The evening telegraph. (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, June 08, 1866, FOURTH EDITION, Page 6, Image 6
TEE DAILY EVEIMISG HLKilUl B. PHILADELPHIA, F1UDAY, JUKE 8, 180G. THE WORLD OF FASHION. hKKLE DAMK l. JXC1EST 1'MKI. The Ton of Old Times. In nil aep vomnn n ratber what mnn make her than what poets dream or painters Imaum". The attracti n ot the exe does not become more or let, like polit cal or religious creeds, accotdingto the time when wider room Is made for their action in the world. Men and women xist for each other; and women In the days of the Ron i an emperors, as to-riav, nted all their lacnltiee and all their Ingenntty simply to please men. We be literary women not to take flense at our iftteroeiit. for It will bear a dis passtomtte examination. The glrla of Boston or XJew York are not more beautiful or ireeh than were the girls of Pompeii: but are they not (list s easer to look beaut iiul ? We have yet to lenrn the A B C of Natnre, and we believe tint she is lar wiser than any of the philosophers, moralists, priests, or theologians t our pious nineteenth cenutury. She kno ws what she is about, and er nurds well the secret ol her enchantments. And alio teaches women to be women, as she teaches g rig how to be those frail, delicate, untouched buds of loveliness, which, like the succeeding springs of the eaith, year after year, nmke Iresh under our eyea the Virginity ot Beauty. bo, in gently pushing open the door ot the tlressine-rootu ot any wealth'1, lashionable I'ompiliiii woman, we shall neither feel nor show more iirprso at what we see there, than if we were the priviledged intruder allowed to look at, touch, and tumble the nameless knick knacks and fancy articles that till the dressing room o''our modern belles; since to day, as cen turies ago. Fashion, with all its implements, is but the accredited accomplice of Nature, and serves her best when most successlulty it lends its aid to complete in a woman's lace or figure w hat JNutuie capriciously left imperfect. Our social tonne beintr diffcrn! Irom those of the days ot Pompeii, the pofitKn of woman in poc:tt.v is also different, and n cessarily gives her mucli more Influence. We have l'terary women; they only had. here and v here, reading women, like the daughter of Ovid, for instance, whoss sweetness of character was not marred by any rngulnnty or harsh, pclantio tone or spirit. Our literary women, by i-oine unex plained conjunction ol personal needs or losses, hre too oltcn too inditlerent to the graces of womanhood, and free from all the sweet necessi ties of the womau-nature, to be aereablo. To please does not seem to be the uppermost am bition ot their natiue to be loved and admired the end of their best efforts. Toey have entered as competitors with men in the world of letters, aud insist upon sharing the publicity and the reputation of men. But those women who are satisfied in simply being what women can naturally be, and who, without lretlul scorn lor what they cannot attain, or helpless vanity In what they feebly imitate, accept their mere womanliness as containing the infinite posii bilities of their influence, will take interest in tindine out with us the points of resemblance between themselves and their sis.ers of dead centuries. The women of Pompeii lived a life exclusively devoted to pleasure. Every demand ot soul and spirit, every requirement of the intellect, teems to have been sacrificed to achieving a perlect blossoming of the senses. From what we are allowed to witness with our eyes, in the paintings and mosaics lately discovered, and, irom what we must infer, not an inch of time was given to fhe soul and its imperious needs, and no room made for it to expand in; but the Jihysical lite, the revelry of the flesh, the abso ute Intoxication of voluptuousness, tyrannized over every moment, and appropriated every hour of a woman's lite. We must remember how different is our do mestic economy irotrj that oi those days. We are not told that any of the problems of that vexed "Bridget question" diturbed the placid case of the mistresses of houses. Servants then were slaves, a net. as such, unquestioning, willing, competent ministers to the luxurious habits of wealthy women. Those servants were skilful waiting maids, tilling around their mis tms the double orlice of confidantes and ser vants. And so admirab y adiu&ted were the sepa rate elements of that sjsicm of home-service, that not one of the eervauts interfered with the work ol the other, or mistook her special duty, but rather, by her own punctilious to.itine and exactitude, helped to render each returning day a day of untroubled eae, and every hour an hour of new delight, to the queen-woman, who thought of nothing else but how to please her favorite admirer. Then, as now, women used adroit secresy in making their persons objects ol special Hudy and critical examination. Every line, or mark, or wrinkle, was attentively tracked with a jealous eye, aud