county,
Pennsylvania us Ite same if now constructed togoiher
mm an ui 11 sinu ar iue rauwayii, runs, orulges.
fences, privileges, rightu, and all real property of
eery dcscrlpiion acquired by and belonging to said
Cruipant . aiid all tbe tolls. Income, Issues, and proflu
to be di rived and to a'le trom the ssme. aud a 1 the
lands used and occupied lor railways depoti, or sta
tions betwein said points, with a 1 the buildings stand
ing Ihervon or procured .hoi clor
AND GLNtBALLY.
All lie 'anils, ruilwavs. rails, bridges, culverts, trest'e
wctks, tool bouses, coa! bouses wharves, icnces, rlghti
of wny, workshops, machinery, s'Ulous, depots, depot
grounds, works, maourv. and other supeisiructure,
ical estate buildings snd Improvements or whatever
natuie or kind appertaining or belonging to the above
mentioned propei tv and 10 the said section of said
Tvioue and i earilc d 1 aiiruad, and owned by suid Com
pany in connection thercwi h.
'J he salu tection of the Tyrone and C'esi field Railroad,
extending from he Intersection ot the vrone and flea'
field Railroad wiih the rai road .ormerly be'ongtng to
the 'l .vrone and Lockhave n Kallro id c ompany, but now
to tiie Paid Kag e Vttlev hailroad Company, is about
ii) miles in euith.
Timta OF SALE.
81P,(0O of the purcliasc money 10 be paid Incathwhen
the pioperty is sUiica otr, aud the balance wltalu M days
tlierialler
PaI Jul' NT on account of tbe aaidbaance of purchase
liioi.ev, to tbe ex em of itio dividend thereof poyaoie
on the bonne secured by the suld mortgago and 1)10 ma
tuicd coupons ol the said bonds may he made In the said
bonds 01 coupors; and If tbe dividend is less than the
aclunlmui cue upon the said bonds or coupons, tne
holders mry retain posserslon o' the said bonds iml
coupons on receipting to the said Trustee for thesnid
divide sd. and eni'trnlng fayineut of tbe lime on the stud
bonds or coupons.
I pon the purcbase mnnev being paid as atoresata the
Trustee will execute and deliver a di ed 01 conveyance
01 the preml'ea to the puichaser or purchasers in pur
suance 01 tuepov.ee conlerred upon him by tbe said
moitgage.
Any lurtber Information In respect to anld sa'e or
pienilses maybe hsd upon application to the under
sii ncd Trustee, at the cilice ol tbe Pennay.vsnla ltttli
roui Ccmpauy, ISO. 238 H. 1 bird sireec. Phi ad phla.
JOHN ELGAK lilt IM "OS. I rustce,
So. 238 S '1 BIND Street
W. THOMAS AhOH. Auc'ioneers,
8 21 niftm Nob. 139 and 141 H KOCK1II street.
On and After llonday, June 4, 186G
A PASSENdKU TliAIN
3 O 11 II K A D 1 N O .
AND iNl EllMEDiATt STaIIONs. will ,eavo Depo'..
..iji i TLtMii auu CAl.i-i'V ulLL ate e .
; o a. aj
Amvitik at ilcauini. :n imeto tonaeci vit.. i.x'jrn-s
Jran.s North. I ast a d West.
Passengers tolny North irom all stations Jc.wcei.
Phiiaelelpbia and leading, ex ept orrlstown. I hojulx
vli e. and fotiMown will iske this train
Ihe Ale KMNU LXl RttS TUAI.N will leave Phlla
delphia at
815 A. M.
Ptot ping onlv at Norrlsiown, PbanlxvlUe. Potttown
HesdniL and points on ine no. In hue above Heading, an I
the L BAN OA VALLh, Y bllANCH.
rJlie S'45 P. M. from Pottnville
WlllOT SIO1' at stations SuT'lH of Pcaillng, except
pO'n8Ti'WN.PH0eKMXVlLLk.,and NOKltl TOWN
A Train ill leave Heading at
G MO 1 M.,
fteirolngat all Statins, and arriving at Ttilni'.ciphia at
010 P.M. e,4ri
Q 1! E E N E A S,
ejJlrfcN CORK,
tliKfeU l'tACtir.,
KKrtH JOHAlOKi! fl.UMSi
Al-JilORT'O. HOUKHT8
DEALIR IN USE GhOLElE
918 4p Cm. ELLVKin u ,Id ViKE Stiee:f.
Oil R NFXT POVERNOK CLTMETt OR
GvaKY as mav re chosen together with ilia
tVENING IVCLIPPEK.EIC,
n ay le obtained as usual at
n C mvi Vl 6Vi.. lU Mtd CUttf.Nli Utt
-KA824 Chestnut
8TREET- - ?
. t ' a x I
XT' til 1
WATCKE-, JEWELRY ETC
11 wTi itr),jf;wr:T.'.Y .'tnAiiit,
LTCJtiiaudJS::!. ; :..::A:Ria
Cwlrgto tie icllre nl CoV, fcss mi rat
4 nt t lea In prlct of Listeria sbo we I sttortetl stock
Dinmonels,
VRtch.
Jvelry
Silverwrre?, Kto.
lit public sic rrsrectfnllj Invited to call and examine
cor stock before rurchaedng e.iewbere. 2 i
I SILVER AJSD PLATED GOODS,
v mr-. r : xrr 1 i -
luufti. oujjciiur vv ur&mansnip,
AT THE
N 1 : VV S T fl FI .
