B22—Lancaster Farming, Saturday, August 4,1984
ITHACA, NY Home gardeners
who aren’t quite ready to end their
gardening activities for the year
or do without fresh, home-grown
vegetables can expand the late
growing season with some simple
gardening techniques.
“Most late crops won’t be as
bountiful as those earlier in the
season, of course, but with some
care it is possible for gardeners to
enjoy cool-weather vegetables as
late as November and December,”
says Roger A. Kline, a vegetable
crop specialist for Cornell
Cooperative Extension. “The
secret is to provide some
protection for them.”
Warm-weather crops can’t be
kept growing once the weather
turns cooler, but they can be
protected from an early frost and
therefore can produce vegetables
through the early autumn. Kline
recommends covering the plants
with a blanket or other thick fabric
to keep the frost off them and to
help keep heat from the soil around
the plants.
Overhead irrigation can be used
for protecting warm-weather
crops such as tomatoes, squash,
and cucumbers from frost. When a
frost is predicted, the plants must
be sprinkled continually with
water, starting before dawn and
continuing for two or three hours
after dawn. As it freezes, the water
rieases heat energy that protects
the plants from frost.
“Even if plants are not killed by
frost, there will probably be some
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Gardening techniques
can extend growing season
tissue damage,” Kline says. “It
may show up as darkened lesions
or pitted surfaces after the crop
has been harvested. Eventually,
the colder days and lack of sun will
prevent the plants from gaining
any new growth.”
Cool-weather crops such as
lettuce, spinach, broccoli, and peas
can be kept growing later than
warm-weather crops. Ambitious
gardeners can have home-grown
salads even when there is snow on
the ground, if they plan ahead,
according to Kline who is in the
department of vegetable crops in
the New York State College of
Agriculture and Life Sciences at
Cornell University.
Late crops should be planted by
the end of July until mid-August.
Don’t seed them at the last minute;
cool-weather crops should be well
developed by the time the first
frost hits. During shorter days and
cooler weather, most crops require
two or more additional weeks to
develop than they do when growing
during warmer weather.
Carrots, leeks, and beets can be
protected from frost by mulching
them heavily to insulate them from
cold and to retain soil heat. Let
tuce, cabbage, parsley, and
spinach can be kept growing under
plastic tunnels that provide mini
greenhouse environments for
them.
“Plastic won’t protect against a
heavy frost, though,’’ Kline warns.
“For insulation, they’ll need to be
protected with a blanket or straw
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mulch, too.” A grow-box, with
wood sides and glass top, wil keep
crops growing longer, if the sides
are slightly buried and the top
shuts tight to prevent heat loss.
Peas, especially those that are
tolerant of powdery mildew and
root rot, make an excellent fall
crop.
Fall is also a good time to get a
head start on next year’s growing
season by testing the soil pH to see
if lime is needed. Manures can be
added and cover crops grown, but
fertilizer shouldn’t be added until
the spring.
Try mounding the soil into hills
18 inches across and 8 inches high.
In spring, these mounds will warm
up and drain quicker, and be ready
for planting two or more weeks
ahead of the rest of the garden.
For early spring salads, try
sowing spinach seed in September.
Mulching the young plants has not
always produced favorable
results; its benefit for spinach is
questionable. The spinach will be
ready to eat in April or May.
Garlic, for example, develops
larger bulbs when planted in fall
and harvested in mid-summer,
Kline says.
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What could be more pleasant on
a hot summer day than relaxing in
the cooling shade of an arbor or a
clump of trees surrounded by
colorful flowers? This enticing
image is just one of the reasons
why more and more gardeners are
finding shade gardens desirable.
Before selecting young plants to
color your shade garden, the ex
perts at Bedding Plants, Inc., and
educational group that provides
information on flower and
vegetable gardening, suggest that
you take a moment to evaluate
your growing conditions. While a
large group of annuals will grow in
a partially shaded area, only a few,
will tolerate a relatively heavy
shade. Plants may have to com
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FERTILIZERS
Helping the World Grow Better
pete with the roots of the trees they
will be grown under, and the soil
may be very dry there also.
For the greatest success, create
a high, more open shade by
pruning away some of the trees’
lower branches. If you have choice
in flower bed location, select a spot
that receives morning sun and
afternoon shade. Where tree roots
are a problem, seen especially
under maple trees, you may want
to consider slightly raised beds or
gardening in flower pots plunged
into the ground. When preparing
the soil, add extra organic matter
to overcome the dry soil problem
by increasing water retention
potential, and, for best results, be
sure the shade garden is in reach of
the garden hose.
The intensely colored, easy to
grow inpatiens is the flower most
chosen for the shade garden. Both
the fibrous and tuberous rooted
begonias are also popular for
shady conditions. What the coleus
lacks in flower appeal it more than
makes up with its multi-colored
leaves in a variety of shapes,
scallops and textures.
Besides these three favorites,
don’t overlook some of the other
annuals that grow and flower in a
partially shaded garden. These
include monkey flower(mimulus),
balsam, wishbone flower
(torenia), browallia, lobelia, baby
blue-eyes, nicotiana, salvia,
ageratum and forget-me-not.
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PH: 717-299-2571
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