most killully concealed. Rougc3, pow der, pa nt, washes, and ointments all that art eyer devit ed and coiubiued to lepulr the destroy lug touch of time was used, as it la used now. 1 ndced, our Lubins and our Rimmels, with their world-renowned delicious perf umes au3 essences, Tail to furnish us wiih such profusion of lucent oils and aromatic washes as lormed then the requisites lor the toilets of women of fashion. The utmost vnlue being set on a smooth, milky-white, satin-like skin, it bscame the chief endeavor ot every woman to preserve her com plexion. To this end, t athina- was constantly resorted to. What nobody ever omits doing before leaving the bed room the wa hins of face and hands was to the Poaipeian woman not merely a half hour's or an hour's work, but was the chief occupation of her moruiuii. Sue baihed 1 ixuriouslv in warm, scented baths of Htses' milt, she bathed till her whole body was as smoothly sol.-skinued a? the petal of a flower, and her hauds, her arms, her bosom, and her limbs were rarde supple with excess of lan guid renose. One cannot help seeing anew the Venus Aphr. di e coming out of the tnaic 'oara, when re niiug about those luir women, so fair and so wemuu like! itseenis that the ubsence of activity and labor in lie nan .l". ?' women- nPrD,?P.8. tbo auseuce oi miiii'v resionJ9ii,ne wt t dignity, made abundant room lor " ..'"' ! SS!!?1' atiK--: et. whictttd o' . r o every morning, occupied half the For, on awakeuinii the lady of fashion eaile.l her naves to her bedside, and had herself more etlectuaily aroused by various manipula tions and applications, at wh'ch our implacable individual independence would simply revoH. First, the lady must have her lace carefully washed, before any man's ee Is alloyed to glance at her. Sleep alone has no so unbar moui.ed aud disturbed tb color ari'J J'.'stro'-eu the iounine? of those checks, or made ho.,t eyelids hang so heavily over eyes not yut br'u iiant. The paste of bread and milk, which was o carefully spread all over the fuce last night, has to fee removed in such a way that not the slUhtcfct redness or irritation of the skin shall remain. When that is effected, the teeth are re placedfor they had artificial teeth in thos days the eyebrows are artistically pencilled, and the lipsj and cheeks, it necessary, staiued with the bloom ot youth. Roman ladies understood as well as our women, that the clurm of art is to remain unseen and unsuspected. Therefore, none but their own personal attendan's were allowed near them during tbe elaborate process ol the toilet "Yet, men would find out; meu would know; men would tee, what was intended to bo so well con e-en leei. ah tne Koman poets become, by turns. satirists and cen-ors when writing about their women, ami, lor page alter page, they write about nomine else. The cfiurni holds them, entrances thtm. 1 Turn to Lucian. or Ovid, or Martia1, or Juvenal nd ece what they sav; bow they adjnonlsh and mock; bow they criticize and rail, and in an in slant icrget all except to admire morp than ever. Does no? this simply warn us that fashionable beauty is not to be familiarly hat hied, taken atart pleco by piece, examined and chtpihV(i like son e poor chance-plant bv the hieh roadr A woman's beauty H enough lor men, an 1 be need not Inquire whence it comes or w here it kois. Alan is here protected ULrain-t disenchant mc nt and disgust by a non-familiarity with what Lemon would H)nnre. Another trait ol resemblance between the wciuia ot fashion in past centuries an 1 fashion in our own times Is the value atla bed to what tver wue Joreign. Uiee.li customs tjia lor the F.i6ne the fame fascination which French tafte and French stjle have lor us. A iioman we mm of lashu n refused to u Be any osmetic that did not have a Oree k name attained to iu Ihe ntniost ambition o( the belle ol Pompeii was to look like a Creek womnn, to walk like a Creek woman, to lisp like a Greek woman, and like a Creek woman to enchant men with the leductiveriets ot her sensuous beauty. Among the most remarkable ot the articles of luxury which more recent excavations hive given 1o the world, are the ecrina or Jewel loxcs, tired by wealthy women to keep their adommtnts. Some of these boxes are to leet high, telling at once that a fortune was trca ti,rea within thjlr chiselled circumference. The jewels uo not n aterially ditler from modem ones, fave in worhmanhip and design. Brace lets, rings, ear-rings, fcold and pearl ornaments lor the head, butk;es lor the belt, and clasps to fasten tbe HowIiik oraperics over the shoulder; the-e, ai.d the mo?f marvellous of combs, neck lacis, toothpicks, and even crochet-needles, toimeil part of the valuables which the Roman woman of lashion consldtred nf her own special proretly, and upon which her thoughts so lonalv dwelt when she asked herself: "How shall t look?" We feel that she looked beautiful, when we r member w hat w ere some of the ornaments she wore, and low prolusely she introduced