No. 704 ARCH STREET.
Ihe nndersl,nrd (late of tie famous Rogers B'os'.
IMsnutBciurliig Companrl rptctully annouuee that
tbev have openrd a new snd beau Hi a store tor the sale
ot 8ILVhR and i'U til) W.iKi;. at No. 704 ABCJH
(itreet. Our l ng expulence as manu adorers will
enable us 10 keep nothliig but flrst-clats Goods, and.
tho.e who mny patronise our a. ore will find our pa ted
gcods iai supeilor to any ever Imported, and our cus
tomers n ay teiy on the fcoods being preo'sely what they
are rrpretcn'.ed to be.
5 2k BOWMAN LIOKARa
MUSICAL BOXES.
A full arrortmcut ot ateve goods eonstantlr on
betd at mode, ate prices thii Vlusical Boxes playln
Irom 2 to lObtaniiful Aba
I ARE & EEOTHER, Importers.
No. 814 1 11 Kt NL'l 8TB
llllcmtlrp Below Kourth.
STUDS
FOR EYELET HOLES.
A LARGE AND ELEGANT ASSOHTMEXr, FOR
SALE BT
LEWIS LADOMUH,
616t No. HO CHK8NUT St
O. RUSSELL & CO.,
o. fll North SIXTH St.,
INVITE ATTENTION TO IHtIR FL'LL STOCK
OF
FINK WA'JCIJES,
JLWILRY, AND FANCY AND PLAIN SILVER
WAEE OF EYEHY DLSCKIPTIOX. t52tJ
RICH JEWELRY
JOHN BEEN NAK, f
DEALER IN
DIAMONDS, FINE WATCHES, JEWELRY-
Etc. Etc. Etc.
9 21 i Ho. 18 8. EIGHT H Si iiT, ftulada.
GFtOCERIES.
TEAS REDUCED TO $1, AT INGRAM'S
Tea Warehouse, No. 48 S. BECOSD Htreet.
BOASTFD COFFEE REDUCED TO ,)0 CTS
at IN GKA Al'b 'lea Warehouse, No. 43 8 SECOND
Mrctt.
40
C. REST MILD COFFEE, AT INfJRAM'3
iea narcuouse, AO w . HjblJUMi street.
rrtEAS AND COFFEES AT WHOLESALE
J. prices, at IJ.GKAM't lea Warehouse, No. 41 .
hECON 1 Street. Try them.
REEN COFFEES FROM 22 TO 28 CTS. A
T pound at IN GUAM'S Tea Warehouse, No. 43 S
(EC ON I) Street Try them 110 6m
LIQUORS.
(TiLSiUT GROVE WHISKY,
No. Ki North THlIiD Srroet.
Jt ecvtllng niisw(.uttd to piov the absolute purltj
01 this Whisky, tbo leiliowing certificate should dolt
1 here Is no a coholio stiir.Hluiit known coromandiugsupt
tiin.u iiikatitn 1 cm kui li liiili douiccsi
1 iiilalh.i lia, Keptemberg la-ig
We have csrenl y uMid tl.e suuipie 01 e HEhmjT
(U.OVi. WHISKY ml.ichjou send us, and fluctbatlt
ci .mains kom; or 11.E roitokois siuHtancb known ai
nsiLoiL vbieh is the ebaructer.ft'o aud Injurious la
kieeilint ol the whlfl.ies iniciitra ate
BOOiH. OAKlilTT CAMAO,
Analytical CheiulsU
Sew Yobk, September I lbH
1 l ave snalvzcd a sample ol CHtM T Qu E
V UlbhY rcccivtu irom Ar Charles Wharton. Jr.. of
1 htiiie.elphlu! end laving caruiultv tested It, I ann
p ei sed to state that It la entire v kkkk vhom PoisoMotf
iu LttniiHif subr lames It Is an unusually pur
H'U l.ne-llavoicd qua lly ol whlskv.
J A AILS It t Hft.TON. M. D..
Analytical C heiuis
LosTOH, March 7 1A59
itavenade a chenii el ar.a 5 sis ol commercial tam
p'es of CliV.'-M1'' jL0VE W dl-KY. which provests
icirc c liem the benvy r ull (liis. ai d perleuily pure an
111 1 eiul'ci aled '1 he tine llhvcr ol this whisky la derive
11.111 lie noiii uied iu oianulacturiiig It.
lesptct:uliy A. A. ll. YES. M D.
! late itsovei, fio lit UoyistonaueeL
cr rsie 01 srrei.flc mronn. ci boii.e atNo. 226Norti
1U1II) Street F hllade.ptln 41
y A T If A y S A- S O N s,
I M I C) Tt rJ 15 li s
BRANDIES, WINES, GINS,
Etc. Etc.
Ho. 19 North FRONT Street
PHILADELPHIA.
MOBK8 KATHAKB,
IiOKACK A. NATFAK6,
OBUUDO D NAlllAa B.
119m
ESTABLISHED 179 15.
A. S. ROBINSON,
French Plate Looktng-Glasses,
ENGRAVINGS PAINTINGS, DRAWINGS ETC
Alanutaoturer of all kinds of
I.ooUinc-OlafB, Portrait, and Pio
lure l'rBmes to Order.
No. 810 CHESNUT STREET,
TDIBD DOOB AEOVE THE CONTINENTAL,
ruiLAPKLmiA. 9l6
j WATCHES, JEWELEY, &c. !