Lancaster farming. (Lancaster, Pa., etc.) 1955-current, July 20, 1985, Image 26

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    A26-Lancaster Farming, Saturday, July 20,1985 _ ,
— Best time to seed alfalfa
NEWARK, Del. - It will soon be
time to put in alfalfa, for farmers
who prefer fall seedings. It’s
important to be ready for this
operation since alfalfa is an ex
pensive crop to plant. “Some very
important decisions must be made
in order to give a fall seeding every
possible chance to succeed,” says
University of Delaware extensions
agricultural agent Dean Belt.
Factors to consider when
planting alfalfa include site
selection, soil fertility and pH,
varietal selection, soil preparation
and inoculants. Belt recommends
the following procedures.
Site Selection - Select a field
with deep, rich, well-drained soil
that can hold water during drought
conditions. “Alfalfa won’t tolerate
poor drainage,” the agricultural
agent warns. “So be choosy. Don’t
plant in a field just because it
happens to be available. And don’t
plant where high rates of triazines
have been used within the past
year.”
Fertility - Plan ahead for an
alfalfa planting. This crop uses
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high rates of calcium, phosphorus,
potassium, boron and sulfur. It
needs soils with a pH of 6.8 to 7.0.
Start liming at least a year before
the intended planting date. “A soil
test is a must to know what you are
starting with and what needs to be
applied,” Belt says. “If manure is
available, use it.”
Liquid manure can be used as a
top dressing but don’t put it on new
seedings. On older stands that are
thick and free of weeds only use
liquid manure between cuttings -
but never apply more than 5 tons
per acre. TTie nitrogen in the
manure will stimulate weedy
stands and you’ll lose your alfalfa.
Varieties There are many
excellent new varieties to add to
the old ones. Select those that have
done well in variety trials for
several years. “Use a new variety
only on a limited basis until it has
proven itself over a few years of
evaluation,” Belt says. “Contact
your local extension office for
information on the results of recent
variety trials.
Soil Preparation Before
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planting conventional alfalfa, the
soil needs to be worked into a fine
textured but firm condition.
Alfalfa seed should be placed no
more than V*- to Vj-inch deep.
Loose or poorly worked soil allows
seeds to fall through spaces,
becoming too deep for proper
germination. Using a cultipacker
before and after seeding works
well; or, for the ideal method, use
a cultipacker seeder.
“If you’re concerned about
weeds, apply Eptam or Balan
preplant incorporated 4 to 6 inches
deep according. to label in
structions,” the county agent
advises. “These herbicides do a
good job on grasses and some
broadleaf weeds, so use them on
pure alfalfa stands only. If
broadleaf weeds become a
problem, use 2,4-DB after alfalfa
seedlings have at least two
trifoliate leaves and weeds are no
more than 3 inches tall.”
Do consider no-till alfalfa, but
only on fields where the pH is at the
proper level, fertility is up and
weeds are under control. Barley or
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Other Models Available
wheat stubble makes an excellent
cover for a no-till seeding provided
the ground is level and perennial
weeds are under control. For
details, refer to the University of
Maryland publication,
“Establishing No-till Alfalfa,”
available from county extension
offices in Maryland and Delaware.
Inoculation is also very im
portant for a successful stand of
alfalfa. “Today many companies
preinoculate the seed prior to
bagging,” Belt says. “We strongly
suggest you inoculate the seed
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anyway.” Inoculants are small
living organisms called rhizobia.
They are easily killed by heat, so
it’s best to inoculate seed just
before planting. Store inoculants in
a refrigerator and observe the
expiration date.
Based on the above
requirements for a good stand,
farmers who plan to establish
some alfalfa this fall have much to
do before then. “Getting off to a
good start will greatly influence
the quality and longevity of the
stand,” BeltcondnHpc
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or 717-626-1164
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