the glitter ot gold in her full-dress coBtunic. The lion nn lodges were excessively lond of Jewels. Pearls and precious ttoncs had lor them the same cht;m whic h they have lor us. When en fit attde tciultc, the lady ot Pompeii covered bcr whole pcrfon with jewelry. Her luxuriant hair, her neck, her shoulders, her bofoni, her ankles aud ai ms and Lands flashed with the Imprisoned rires of the opal, cl ttcred with gold, or were encircled with the pale, soft lljht of the pearl. It feems thnt In this particular lahion of wear ing jcwele, the "pm pie women" ot Pompeii took the lead. Dignified matrons at once adopted the extravagant taste, and the fashionable paiufprs peon decked their diviplties with the new in signia. A ni.de Venus, recently discovered upon the w alls of rompeti, wers a gold b.'nd around her head, two bracelets on each wrist, a long gold chain dropping in her bosom, and rings on every bnger; thus giving ns another picture of the rage that prevailed at the time when, perhaps, she was painted I rem tome inir living girl or woman. It we closely compare some particular fashion of those reuiote dnjs with the Inshion ot our own time, we shall' be sir prised to notice the sliehtness of the difference m laste. Take, lor instance, the n.ode of arranging the hair. But bitore nil, take the hmr itself. Yes, take it, touch it, handle it, look at it loner, till j on mnke sure of its color. It Is the very eclor we tdmire so much to-day red hair; blonde hair and blonde women were'thea as much admired, as much sought alter, as the choicest blonde blossoms of our drawing-rooms of to-day. Ho great was the pre ference given to blonde and yellow and red hair, that all sorts ot toilet artitices were resorted to to obtain irom drugs and ointments the one color w hich painters and potts still delight to picture in their soitest dreams of fair women. We beg paidon ot nil the magnificent Junos whese black trc-ses match the night. Hna they lived in that carnival ot luxury they would, no doubt, have done w hat some of them try to do now. The would have used dyes. The Poropeian women obtained from the East an unguent with which they saturated their hair, and then sat for hours in the sun until the foreign supstance was dried in, and the hair was transformed. Sometimes the wrocess took days to be perfected, snd then, if the lady had so large a circle ol acquaintances that she could t-ecure no privacy in her city house, she betook hersell lo the country, and remained there till her hair was made indie silken and more rich w ith golden hue. The mcde of ch-psping the hair varied as it varies with us, lashion being more of an arbi tresstantnsteinthat important detail of woman's costume. "Rats" and cushions were skilfully adjutttd by the slave coijleuse to the head ot hir nut tress, and we lind some traces of the waterfall. Curls ecem to have been the favorite style of dressing the hair for a time cnrls thrown back of the bend and downier on too neck, such as we coll Grecian curls. Wearing tbe bairinalorge knot on the summit of the head, or in short ringlets around the forehead, was also a tavoi ite mode with the exquisites ot those days of exquisite eleeance. But what adorned most the head of tne Pompelnn belle were the Jewelled combs and tbe jewelled pins which they used to fasten their hair. Some ol those are marvellously bcauti'iil not in color only, but in poetical design. One of those pins found in llerculaneum, and about seven or eight inches long, is surmounted by a Venus chiselled in gold; hue is twisting her hair, and locks at herself in a minor held by Cupid. Another Is ornamented with a small tigure of 1'Kjche ki.-sics Love. .uother is still more Luautiiul, being lue workmanship of tome deck ieeller. It represents the GedekPs of Pit nty caressing a dolphin, aLile her heaa is surmounted by two iiorj... s'numnj v'. vvusvcrunon w tuij uouaess i ins. ir.ete leweueu pins are, pernaps, tne most interesiins leaf tire of a wnia.. 's parure. They tie.ni to have bet a selected with such dainty e aie as test harmonised with the occasion in which they were worn; showing at once that the Mmbo'ls they represented were not over 'ooked, nor their poetical meaning unremeu; Ltred. We moderns cauuot admire those pins with nit woider at the pcrie-t raste which the tapan aitists rsed in forniinu the least trifle. Would it be po.