Path of progress leads dairy farmers to maple sugaring BY DONNA TRUESDELL percent open land compared to the Staff Correspondent current 8 percent. Some old ACWORTH, NH - From dairy sugarbushes still remain in the farming to second largest area, but most have not been producer of maple syrup in the maintained or replaced. United States this is the path of In the late 1800’s nearly every progress that has been followed at farmer made maple syrup, Ken and Bruce Bascom’s family perhaps because there really farm. wasn’t a market for milk. Maple Ken is the fifth or sixth was also the main source of sugar, generation to sugar and his son It was found in every general store Bruce will soon be taking over the from New England to the Midwest, business. However, sugaring was Maple sugar was stored in large only a side-line during their blocks which were scraped or dairying years. The Bascom’s herd broken to obtain the amount of of 50 Holsteins was sold in 1964. sugar to be sold. With the This was a very difficult decision production of cane sugar, the for the Bascoms because Ken had market for maple has changed to raised nearly all of the herd syrup primarily. Since that time himself. the maple business has declined Currently the farm operation considerably in terms of amount of includes sugaring and related product produced. Bruce Bascom maple equipment business as well believes that maple sugaring could as some production and sale of be rediscovered as the farm hay. The farm consists of 600 acres economy changes, with approximately 500 of that At Bascom’s being on the being woodland. Two neighboring forefront of new developments in farms were recently purchased to sugaring has been a philosophy. In prevent development by con- 1939 with 600 buckets and tractors. Ken believes that “once production of 100 to 150 gallons of the land is paved over, you won’t syrup, they began using tractors get it back. ” instead of horses to collect the sap. His son Bruce sees sugaring as a Over the years as neighbors possible way for troubled farmers stopped sugaring, the Bascoms to increase the income from their added more taps and buckets, land and thus possibly save more In 1950 tubing was used for the farms. Many New England and first time. “Tubing” involves Mid-Atlantic farms include sugar attaching plastic pipe to the taps maples along the road (known as rather than handing a bucket on road trees) or in the woodlands, the spout. Tubing was still in the “There is the potential to increase experimental stage and was laid gross income by $5,000 to $lO,OOO a on the ground then. After six or year through sugaring,” predicts seven years of research, tubing Bruce. was suspended in the air between Sugar maples are an “un- the trees and a better method of tapped” resource on many farms, sealing it around the taps was Another advantage is that the developed. Following this, vacuum sugaring season usually runs from pumps were used to pull on the mid-February to mid-April. This is tubing, bringing more sap out of often a slow time in terms of work the tree. on the farm. Tubing has been a great labor Sugaring at Bascom’s began in saving advance. In 1955 Ken the 1800’s on the original Bascom had 5,500 buckets set; homestead which is one mile away today they have 32,000 taps. One from the current Bascom’s man can collect as much sap in two Sugarhouse. Bruce is very hours from tubing using a pump knowledgeable in local history and and tank mounted on a truck as notes there were 180 active five men could collect in one day sugarbushes (orchards of sugar from buckets. Bruce Bascom took maples) in the late 1880’s in Ac- tubing one step farther when he worth. Now there are only eight. At and three others formed the U.S. that time New Hampshire was 85 Maple company, which produces with maple syrup. Bascom's Sugarhouse is a family operation which includes: (front) Cindy, Ruth, Keith; (back) Liz, Bruce and Ken Bascom. Bascoms also uses the reverse osmosis process in sugaring. This is a machine which exerts 500 pounds of pressure on the sap, forcing the water in the sap through a membrane and resulting in a solution of 6 to 8 percent sugar. If sap is left overnight to circulate through this machine it may reach a sugar content of 20 percent. There are several advantages to this system including; less boiling equipment is needed yet production of syrup is increased, less fuel is used to heat the sap, and the grade of syrup will be better because it is not over the heat as long. Sugaring itself begins at Bascoms around Feb. 14 when they begin to tap. The