Brownstone brings class on a budget
By Vincent Dangolovich 111 If you are desperate for food that is not mass-
Staff Writer produced in a campus cafeteria, anxious for a little
VWDsoo6@psu.EDu variety and the opportunity to get what you want,
or curious if it is even possible to find all of this on
a student’s budget; the solution rests right in the heart of Middletown. There is one
restaurant that delivers on promises of great food, copious options, and inordinately
low prices: The Brownstone Cafe.
You may not realize that the building at the 1 N. Union Street is actually a bustling
eatery. In fact, one look at its turn of the century stone exterior may confuse onlookers
into thinking it is actually a bank. The reason for this is simple, it was. According
to the Brownstone Cafe’s placemat (a strangely informative place setting) in 1893 it
was the National Bank of Middletown. Over the years it would change ownership and
name from the Farmers Bank to the Farmers Trust Company of Middletown, from the
National Bank and Trust of Central Pennsylvania to the National Central Bank. In
1983 it became Hamilton Bank, a Core State Bank, giving the building more than one
hundred years of servicing the community as a financial institution.
Because of its beautiful, natural stone architecture and its celebrated significance, the
Middletown Historical Restoration Commission presented the Commission’s Plaque,
designating the building as a historic Middletown landmark. Little did they realize
that in 1998, it would become a local attraction for a completely different reason.
Keith and Carole Matinchek, area natives and chefs, converted the building interior
and made it the town’s premier restaurant. Walking through the doors, one immediately
notices the lingering presence of the past. A bank vault door stands alongside the
entrance to a busy kitchen. Safety deposit boxes and a large decorative safe serve
as waitress stations for coffee pots and utensils. The walls are adored in black and
white photographs featuring the by-gone days of carriages and antique cars in the
Middletown square. A glance at the front wall shows a proud history for the restaurant
itself, five framed awards from Central PA Magazine including family dining (2005)
and casual American (2006-09).
The awards are no surprise to regulars like Tom Germak. An area electrician, he eats
at the cafe about once a month by his estimates. As the chill of fall approaches, you
can find him taking out hot lunches and coffee to his work crews. When asked how he
would describe it, he summed it up in just a few words.
“Very nice,” he begins, “quality food and nice people.” A simple, but good
description. Perhaps the main sign puts it in better terms: “Brownstone Cafe, your
family restaurant.”
Few embody and understand the family concept better than long time employee and
assistant manager Tanyan Lukesh. She has been with the business for 10 of its 11
years, working her way from busser, to hostess, to her current position.
“I think it’s more personal,” Tanyan explains. “We get a lot of regulars that come in,
some that have known Keith since he was a kid.” She goes on to point out that both
the Matinchek son and daughter have worked the floor helping out mom and dad. This
sense of family translates into a warm, welcoming atmosphere and providing superb
service.
Of course, fantastic, friendly service means little to the hungry patron without
tasty meals. Fortunately, the Brownstone
has more than enough. The menu boasts
several excellent choices
“Each person’s different,” says Lukesh
of the menu options, “that’s why it’s nice
to have the variety so, they have a wide
range to choose from.” You might wonder
if there is a particular favorite amongst
the items but, as Tayan notes, “we sell a
lot of everything so, it’s hard to tell ... the
absolute favorite.”
For a quick lunch that will warm you up, I
recommend the delicious variety of soups.
The cream of crab has gained notoriety
as being a sure winner at only $3.95 for a
bowl. One patron even confided that she
adds salt to everything but, never added
a grain to the flavor of the seafood soup.
I personally like the beef and barely, one
of the rotating daily specials, which pares
wonderfully with a roast beef on sourdough
sandwich for $5.95. If that sounds like a good price then you may want to try the
quesadillas. Made with two cheeses, bacon, tomatoes, scallions, and jalapenos served
alongside salsa, sour cream, and guacamole, these Mexican inspired treats are sure to
satisfy. If. you are in the mood for more Pennsylvanian fare, you must try the pierogi
sautded in olive, onions, and fresh garlic for $5.75. If you share them with a friend,
you will be bosom buddies for life. Served in generous portions, it is food that my
grandmother told me would “stick to your ribs and make your taste-buds dance.”
If you are looking for something a little more substantial, you may want to try one
of the daily specials. Monday boasts an all-you-can-eat chicken and waffle plate with
two sides for $6.95. Tuesday has a similar
offer for all-you-can-eat ham and green beans with tow sides at the same cost.
Wednesday gives lis all-you-can-eat chicken pot pie which fills the booths and
tables with hungry regulars. While Thursday has no all-you-can-eat offers,
it does boast two Italian classics. The lasagna and eggplant parmesan are both
highly recommended. Each filling bite will remind you why you decided to eat at the
Brownstone. The tossed salad and garlic bread only entice you come back. Friday
features seafood, including batter dipped fresh haddock, fresh catch of the day, and the
tantalizing .seafood chemise in sherry cream sauce and wrapped in a fillo dough. At
$13.95, it may be a little more expensive than most menu items, but seafood fans will
love it.
If you have set aside a little extra cash, then you may want to indulge in some of the
Brownstones steaks. I say the 8 oz. filet mignon with mushroom caps is worth a $17.95
price-tag for the juicy, cut of beef. I would even shell out the extra buck-fifty for Hie
added sautded onions and mushrooms. For the seafood inclined, save those precious
student dollars for the jumbo lump crab cakes. They were the only menu item Lukesh
identified as a personal favorite. I cannot think of a better referral than that.
For our vegetarian readers, steaks and seafood may not be a choice. While the variety
of the Brownstone menu offers many meat-free options, there are two I would like to
mention. The first is the Veggie sandwich. With an assortment of grilled marinated
vegetables, alfalfa sprouts and brownstone mayonnaise served on sourdough bread,
even a carnivore will sink their teeth into this delicious item for $4.95. The second is
the Brownstone Penne. At $9.95, this generous collection of sauteed tomatoes, garlic,
zucchini, mushrooms, onions, and broccoli with salad and garlic bread can easily be
two meals at a great price.
If you have somehow finished a meal at the Brownstone Cafd and still want dessert
(perhaps you were wise and saved half in a take-out box), you have another list of
options. I personally would stop you on two —the peanut butter and the chocolate
cream pies. Many come to the restaurant for the made-from-scratch strawberry pie.
The strawberry pie certainly a delicious seasonal favorite, however, it is the year round
cream pies that always make my mouth water. Made with a thin crust and a layer of
chocolate under a thick heap of creamy goodness, the cream pies are sure to please.
While preparing for this article, I offered a friend a slice in exchange for fixing my
computer. The man not only finished the task, he still considers himself in my debt
for offering the decadent pie slice. Whether for you or as a bribe, the desserts at the
Brownstone are worth a stop.
So, if you are bored with Stack’s Market
and want great food and services at even
better prices, the Brownstone Cafd is
a definite must for breakfast, lunch
or dinner. A mere five minutes from
campus, you owe it to yourself to try one
of Middletown’s best restaurants. Grab
a friend, hop in the car, and drive on
down to this historic landmark to enjoy
an excellent home-style meal. Be sure
to ask about the daily specials both on
and off the menu. The staff will be happy
to see you. As Lukesh says when asked
about Penn State Harrisburg students at
the caf6, “the more, the merrier.” Happy
eating everyone!
The Brownstone Cafd is located at 1 N.
Union Street, Middletown, PA 17057.
Parking is in rear of the building (across
from the Elk’s Theaater) or you may
utilize street parking.