-tible to use with more effect or w ith more grace, so mall asp ce as. the head ot a pin for the hair ? Could any more graceful idea t,e expressed than that ot the (iod of Love rendering to his niotner the same service that slaves and infatuated lovers render to their mis ueftes? Our aigrettes, our diamond constellations, and our koh i-noors an: very bcauiitul, but among all our modern des-iens tor jewels and parwes, none awaken iu our mind assoeia'ions of ideas rvon oho as thoie suggested by the ol' tho e utacuii'l bagaieSi . ' oi. lie puis in l ompeii wore nets, and exer cised the ehainJng rsipncioui-ne e of the r tickle tatte in choice o color, texture and stvle. si. me ot ihtPi were made oi go:d thread suicided with pearls and o.her precious stones. When iooKino into the profuse luxury o. that vanr-hed ot centuries ago, we must aerfnow. ledge the superiority in inventive fancy and elc cant laste ol those pacun men and women. For even tue movt insteniucant mnes mat i'nnnO todecoiate their houses or adorn tue.tr i treons repeal in tue gracelul variety ot their toims a ilchness ot luucy that shumes our modern n tiucniem into silence. What are the crystal airows, the crjstal drops, the inlaid combs or tilaeree imttertiies that our women wc r, compared w ith the elegance ot ihe orna ments whnh niaL- the l'otnpelan women so beautiful. aid eo ulad in iheir beauty? And how tan we oudei at that, when we think that the State dueiaim-d not to eive laws in regara to the drfss ol wemtn, so as to make it a part ot its miignitkt rit prine? Many a Christian Gov- II till tui uac ivaiix. u iri.muu auu couiui.Dunn and adliistea divine mysteries by law; but in Rome the Senate o'ceicd that the slave women hair oiesu-rs should remain such a tl.ne as ap pientices, to as to become skilful iu their art. Ovid does not tail to tell us a pood deal about it, nor about the tmpci-tance some ot thoje hair dresters acquired v nen. after months of labor, they became exotrt in making the cushion named lutuv.s, which the ladies wore on the summit of their head, anlurouucl which cen tre d all the w hiui tt the reigning fashion. After Rome had Lcome the mutrnetic i-entre of ehiiuane i , w Lire ull the nuiions gathered wl o preteud d to rcbueiuent or luxury, the mode ot ear nc the hair it', once changed, and tucEC wtmcL io l.acl before ignored toiegt laiLitns nc.er.ted all the extremes of Creek exiiavuL'SLte. Tt.'nitwas thut they bet an to niinele ttrinpt ol i c arls in their hair, liite the Kastein we uier. Whenever women entered a lenmle coptec lattd to tevotian divinities, they woiea l riluMf;i of lotus Dowers or wheat in their hair, as emblematic ot the tecundity ot nature. Ai.d. us In these wild days ol 'ushioua' hie paganism. Italy became enveloped in the leiituous worthip o. 1 sis, tne fashion noou piC' vailtc icr wcu-en cl iuiU nud josxtvn ) tulopt everj novel anamjenient of the hair that was imported Ircm abroad. Ihe conquenot tbe Cennnnie tribes broupht in Ihe most fantastic modes aud Influenced much the Itminine taste ot Home, and U mam under that influence thnt golci dust was genrally used as hair-powder by lashionable women. Nothing Is more riatursl than that women of fashion tbould create a fashion by their simple preference or taste, just as is done in our days. And just as naturally, as soon as that fashion bits lost, by general prevalence, the dist inction which is its greatest charm, another newer one Is tried, discussed, and adopted. Natural flowers were a favorite ornament lor the hair. The Roman belles wore wreaths of flowers always fragront flowers at their evening entertain ments. They also wore chaplets ot flowers around the rieci and bosom, so as to inhale the delicious odor wh'ch, when yielded by th- head wreath, must be lost to the wearer. Af-ineular fattidiousness lorbnde all women to appear in public by daylight with flowers upon them. Tbev might not even carry bouquets under letyul penalty. Was it becarsc they might have bee.i considered as victims ? Those flower-wreaths and chaplets wire woven with exquisite art, and always intended to be symbolical wheu sent, hall withered and jr t fragrant, to some bashful favorite. Frerh flowers would not have been welcomed by the jealous suitor, who loved to imagine that he found soiiethinc of her whom he ado.ed in the fast-drooping and finger crum pled petals vhich had mingled with her beauty. It was also the custom to com plete a n.essege ol love and to tlx a rendezvous by forwarding either apples or ties bitten into. To-day, in the East, ladies still wear chaplets of orange-biosonis around tbeir olive-r kinned theulders, and lull aleep caiefsed by the faint, languid odor. But, with that same passion for beauty In elrets which now, ns then, lies at the very heart of a woman's nature, nothing could be more unlike our modern female costume than that ol the Roman women. Their ideal war. natural ness, ar.d hence genuine beauty of lorm. They did rot wear corsets, nor h' d they the remotest idea of barrelling up their busts with wnale- ones or steel. Next to the skin tlic.y wore a garment of finest cambric, very much like the modern chemise. Then a straight bard or scarl, called itrojhum, which served to support the be torn with that grace we so admire in antique paintings. The makers of that part of a woman's w ardrobe were a much patronized by Pompelnn belles as our French corset-makers are to-day patronized by women ot elegance. Over thut band was worn a sortol jacket with long sleeves, and n ade of the finest white wool. When nt home, the tunic ct vered Ihe whole, and the