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Underground Goth cult
rising to surface
by Nara Schoenberg
Chicago Tribune
Maybe the turning point came when Virgin
Megastores started selling those cute little vampire
girl lunchboxes, or when suburban kids started buy
ing their spiked collars at the mall, or when Kmart
trotted out corset-inspired T-shirts.
Maybe it came at last year's Oscars, when Gwyneth
Paltrow donned a gown that would have made
Morticia Addams proud.
But by late fall, when fashion magazines flirted with
ghoul-chic and stores offered clunky cross jewelry and
faux-vintage black lace, there could be no doubt.
Goth culture - long.the exclusive domain of self
styled misfits and defiant outcasts - is bubbling up
into the mainstream, making the black-clad, kohl-eyed
Goth faithful who have endured the taunts of the
"normals" for more than two decades something of a
hot new thing.
"It's kind of something that snuck up on us," says
Thom Svast, the sales manager at the Guess? store in
Chicago. This fall his store showcased an array of Goth
fashions, including black bell-sleeve shirts and flow
ing crushed-velvet coats.
The irony of pop culture's cool kids embracing out
cast fashion is not lost on the small but vital Goth
underground, whose response to the societal thumbs
up has mostly ranged from apathy to dismay.
At Web sites, Goths rail against exploitation and
consumerism or worry that "poseurs" with their judg
mental cliques will ruin an underground club scene
that has long regarded itself as a last refuge for those
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who are too creative, original or just plain strange to fit
in anywhere else.
John Wirtz, 27, of Riverside, 111., a librarian and
member of the Chicago Goth-punk band Anarchy (Butt)
& the An-R-Kids, says that, for true believers, Goth
offers a rich alternative lifestyle, complete with its own
music and literature.
To reduce Goth's many elements to a mass-produced
fashion statement, he says, "cheapens its meaning."
"I've seen people get really upset over it," says Wirtz,
who recalls one friend tore out a pile of pseudo-Goth
fashion spreads from mainstream magazines and used
them as fireplace kindling. Wirtz’s friend reserved spe
cial treatment for an image of pop princess Christina
Aguilera in a corset and leather.
"He lit her face on fire, and used that to light the rest
of it," Wirtz says.
Initially associated with bands such as Siouxsie &
the Banshees and Bauhaus, Goth grew out of the punk
movement in the late 1970 s and is often viewed as
punk's darkly romantic kid sister. Like punk, it cel
ebrates individuality and rejects the conformity of main
stream society, but where punk was political, Goth is
artistic, where punk was disgusted, Goth is amused.
Best known for its over-the-top fashion statements -
Count Dracula capes, black lipstick, fishnet stockings
- Goth is rooted in an appreciation of the melancholy,
the sinister and the forbidden. On the most basic level,
anyone who has shuddered with delight at a horror
movie or taken perverse pleasure in wallowing in a
bad mood has caught a Goth vibe.
But Goth also claims a noble literary tradition, with I
Gavin Baddeley, author of the new book "Goth Chic,"
tracing the movement back to the passionate - and some
times macabre - non-conformity of the 19th century
romantics.
When poet Percy Bysshe Shelley wrote, rapturously,
"I fall upon the thorns of life! I bleed!" he was having a
Goth moment.
Those who seek to explain the current popularity of
Goth fashion point to a number of factors, from the
recent fin de siecle gloom to the rise of Marilyn Manson,
a shock-rocker disavowed by many Goths.
It s also interesting to note that the Goth mini-trend
comes at a time when corporate America has gotten
into the habit of raiding the counterculture's closets.
With hip-hop clothes, extreme sports gear and rave
wear available at the local mall, could Goth be far be
hind?
Even the Columbine High School shootings in 1999,
which were carried out by students who wore Gothic
trench coats, may have contributed to the trend. While
the initial bad press was devastating to Goths, it also
galvanized some, leading them to explain their move
ment to the "normals" and to publicly disavow the
shootings and violence in general.
Among the more interesting Goth-Ed projects to have
surfaced post-Columbine: a young adult book, "Ev
erything You Need to Know About the Goth Scene,"
which "goes far to debunk negative stereotypes," ac
cording to Booklist.
Today, the Hot Topic Web site (hottopic.com) and
mall stores offer kids from the suburbs the chance to
buy fishnet stockings, studded collars and spooky me
dieval gowns.
Among the items marketed by the company: the
bondage-friendly Multi Ring Choker. "It's a classic!"
the Web sales copy says. "This black leather choker
has multiple metal rings all the way around. Buckle
closure."
Meanwhile, "Emily the Strange" lunchboxes, T-shirts
and accessories make the red and black aesthetic ac
cessible to the bubble-gum set.
Chicago Goth disc jockey Scary Lady Sarah, 35, says
she recently picked up two Goth-appropriate shirts at
Kmart, a corset-style lace number and a crocheted black
top.
"I was very, very surprised," she says.
Not all Goths are opposed to the marketing of Goth
products by corporate America.
"I think it's great because it means people are dress
ing better," says Scary Lady Sarah. "Maybe it will make
mainstream people less likely to criticize or harass
someone dressed Goth, if they think, ‘Oh, I've got that
same dress."'
But in the eyes of many Goths and observers of the
scene, mainstream interest is, at best, a mixed blessing.
"We (in the underground) advocate just a real indi
vidualism. To be accepted by the mainstream is to lose
credibility," says Mick Levine, co-owner of the Goth
friendly clothing store 99th Floor in Chicago.
And even for an underground subculture, Goth's
concern with authenticity is unusually strong, with in
siders bemoaning the presence of insincere weekend
Goths or debating endlessly _ and, to be fair, often hu
morously _ what makes for a genuine Goth. Among
the more amusing examples of the Gother-than-Thou
aspect of the subculture: the "Goth or Not" Web site,
where you can rate the authenticity of aspiring Goths
on a scale of from 1 to 10.
Other factors that make Goth a poor candidate for
cheerful cultural assimilation include the Goth mindset
itself. On the most basic level, Goth is about taking the
path less traveled, seeing beauty in what others dis
miss as ugliness, finding value in what most "normals"
consider pointless gloom.
”1 think it's better to sort of embrace your depres
sion, and admit that it's a feeling, just like any other
human feeling, rather than trying to discard it or dope
it up, which is what mainstream society likes to do,"
Wirtz says.