total process of “setting” trees takes ten days and the first “run” of sap usually oc curs at the end of February. Sugaring depends a great deal on the weather with nights in the 20’s and days in the 40 to 50 degree range being the best. The vacuum pumps used on the tubing at Bascom’s are controlled by thermostats which start the pump when the temperature is above freezing. One 5,000-tap section of tubing at Bascom’s is located below the sugarhouse. In this case the sap is sucked down to the valley and is then pumped back up to the sugarhouse by a deep well pump operating on a float system in the collection tank. After going through reverse osmosis the sap enters a heat exchanger system which brings the temperature of the sap to 200°F. by circulating it through copper pipes surrounded by steam. Following this preheating it enters the evaporator pan where the water is boiled off to make syrup. The Bascom’s evaporator pan was custom made in St. Louis two years ago. The boiler under the pan uses oil for fuel and produces steam which is piped in to result in a “steam-jacketed pan.’’ The bottom of the evaporator pan reaches a temperature of 300°F. yet does not burn the syrup due to the new steam system. A suction fan over the evaporator pulls the steam out of the sugarhouse. It takes approximately 40 gallons of sap to make one gallon of maple syrup. This may vary slightly depending on the sweet ness of the sap. Approximately 20 minutes after the sap enters the pan it is boiled down to syrup. The evaporator at Bascoms typically produces around 40 gallons of syrup an hour. From the evaporator the syrup is pumped through a filter press which uses pressure to filter out sugar sand. This is a granular substance like sand which is in the syrup. Liz Bascom explained that ic jugs for filling Ken Bascom waits on a customer at the small retail display in their sugarhouse. and sells tubing and fittings. In a free moment Ken Bascom quenches his thirst with sap collected in an antique wooden sap bucket. sugar sand is pulled by the sap from the rocky soils which the sugar or “rock” maples grow well After filtering, the syrup is kill any bacteria. Bascoms sells graded by comparing the color to their syrup on both a retail and that of a standard for each grade, wholesale basis. They have Maple syrup is graded primarily established much business in by color, although flavor is a selling to corporations. In this case consideration and must match the they can syrup in the corporation’s color produced. container, add a gift card, and ship The grades of syrup include as requested. They have even Grade A light amber, medium secured a contract to sell syrup amber, and dark amber. All of into England. t these are table grades of syrup in The buying and selling of bulk which the color and richness of the syrup has become almost a second flavor vary. Light amber typically business for the Bascom family, has a delicate flavor while dark Currently under construction is a amber has a more robust taste. 50 x 120-foot two-story warehouse Pure maple syrup is all maple as for storage of maple equipment compared to the typical pancake and bulk syrup, syrup purchased in the grocery Although Bascom’s Sugarhouse store which is made of com syrup, and maple business has expanded sugar, water, and only 2 percent greatly over the past years, it maple syrup. continues to be a family business. Maple syrup is also used in Currently Ken and Bruce share the commercial food production and in business equally. In five years Ken commercial baking. Grade B ' looks forward to fulfillment of their Cooking Syrup is used for this plans for his retirement when he purpose and is a darker, more will decrease his workload strong flavored syrup. Liz, Bruce’s wife, works in the At Bascom’s Sugarhouse the sugarhouse and conducts tours of syrup is stored in 30-gallon drums the sugarhouse for visitors. Ruth, or in 2,000-gallon storage tanks in Ken’s wife, bakes her special their warehouse. Inside the - Maple Pecan Pie during the maple storage tanks is an ultraviolet light season which she sells at their which kills any bacteria that may retail display. enter the tank as it is vented while Despite an extremely poor year the syrup is pumped in. In order to for sugaring in 1986, the Bascom use the storage tanks Bascoms family has found sugaring to be a must have large quantities of the “sweet” enterprise for their New Hampshire family farm. same grade of syrup, The syrup is recanned in retail containers as needed. It must be heated to 200°F. before canning to :s I x .. « *