length ot that ample, flowing drapery measured tomewbat the virtue ot the wearer, tor it teems that ihe "purple woinfn" of those elas preferred to wer.r (heir tunics very short, to rhow their legs laden with bracelets, while the Roman matrons lengthened the vesture by a flounce embroidered w ith eold. The tunic was fastened aiound Ihe waist by a beU urttsMcally hidde n unde r some folds of the tueked-np dra pery. For the promenade, women ol foshiuu wore a mantle, the beauty of which was best displayed by the stj le in which it exposed the rL'lit breast, and was thrown over the left shouldc r. Thosemantles wete invariably white, and so tine in texcure that the incdrricrible Pctronius speaks of them as of "woven wind." Fashionable Roman women also wore white kid boots. The "purple women" generally wore sandals, to as to let iheir feet be seen those finely shaped, large Roman feet, which our mo dem taste would admire more had they been smaller. Extreme care was bestowed upon the nails of tha feet nnd hands. There was one special slave invested with the resron ibility of keeping the nails of her mistress properly pared, cleaned, and tinted. Women never wore t loves, yet they delicately cherished their hands and tiueers. They kept them beautiful, not by idleness alone, but by a ai iety of cosmetics in'tt'nded to render the skin solt, tmooih, nnd flower like. And as the customs of those dayi made the finsers ol women speak eloquently in adroit gesticulation, the beauty of the hand could not be overlooked. Horace makes fun of some origiunl wag inde pendent enough to cm his own nails and dis pense w lib the services ot barber or slave. In loolcina at some of the jewels of l ompeii, one is surprised to find how very fond were the kelies ol the snake form, and how they pre lerred having rings aud bracelets representing eeipents. Gold serpents were among the amulets, more or less decent, that hung from necklaces, and were used to conjure uway dis tressing influences. Even living snakes were petted by Roman belles, who carried them nio.nd their arms, and, for coolness' sake, even let Ihem lie curling on their bosoni". For cool ness' take also, did they carry smooth rock crystal balis In' their hands, while the slave lamed their heated laces and necks. After the lashion ot ran-yine thoe crysial bolls had be come so univeri-al that the Alpi failed to yh-ld a siifllcicnt quuntify of crystal, yellow amber was substituted. Juvenal tells us that tbe amber ball was never to much prized, and ne er so (eliclous to holci, as wheu ir issued, frairrunt,- warm noui toe ,iina 01 a luir girl. l'nns and parufo's liae'l their place ftmontr the appurtenances of a woman's toilet, aud were coiifidcied obi' cts of luxury by their r.in?niti cence and dchcMe woiKtiianship. The tans were moiitly made of very thin pieces of pie c ons wood cr ivory, covered all over with the mtnulest down ol the rmesl ol b'ucX Well, we have If oked long enoueb to be made sad, into the fr cinr.tiono ntid lollies of tl.e poor bea'hen women who weie smothered in the ashes of Pompeii so many ago ago. Their volcanic tomb has preserved all these silent wit nesses to show how the passions, the ambitions, the vanities of women are ever the same, and how even the tiinkets with which they bedeck themselves express the same Lotions or beaUt". nnd use the t ame materials, and almost the same loims. Only the lovely peivons for wb,Qni h, ex i ravneai.T expenses were iucn';:e,l, such Ynfl Sin i10"?8 b,PB,0,,x''. ttich untiring thought &. .?nlj "8e love,J WOTilen 'beni'e.vee "-llso .on, patsed away so t'tterly. Ml'StCAnNSTRlWENT" "jra Si'IielMAl KEll PIANO r Oil i E 1 k 6 i i am i. e 'i rmso ( OJii'AST'S xkw h i OI K. Ko. lli.l t li v sM'T street We reaiiectiutlr cull He Ict.i.ol oluur Irli nils inul die pub Ic generally cjI emr ifrD'.ovai to our new unit nuuelsonie Wrerooius, UlFAlcD i.OW.Ko. Ma e.HtS MJ I' Street, where we lime c LHIH' ly d linnun inrue nuvt ui imr miunur Dd till ;y I rit-1 ed !"iU re an. Uranil 1'lar.oH. A'urh Bin n.cnlfi biiVf betn iiWnrdud t.ie highest pro imuii a k all tl.e ) r.i cl t L.bltluns . vei tieirt la .1114 coui try. w Hh liiiii.cicus lesiiun nia b 'roil tha Irdt c,hi eit'n s In nicrlra unci ! uiope. '1 lioj are new the leading 1 iiicos and alefo 1:) tails 01 il woi'd. , , I'm tg (cflrlDg to jmrctiai-e aflrst-claBa Piano a,' prcatlv hcuku rates il ou d not il to give us c II I linos lo lent luuiuK "1 nioviiiR p oino ly at tirc'rdto "kcho.MAC KFM & e;o., 4 23 lui Jio 1H3 itUKSMVf Streot I r J ret. UC liiiemJi, '! ...... 1... l i)l it iiiu.iii.iii tlKar Casts, l'orlfidlcs, DrcNslng Cases, RiinUers' CaMS. Ladiea and Ucnls BatchL'lH and Travelling- Bnga, in all uiyles. STAMPING IN COLORS C.RATIS.