All Gardens
Great & Small
t by
York Co.
Horticultural/
Tom Becker
An Eleven Step
Program To Kill
Your Trees
Everyone loves shade trees
except when they are dead or
dying trees. Proper tree care
begins with good tree selection,
mulching and fertilization.
_ Sometime the best way to leant
Jnw to properly care for trees is to
what not to do; ergo Dr.
Treevorkian’s prescriptions.
Many ‘what not to do’s’ seem
quite obvious no-nos. In some
communities neighbor after
neighbor repeat poor tree care
practices. Here's die eleven steps
to kill your trees.
Plant a tree in the wrong place.
Put a flowering dogwood or
Japanese maple in hot, full sun
and you will provide the type of
stress that encourages dogwood
borers or Verticillium infections
of roots on the maple. The tree
suffers a slow decline and death.
Don’t pave an area above tree
roots or cut the roots when making
changes in the grade.
Plant pestiferous trees. Plant
European white bark birches and
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sit back and watch the bronze
birch borers arrive. Plant a single
tree type. Wait for a pest or dis
ease causing organisms to have a
feast. Examples include Dutch
elm disease on American Elms or
Euonymous scale on euonymous
shrubs.
Change the soil grade. Add soil
over the root system or plant too
deep and just wait for the resulting
stress to cause your tree to decline
and die a slow death.
Overmulch. Adding 6-8 inches
of organic mulch or more instead
of the recommended 2-3 inches,
especially by mounding it around
the trunk helps promote crown
rots by keeping the trunks moist
Overmulching results in overly
wet soils for extended periods, and
provides great hiding places for
bark-feeding rodents in the winter.
Provide poor nutrition. Plant
pin oak, river birch, and white
pine in highly alkaline soils and
watch the results. These acid
loving plants will not be able to
get adequate iron from the soil.
Even with remedial care, the result
over the years is usually a declin-
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mg tree.
Prone pooily. By topping the
trees and leaving huge stubs leads
to tree decline and death. Remov
ing 70-80% of the foliage drasti
cally reduces the trees food
producing capacity. This blow to
the tree’s energy balance is sure to
pay off with premature tree death.
Girdle the plants. This is as
close to sure tree death as it gets.
Simply leave non-degrading twine
or wire used to tie the root ball
around the base of the tree. It will
be loose at fust, but gradually it
will tighten as die tree grows in
girth and eventually the twine or
wire will become imbedded in the
stem and be a barrier between the
Have The Right Tools For
UNIVERSITY PARK (Centre
Co.) Digging around in your
garden is not exactly brain
surgery, but like surgeons, every
gardener should have the right
tool for the right job.
Laymen may say that a shovel
is just a shovel, but a scientist in
Penn State’s College of Agricul
tural Sciences points out that real
gardeners need a spad and
about four other essential garden
ing implements.
‘These days there are catalogs
and stores with very specialized
equipment, but many gardeners
really just need some basic tools,”
says J. Robert Nuss, professor of
ornamental horticulture. “Once
you have a solid set of tools, then
you can branch out into specialty
equipment”
Nuss recommends five basic
tools:
•A long-handled spade. This
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food coming from the leaves
through the stem to the roots.
Without food the roots will die
and fail to send water up to the
leaves. Tree death with follow.
Let the soil dry out. On young
trees the root ball needs watered
weekly through the summer
months. Overfertilizing young
trees can ‘bum’ roots making it
harder for trees to survive a
drought.
Compact the soil around trees.
Heavy foot traffic, lawn mowers,
or automobiles can reduce oxygen
and water to tree roots. Also avoid
letting vines grow on trees that
deprive the tree of water and light.
tool is designed for digging. The
blade is straight and set at an angle
so it cuts easily into the soil. “A
spade is not a shovel,” Nuss
explains. “A shovel is designed
like a scoop and is used to move
material from one place to
another.”
•A spading fork. This tool has
flat, square tines and is used for
moving heavy soil. “Spading
forks are invaluable for preparing
soil in the spring and harvesting
some types of vegetables in the
fall,” Nuss says. “Don’t confuse it
with a pitchfork, which has round
ed, slender tines and is used to
move straw or compost.”
•A steel rake. These large rakes
are used to break up clay, to
smooth out soil, and to rake in fer
tilizers. “If the garden is large, get
a wide, heavy rake,” Nuss says. “It
wouldn’t hurt to have a wide leaf
rake for lawn work.”
•A hoe. Hoes are used to form
rows, cover seeds, move soil, cut
out weeds and make holes for
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Bang a lawnmower into the
bark. Trees that are injured at the
base never recover from severe
injury. String trimmers also cut
the bark leading to premature
death.
Vandalize a neighbor’s tree.
Vandals express their anger by
defacing young or old trees. Ways
to prevent vandals include plant
ing large trees (minimum of 2”
caliber), prune lower limbs to at
least 8’ above the sidewalk or use
trees with thorns.
Any questions regarding the
above article can be addressed to
Tom Becker, Penn State Coopera
tive Extension at (717) 840-7408.
Gardening
planting seedlings. “Hoes come in
all types and sizes, but most gar
deners don’t need heavy ones,”
Nuss says. The most versatile hoes
are dual-purpose models, with a
triangular cutting head on one side
and a cultivating tool with three
tines on the other side.”
•A hand trowel. Any hand tool
that makes gardening more effi
cient is an invaluable addition to
the homeowner’s arsenal of tools.
“Hand tools are best for marking
rows, weeding, making furrows
and moving small plants,” Nuss
says.
Nuss says when it comes to gar
dening, choosing a big tool isn’t
necessarily better. “Heavy tools
are fine for big people, but if you
are short on size or energy, pick
smaller tools,” he explains. “The
same logic applies to picking the
best handle length. Tools are
extensions of the body and should
be used for extra leverage or reach
when pulling or cutting.”
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