-A TINE Lstbrement 01 Fnnlwh French and eicnnau i-AJ i-K A M K ' V ti-LOFe B. Ui lutest London and l'arls Btyle or VIM'IU A&D. W1I)I0 CARPS. . A arre a ock ot l-OCKLl-BejOKS, KNIVE. aa pripTnTTira WH1 1 IKCl-tlF.SKH POI?TrOl.l" snd v deicrlptlon cl Stationary at reosouabi prie MOOGBAMaENOHAVEn. milREF GENERAL. AGENTS WANTED TO J- act in liiii ortmit lot-atlousfortbe New York Aeoh dental limn ance Company. Active men ol food addross, ai i lv to KUA K O. ALLEN, Ural.1 lyflic;, io. 4IP v - lt il wk:ti0 I., II Kiii.it 5 It CAhl :i, ,H iv mi 1 ik a i.v;,, .,,.. I Sue he'. 11 rjii I'Owtci IJ . Rl HuoU IJ ,3itio., io. ,jjr FURNITURE AND BEDDING. "YVALSUT ClIAMIiER SUITS, IK OIL OR rOLISHID. GEORGE J. 1IEXKELS, TI11RTEESTII AND C11E6NUT BTREETS. s UITS OF WALNUT TARLOR FURNITURE in oil ob rousm.n. GEORGE J. IiENKELS, THIRTEENTH AND CHE8NUT STREETS. gUHS OF ROSEWOOD CHAMBER FURNITURE. GEORGE .1 HEN EELS, 4 12trp THIRTEENTH AND CI1KSXUT STREET. ruiiNiTUKi:. RICHMOND & FORETAUGII, No. 40 South SECOND St., West Side, M AJi VFACTUREB9 OF SITERIOR CABINET FURNITURE, Ul'HOLSTKllED (JOODH. rarlor (nltk In Vumh, Ilopn Hair ( tnlh. etc. MulnK-Koom, DlnlDK-Uocm, and t baniber BiliU In Walnut, MnLonoiiy, nak, heduut. etc., utgetlier wltli t rained imitations ot tbe ahore woods, which couie very ow, should too dOKlre anylbtns In our line, ft will be to jour advan to ca I and enamlnc rur .ock. nntcd i nn Inme and varied as can be lound anywhere, and PlilCEH THE LOWEcT. RICHMOND & FOREI'AUIH, 8 29 No. 40 Ponth BECOjD 8treet FU K N I T U R E.-THE LARllEST, ( bcapeit end Kent Stock of Furniture In tbe n oild la to be lound ai OCjI LU CO.'S TMO Fl ltSlll RE DEPOT. COKNER OF MM II .UD MAHKKT STREET9, aid oi. 37 and 39 N I-COM) Street. Parlor buiiH, in 11 ail. brocade, I'lush, Damaak, or Pep. Dining-room. bambor, Library Kitchen, and Office fa nil ure, at labu outly low prices, and the newest st; 'ci aid patterns. Public Buildmir School, College, and Phop Fori Iture In end 1 pr ar.etr. All kinds ot Furniture wanted by hoanekeepers. at excrcdingly tow piicts at etibcrot Ibelrlirimense estab lishments It jou mit to save Uionuy and get well smed go to COl'll) & CO. l.eloie purchasing ele nhtie tomerofMMH and M A HKhT, and Nos. 11 and 39 N. SEC ONI) Htrect. i 10 So COURTNEY &-WILLITS, Nos. 14 and 16 S. Seventh St., Fhilada. iiam.facturi:ks of BEAUTIFUL COTTAGE 1TRNITUBE JiSD THE ONLY DI EAHLE IN IHE CITY. Also, lining-Room. Furniture, AND BEDD1SG. constantly on hard. 4 23mw2m g ? R, I N G. BEDDING OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, HOLESALE AND ltKTATL, AXO MATERIALS FOB TUE BA&iE. IJESX QUALITY AND STYLE OF SPRINi, MATTRESSES. J. S. FULLER, 4 llsiutl Sm No. 9 a. SEVENTU Street. ICE COMPANIES. TCE 1 ICE ! ICE ! ICE ! ICE! INCORPORATED 1864. THOMAS E. CAI1IIL, Prosldcnt. JOHN GOODYEAR, Secretary. HENRY THOMAS, Superintendent. COLD SPRING ICE AND COAL COMPANY Dealers in ar.d iShipi ers of Ice and Coal. W e are now prepared to lurnlgh best quality Ice In large or small quantities, to hote s, steamboats, ice cream salcons. lamlllcs, offices, etc. and at the lowest mabket bates. Ico served dailt In all paved limits ot the consolidated city, West Philadelphia, Mantua, Klch mend, and Ocrmantown. Your custom and Influen.-e is respectlully solicited You can rely on being served !t'Hl a rt fE art'cle ana hiojjmlt. Htnd your order id OFFICE, Xo. 435 WALNUT STREET. TiKPOTb. S. W. corner rwLLFTH and WILLOW Streets. Korth I enrsylvenlu liallroaa and At AslEK Street. LO SI BAUD and TWEST Y-FIFTH btrceta. 1'lMi (street Wharf, chnyUiU, 4 72m4p REMOVAL! REMOVAL! OLD DRIVERS' ICE COMPANY, BtAlOVtli FKSM X. W. CCBNIR 8IXTEEUTH AS1) riACE, TO Bread Sheet, Above Race, East Side ai lLe lowest market rates. 11K-?S, JOrXSON & DAVI3. OLD DRIVERS' ICE COMPANY. 1l.e tiiK'erplined. ifcllrg exctedli y thanklul to hit n sry fr ti os aid cuslunitrs lor their Tcry liberal patron ie xt(i.tle-d lo biu: duima the iast seventeen years, aud Laving to d his en'iie Inte itst to 'nsn,s. lli.H JUKKnOX A I)AVIJ. Tike? pltanne in r'eton mt-nd ujr tnem 10 his former pa reus as ti er are hciitlcinen ut' well knoitn Inieiltv snd will unluuhled v nn.lrialn ihe renutation ol the 0L1 UBl VKI' Il t O.MPAKV.and inevcrvwav act to ss to cive entire FHiUlactlon to a!l who ma? ktnd.j 'avoi tl.imwl h their cusiom. Kespeet oily, e'e , 1 2lm A snuvii, JEErCOOLIi KEEP COOL!! CHARLES S. CARPEJSTER & CO., WHOLESALE AM JttT A IL ICt D i: A I. E U S No. 717 WILLOW, Above Franklin St. Families supplied satUlac oriiy and at reduced rates. Dealers and iarve consumers turnlched on reasonable Uras. C HAKLKS I'AKPEMEB JOUN t,LEM)KNlNO. JcjSfcPti M. 1 ROMAN, Jr., 8 22 1m Proprietors I ASTERN ICE COM PAN Y". SE ASON OF L 1816 - 8 ibn. dally . DO cents per eeki VI lbs dallv. IS cems per weckt 10 lb. Oiiiy, ceuis per wwi lbs daily. 1 Oft per week Depot. No U41 VIUttN ttreet below 1UI d. TllOM V8 J. L OKS, 0 1 ouna p. dibits, rp II E SUBSCRIBE R, iFor mny years conncc.ed with MITCHELL'S 8A LOOKS, a 6i HLKM'T btseet". wou'd rrspectfully Inlorm his lrleqc s aud tbe publlo encrally. that he has opened an " ( , Ice Cream and Refreshment Saloon, FOB LAMES AND OESTLEMEK, AT Ko. I 121 CHESNUT STREET, (GIRARD ROW), Where he Lores, bv strict attention to business, to merit tha patronage of all who may favor him w tn their cus tom. JACVB U. jsuKunaiJ" 1 BUA vui VIA, M y , 1WW- t CLOTHING. or f4 .A Ay UNDKIl ' 7 f THE (Offltttaial Hotel, T. OF F. C. F. F. F 0 CLOTHIISTG III LIICKS' TEMFLE OF FASHION. Celel rated For Fine Fashionable Clothiner. WILLIAM II1CKS, No. Sioa MA15KET Strpet, !2 2m PHILADELPHIA. g'JATES UNION CLOIHING HALL, 606 MARKET Street, 608 Visitors will find a large and varied assortment ot the very best KEADY-MADE CLOTHING at the locreBt oath prices. Suits, containing Coats, rants, and Vest, trom "12 00. Dusters, f 2 25. Pants from $3 flO and higher. Come ai.d convince yourselves. i5 31 3m CjOfTO $45 FOR A SUIT OP HLACK OP tptJtJ lancy colored cloth; army and navy ciolhln; J o . in stvle unsurpusieJ. 4TPmrn KABH. v o 11 KISTH St.. above Cbesna t. N o c E. I, JOHX EDGAR TUOMSON, Trustee In a ceitaln Indenture 01 Jlortusge of the piopcrty kerelnal'ter de sciibed executed by the Tyrone and t leairlt'ld Ualiroad Company to mo, as Mor gagee in Tiust, to secure the panuntol the principal and interest ot bonds of said Company to the amount ot S-'8 MM) which Mortgage is elateu the 12th day ot May. A. I). 1859. and recorded In the ofl.ee lor recording deeds, etc . in and lor the counrv or Blair, on the lKth day 01 A' ay, A D. ltv'A In mortgige book A, pages 6t'3 4-6-6-7 and 0, nnd In tbe odice tor re cording duds. etc.. In and lor the conntv ot Centre, on the l'Jth day it If ay, A D. 1859 In mortgago book K, page 170 etc , do hereby give notice that deiault havtna teen made for more than ulnely anys In tlio payment of the Interest due and demanded on the said bon is, I will, in puisuance of the written tequestto me directed 01 the holders ot more than (Ml IhiU in amoum of the said bonds, and by virtue of the power conieried ution me in that respect by tlte said uorigpge expose to public sa:e and sell 10 the hl( hest and bust bidder by VI. iHOM.'S SONS. Auclkreers at the PHU.ADKLPHIA EX t'H GK. In ihecliv o i bllaelpliia. on Thursday, the 21th dnv of Pcptrmber A D. It66 upon the terns and conditions hereiuaiter stated, the vhoe of the said n. on gated preu.ln s, viz. : The whole 01 thut sect on of said Tyrone nJ Clear field Kallroad irom the point of Intersection with the 'lyronear.d lock liaven liailrond near Tyrone. Ulalr county, 1 ennsylvaiua to l'hl llpsbuig Centre county, Pennsylvania us Ite same if now constructed togoiher mm an ui 11 sinu ar iue rauwayii, runs, orulges. fences, privileges, rightu, and all real property of eery dcscrlpiion acquired by and belonging to said Cruipant . aiid all tbe tolls. Income, Issues, and proflu to be di rived and to a'le trom the ssme. aud a 1 the lands used and occupied lor railways depoti, or sta tions betwein said points, with a 1 the buildings stand ing Ihervon or procured .hoi clor AND GLNtBALLY. All lie 'anils, ruilwavs. rails, bridges, culverts, trest'e wctks, tool bouses, coa! bouses wharves, icnces, rlghti of wny, workshops, machinery, s'Ulous, depots, depot grounds, works, maourv. and other supeisiructure, ical estate buildings snd Improvements or whatever natuie or kind appertaining or belonging to the above mentioned propei tv and 10 the said section of said Tvioue and i earilc d 1 aiiruad, and owned by suid Com pany in connection thercwi h. 'J he salu tection of the Tyrone and C'esi field Railroad, extending from he Intersection ot the vrone and flea' field Railroad wiih the rai road .ormerly be'ongtng to the 'l .vrone and Lockhave n Kallro id c ompany, but now to tiie Paid Kag e Vttlev hailroad Company, is about ii) miles in euith. Timta OF SALE. 81P,(0O of the purcliasc money 10 be paid Incathwhen the pioperty is sUiica otr, aud the balance wltalu M days tlierialler PaI Jul' NT on account of tbe aaidbaance of purchase liioi.ev, to tbe ex em of itio dividend thereof poyaoie on the bonne secured by the suld mortgago and 1)10 ma tuicd coupons ol the said bonds may he made In the said bonds 01 coupors; and If tbe dividend is less than the aclunlmui cue upon the said bonds or coupons, tne holders mry retain posserslon o' the said bonds iml coupons on receipting to the said Trustee for thesnid divide sd. and eni'trnlng fayineut of tbe lime on the stud bonds or coupons. I pon the purcbase mnnev being paid as atoresata the Trustee will execute and deliver a di ed 01 conveyance 01 the preml'ea to the puichaser or purchasers in pur suance 01 tuepov.ee conlerred upon him by tbe said moitgage. Any lurtber Information In respect to anld sa'e or pienilses maybe hsd upon application to the under sii ncd Trustee, at the cilice ol tbe Pennay.vsnla ltttli roui Ccmpauy, ISO. 238 H. 1 bird sireec. Phi ad phla. JOHN ELGAK lilt IM "OS. I rustce, So. 238 S '1 BIND Street W. THOMAS AhOH. Auc'ioneers, 8 21 niftm Nob. 139 and 141 H KOCK1II street. On and After llonday, June 4, 186G A PASSENdKU TliAIN 3 O 11 II K A D 1 N O . AND iNl EllMEDiATt STaIIONs. will ,eavo Depo'.. ..iji i TLtMii auu CAl.i-i'V ulLL ate e . ; o a. aj Amvitik at ilcauini. :n imeto tonaeci vit.. i.x'jrn-s Jran.s North. I ast a d West. Passengers tolny North irom all stations Jc.wcei. Phiiaelelpbia and leading, ex ept orrlstown. I hojulx vli e. and fotiMown will iske this train Ihe Ale KMNU LXl RttS TUAI.N will leave Phlla delphia at 815 A. M. Ptot ping onlv at Norrlsiown, PbanlxvlUe. Potttown HesdniL and points on ine no. In hue above Heading, an I the L BAN OA VALLh, Y bllANCH. rJlie S'45 P. M. from Pottnville WlllOT SIO1' at stations SuT'lH of Pcaillng, except pO'n8Ti'WN.PH0eKMXVlLLk.,and NOKltl TOWN A Train ill leave Heading at G MO 1 M., fteirolngat all Statins, and arriving at Ttilni'.ciphia at 010 P.M. e,4ri Q 1! E E N E A S, ejJlrfcN CORK, tliKfeU l'tACtir., KKrtH JOHAlOKi! fl.UMSi Al-JilORT'O. HOUKHT8 DEALIR IN USE GhOLElE 918 4p Cm. ELLVKin u ,Id ViKE Stiee:f. Oil R NFXT POVERNOK CLTMETt OR GvaKY as mav re chosen together with ilia tVENING IVCLIPPEK.EIC, n ay le obtained as usual at n C mvi Vl 6Vi.. lU Mtd CUttf.Nli Utt -KA824 Chestnut 8TREET- - ? . t ' a x I XT' til 1 WATCKE-, JEWELRY ETC 11 wTi itr),jf;wr:T.'.Y .'tnAiiit, LTCJtiiaudJS::!. ; :..::A:Ria Cwlrgto tie icllre nl CoV, fcss mi rat 4 nt t lea In prlct of Listeria sbo we I sttortetl stock Dinmonels, VRtch. Jvelry Silverwrre?, Kto. lit public sic rrsrectfnllj Invited to call and examine cor stock before rurchaedng e.iewbere. 2 i I SILVER AJSD PLATED GOODS, v mr-. r : xrr 1 i - luufti. oujjciiur vv ur&mansnip, AT THE N 1 : VV S T fl FI . No. 704 ARCH STREET. Ihe nndersl,nrd (late of tie famous Rogers B'os'. IMsnutBciurliig Companrl rptctully annouuee that tbev have openrd a new snd beau Hi a store tor the sale ot 8ILVhR and i'U til) W.iKi;. at No. 704 ABCJH (itreet. Our l ng expulence as manu adorers will enable us 10 keep nothliig but flrst-clats Goods, and. tho.e who mny patronise our a. ore will find our pa ted gcods iai supeilor to any ever Imported, and our cus tomers n ay teiy on the fcoods being preo'sely what they are rrpretcn'.ed to be. 5 2k BOWMAN LIOKARa MUSICAL BOXES. A full arrortmcut ot ateve goods eonstantlr on betd at mode, ate prices thii Vlusical Boxes playln Irom 2 to lObtaniiful Aba I ARE & EEOTHER, Importers. No. 814 1 11 Kt NL'l 8TB llllcmtlrp Below Kourth. STUDS FOR EYELET HOLES. A LARGE AND ELEGANT ASSOHTMEXr, FOR SALE BT LEWIS LADOMUH, 616t No. HO CHK8NUT St O. RUSSELL & CO., o. fll North SIXTH St., INVITE ATTENTION TO IHtIR FL'LL STOCK OF FINK WA'JCIJES, JLWILRY, AND FANCY AND PLAIN SILVER WAEE OF EYEHY DLSCKIPTIOX. t52tJ RICH JEWELRY JOHN BEEN NAK, f DEALER IN DIAMONDS, FINE WATCHES, JEWELRY- Etc. Etc. Etc. 9 21 i Ho. 18 8. EIGHT H Si iiT, ftulada. GFtOCERIES. TEAS REDUCED TO $1, AT INGRAM'S Tea Warehouse, No. 48 S. BECOSD Htreet. BOASTFD COFFEE REDUCED TO ,)0 CTS at IN GKA Al'b 'lea Warehouse, No. 43 8 SECOND Mrctt. 40 C. REST MILD COFFEE, AT INfJRAM'3 iea narcuouse, AO w . HjblJUMi street. rrtEAS AND COFFEES AT WHOLESALE J. prices, at IJ.GKAM't lea Warehouse, No. 41 . hECON 1 Street. Try them. REEN COFFEES FROM 22 TO 28 CTS. A T pound at IN GUAM'S Tea Warehouse, No. 43 S (EC ON I) Street Try them 110 6m LIQUORS. (TiLSiUT GROVE WHISKY, No. Ki North THlIiD Srroet. Jt ecvtllng niisw(.uttd to piov the absolute purltj 01 this Whisky, tbo leiliowing certificate should dolt 1 here Is no a coholio stiir.Hluiit known coromandiugsupt tiin.u iiikatitn 1 cm kui li liiili douiccsi 1 iiilalh.i lia, Keptemberg la-ig We have csrenl y uMid tl.e suuipie 01 e HEhmjT (U.OVi. WHISKY ml.ichjou send us, and fluctbatlt ci .mains kom; or 11.E roitokois siuHtancb known ai nsiLoiL vbieh is the ebaructer.ft'o aud Injurious la kieeilint ol the whlfl.ies iniciitra ate BOOiH. OAKlilTT CAMAO, Analytical CheiulsU Sew Yobk, September I lbH 1 l ave snalvzcd a sample ol CHtM T Qu E V UlbhY rcccivtu irom Ar Charles Wharton. Jr.. of 1 htiiie.elphlu! end laving caruiultv tested It, I ann p ei sed to state that It la entire v kkkk vhom PoisoMotf iu LttniiHif subr lames It Is an unusually pur H'U l.ne-llavoicd qua lly ol whlskv. J A AILS It t Hft.TON. M. D.. Analytical C heiuis LosTOH, March 7 1A59 itavenade a chenii el ar.a 5 sis ol commercial tam p'es of CliV.'-M1'' jL0VE W dl-KY. which provests icirc c liem the benvy r ull (liis. ai d perleuily pure an 111 1 eiul'ci aled '1 he tine llhvcr ol this whisky la derive 11.111 lie noiii uied iu oianulacturiiig It. lesptct:uliy A. A. ll. YES. M D. ! late itsovei, fio lit UoyistonaueeL cr rsie 01 srrei.flc mronn. ci boii.e atNo. 226Norti 1U1II) Street F hllade.ptln 41 y A T If A y S A- S O N s, I M I C) Tt rJ 15 li s BRANDIES, WINES, GINS, Etc. Etc. Ho. 19 North FRONT Street PHILADELPHIA. MOBK8 KATHAKB, IiOKACK A. NATFAK6, OBUUDO D NAlllAa B. 119m ESTABLISHED 179 15. A. S. ROBINSON, French Plate Looktng-Glasses, ENGRAVINGS PAINTINGS, DRAWINGS ETC Alanutaoturer of all kinds of I.ooUinc-OlafB, Portrait, and Pio lure l'rBmes to Order. No. 810 CHESNUT STREET, TDIBD DOOB AEOVE THE CONTINENTAL, ruiLAPKLmiA. 9l6 j WATCHES, JEWELEY, &c. !